grdnguru's blog: Blossom End Rot - Scourge of the tomato

Posted on Aug 14, 2016 5:25 AM

"Failure of one thing is repaired by the success of another." Thomas Jefferson, Garden Book,1809


I don't think that there is anything more disheartening than putting in the planning, exerting the labor and tending to your tomatoes only to have them end with Blossom End Rot. Although this malady of the soil can occur on other plants such as squash, peppers and even watermelons, it is most associated with the tomato plant. That may be because the tomato is likely the most planted vegetable across all gardens.

Unlike Mr. Jefferson's outlook, to have it all end with a black, soft spot on the end of your tomatoes is an almost epic failure in most gardeners opinions. But, is there really anything a gardener can do to decrease the chances their tomatoes won't be beset by BER? Thankfully, the answer is that there are certain steps that can be implemented that will reduce the occurrence drastically.

In order to defeat this scourge, one has to understand the origin of it and the complex nature of the issue. Blossom End Rot is often mistaken as a fungus or pest issue by gardeners. If they see it, they will spray their plants with pesticides or fungicides to combat it. When in fact, BER is really an environmental soil issue. Once detected by sight on the fruit, it is almost impossible to correct the situation in time to save the rest of the crop.

Rot occurs under certain identifiable soil and weather conditions. Calcium deficiencies and long periods of wet weather are the main culprits that bring on rot. While one cannot control the weather, you can control the structure and mineral content of your gardening soil to manage it. As with any issue of the soil, it is best to start with a soil test. Preference here would be to submit your soil samples to the local extension service instead of using the do it yourself kits that are available. The extension services often will give you concrete steps to take which is based on their many years of experience.

If the soil test showed a calcium deficit, you will likely will be advised to add limestone to your soil. If there was too much, you will told to add gypsum. The test may even show you have the necessary calcium and nutrients for your plants. The rot may have occurred because your plants cannot access either due to other practices.

Whichever your results are, the next step is to build up your soil structure. As alluded to earlier, BER can be the result of your plants inability to take up the calcium and nutrients present in the soil that they need. They are blocked by other less noticeable issues. This condition is generally brought about by poorly draining soil, the use of high nitrogen fertilizers or salts and/or irregular watering practices.

Poorly draining soil can be best addressed by adding organic matter to your beds in the spring before planting begins. It can take the form of almost any amendment offered. Compost is perhaps the most used one. Either buy a OMRI rated compost or use your own if you practice composting. Others would be composted cow manure, mushroom compost or leaves. One caveat here. When buying commercially produced amendments, look for the OMRI certification to insure you have a clean product for your garden. No sense in introducing harmful pathogens into your garden.

Adding organic matter addresses a multitude of issues that can occur in your soil. It both allows your soil to hold the necessary moisture, and it also structurally allows it to drain the excess off. It adds nutrients to your soil that are slowly released to the plants too.

With tomatoes, an even watering pattern will go a long way to lessening the chances of Blossom End Rot. Uneven watering does not allow the roots to supply the fruit with the balanced nutrients required for successful maturity. A balance must be maintained between your watering and the rains you get.

Another step that can be taken is to mulch around your tomatoes. This results in the maintenance of a constant soil moisture and temperature. Mulch has the side benefit of also depressing the occurrence of disease transfer from the ground to the plant leaves when it rains or you water in the garden.

Another practice to stem BER is to rotate your crops each year so the plants are not being grown in the same plot year after year. Different plants deplete different nutrients throughout the growing season. Rotating also reduces the opportunity for diseases and pests to become prevalent in the garden.

One last trick that can be used is to spread dolomitic lime into the hole you are transplanting your tomato seedlings into. Then cover the lime with native soil and transplant the tomato. This will allow for a ready supply of calcium right at the root zone. You can also spread a little of the lime on the top of the soil for an added boost later.

These are the most effective known methods and practices any gardener can take to insure the best possible outcome for your tomatoes. Using any combination of these will significantly decrease the occurrence of Blossom End Rot in the garden. I hope this has been helpful and that it will ensure you great tomato crops in the future. Happy Gardening everyone.

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