New Thoughts on Planting Trees and Shrubs

Articles→Gardening with Nature

By Charlie Nardozzi

Fall is a great time to plant trees and shrubs. In warm regions, the weather has cooled, so newly planted trees and shrubs have time to get their roots established during the cool, wet winter and be ready for new growth in spring. In cold areas, fall planting works well, too. As long as the tree or shrub is planted a few months before the ground freezes, the roots will have time to start growing into the native soil. Trees and shrub roots will continue to grow as long as the soil temperature is above 40F. For broadleaf and needled evergreen plants in very cold winter areas, it's a good idea to create a burlap shelter around them after planting to lessen the drying effects of winter winds. Because evergreens still transpire moisture in winter and the roots haven't totally gotten established yet, needles and leaves can dry out and die due to lack of moisture. Burlap barriers and anti-desiccant sprays help reduce this effect. Just don't let the burlap touch the leaves or it may wick moisture away from the plant, enhancing the desiccation.

New Ways to Plant

The recommendations on how to plant trees and shrubs has been updated with new research and techniques. The main idea is to create an environment similar to what happens in a forest where trees and shrubs thrive. Plants grow in native soils without compost, fertilizer and other additives. Unless your soil is very heavy clay, dusty sand, or very compacted, adding rich soil amendments to the planting hole only slows the progress of roots growing into the native soil. By adding a rich soil medium, the roots stay in the artificial hole you've made. Instead, backfill with native soil, then water in the roots as you add the soil so the roots get used to the native soil immediately.

Also, I've noticed when planting in clay soil and adding amendments, that it's easy to create a bowl that holds too much water in the planting hole. I've killed trees planting this way because the water drainage wasn't good enough and the roots rotted.

It's best to dig a hole 3 times the diameter of the container or rootball and exactly as deep (not deeper than the container), unless you have clay soil, in which case you might raise up the soil into a mound to help with water drainage.

Check The Roots

Another technique that goes against my earlier horticultural training is to check and prune the roots of your plants before planting. Landscapers and arborists have shown many cases when trees and shrubs have been strangled by their own roots as they age. In the nursery, trees and shrubs grow in plastic containers or burlap balls. Over time the roots start circling the container and root ball. If not corrected before planting, those roots will continue circling in the ground. It may take several years, but eventually those roots will get large enough to strangle the plant causing it to die. I've seen too many good sized trees and shrubs that were looking great, die suddenly from this phenomena.

The solution is before planting, wash off all the soil from the purchased tree or shrub, even evergreens, to examine the roots. Tease out and prune any circling roots so they are pointing away from the crown. Then plant as I described.

Protecting New Plants

Once planted, mulch with bark or wood mulch to help maintain the soil moisture. Use gator bags around newly planted trees and shrubs to apply moisture slowly over time, especially if you have a dry fall. This reduces the amount of work and the need to remember to water.

Usually it's best not to stake and tie trees. The movement of trees swaying in the breeze helps the roots grab hold of the native soil faster. Of course, if you live in an extremely windy area or your tree is very tall and spindly, you may want to stake and tie them for one season. If so, always attach the tie loosely to the trunk so the tree can still rock some in the wind. Also, place a tree guard around young plants to prevent mice, vole and rabbit damage in winter. If necessary, use a mesh or wire fence to prevent deer damage.

Growing Bulbs Webinar

Fall is for planting more than just trees and shrubs. I'll be offering a Growing Spring Flowering Bulbs Webinar on September 24th at 7pm. You don't have to be present to get the webinar, since I'll be recording it and sending it out to all those who signed up afterward. Check it out for more information.

About Charlie Nardozzi
Thumb of 2020-06-04/Trish/0723fdCharlie Nardozzi is an award winning, nationally recognized garden writer, speaker, radio, and television personality. He has worked for more than 30 years bringing expert gardening information to home gardeners through radio, television, talks, tours, on-line, and the printed page. Charlie delights in making gardening information simple, easy, fun and accessible to everyone. He's the author of 6 books, has three radio shows in New England and a TV show. He leads Garden Tours around the world and consults with organizations and companies about gardening programs. See more about him at Gardening With Charlie.
This article is categorized under:
Member Login:

( No account? Join now! )

Today's site banner is by Zoia and is called "Pink Shell Azalea"

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.