The Q&A Archives: How do I Prune Persimmon trees, Kiwi, and Mango?

Question: This is the third time I have requested information from you about the proper pruning of Persimmon, Kiwi and Mango trees. In the past my questions have been answered in 12 hours. I hope you can get back to me on this one, I've been trying to get a response from you for about 10 days now. Would you please let me know even if you don't know or don't care. I'll look elsewhere. You've always been Very helpful in the past. Looking for some guidance in pruning Persimmon trees mainly. Also interested in any info. you have to share on pruning Kiwi and Mango as well. Thank you.

Answer: First, let me apologize for our lack of communication. I remember answering your questions about persimmon and mango trees so perhaps there was a problem with your email address? Or, things might have just gotten swallowed up in cyberspace. In any event, here are the answers to your questions:
Pruning persimmon trees is necessary to help them develop a strong framework of main branches. This is best done while the tree is young. Otherwise the fruit, which is borne at the tips of the branches, may be too heavy and cause breakage. A regular program of removal of some new growth and heading others each year will improve structure and reduce alternate bearing. An open vase system is probably best. Even though the trees grow well on their own, persimmons can be pruned heavily as a hedge, as a screen, or to control size. They even make a nice espalier.

Healthy mango trees require little pruning, although pruning to stimulate new growth promotes uniform annual bearing. Removing some flower clusters during a heavy bloom year may also alleviate alternate bearing. Mangos may be pruned to control size in late winter or early spring without a loss of fruit. Sap and debris can cause dermatitis in sensitive individuals so be sure to wear gloves and long sleeves when pruning your mango.

Kiwis require special training and pruning to produce good crops. When planted, the vines should be pruned back to 4 or 5 buds. From these a main stem should be selected and staked to grow to the top of the arbor or trellis, usually 6-7? high. The trellis should be strong to support the heavy future fruit loads. Pruning should be done well before growth starts in the spring to prevent vine bleeding. Remove most of the wood that fruited the previous year and any twisted or broken canes. Retain vigorous one-year-old canes that have not fruited and are well spaced (about every 10-15 inches) along the leaders and form a single canopy layer. Prune these back to the first eight buds. Where vigorous one-year-old canes have not developed or vegetative vigor is reduced, retain the fruiting arms that fruited the previous year by cutting back to eight buds past the last fruit bearing leaf axil. A small percentage of spurs are also retained for fruit production. These are short laterals that have terminated their growth back close to the leaders. They are produced usually when strong shoots are cut back.

Hope this information is helpful!

« Click to go to the homepage

» Ask a question of your own

Q&A Library Searching Tips

  • When singular and plural spellings differ, as in peony and peonies, try both.
  • Search terms are not case sensitive.

Today's site banner is by ge1836 and is called "Sempervivum Henry Carrevon"