Growing Fuchsias, the Basics

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Posted by @midnight21 on
Your fuchsias can be moved to their final positions, whether into containers, baskets, or open ground, as soon as they have developed a good root ball. Carefully remove the plant from the pot and check the roots. They should be white and should fill the pot evenly.

Depending on how you wish to display your fuchsias – for instance, in a hanging basket or as container plants -- removing the growing point will encourage the production of side shoots to produce a well proportioned plant. Trailing varieties will benefit from one pinch whereas a bush variety may require two or more. Pinching will delay flowering by approximately 8 weeks, but the improved display makes the wait well worthwhile!

Watering is perhaps the most important task during the growing season. There are two very simple but basic rules: Never allow the plants to dry out and never allow the plant to stand in waterlogged conditions for any length of time. Overwatering can result in flower and leaf drop. (Water standing for a very short period in a tray or plant saucer will not cause harm.) Aim to water in the evening and to keep the soil evenly moist. In very hot weather, an overhead spray will be beneficial.

Fuchsias are fast growing plants, and regular feeding will be necessary to sustain them, starting with a balanced feed applied weekly approximately six weeks after potting. Large plants, especially those planted in baskets, may be fed more often to ensure a long flowering period.

Botrytis (Grey Mould) and Rust are the two main diseases affecting fuchsias. A well-grown plant seldom succumbs, so the best defence is to pay careful attention to growing conditions, watering, feeding, etc., and to inspect your plants frequently for signs of disease. If treatment is required, a number of treatments are available

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Always admired but never tried by blue23rose Feb 23, 2016 9:50 AM 4

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