In the world of vegetable growing, gourds have earned a secure niche and have been cultivated for ages. Gourds dating from 7000 B.C. have been found in Mexico, which makes them one of the oldest plants in cultivation in the New World. They are not, however, native plants. Originally from Africa, it is thought that gourds made their way to foreign shores by floating across the ocean.
These members of the cucumber, melon, and squash family are grown for their decorative and utilitarian qualities rather than for their edible ones. The best known and most versatile are the hard-shelled gourds (Lagenaria siceraria), so named because their shells dry to a hard surface that can be treated for many different uses. These familiar, durable gourds are used around the world to make everything from containers and utensils to water dippers, smoking pipes, musical instruments, and works of art.
There are four main types of hard-shelled gourds. Basket gourds have large, bulbous bases and no neck. Bottle gourds develop two distinct bulbous ends with a constriction between them. Dipper gourds feature long, thin necks and a small bulblike base at the blossom end. Snake or siphon gourds have long, tubular necks and no bulbous base. Within each of these types are many variations, each with its own particular shape. Before you plant, decide which is the right kind for the uses you have in mind.
In cool-summer climates, preheat the soil with black plastic mulch four weeks before your last frost date, when you can set out seedlings. Start seedlings in individual pots indoors at the same time you set out the plastic.
Where summers are warmer and longer, sow seeds outdoors after all danger of frost has passed, in full sun and in soil amended with compost or manure. Sow two seeds in hills spaced 8 feet apart, or sow in rows with plants spaced 4 feet apart. The seeds have particularly thick skins; to hasten germination, nick them with a file before planting to help water penetrate the seed coat.
All gourd vines will do best if planted in full sun and rich soil. They need a consistent supply of water throughout the growing season; mulch will help to conserve water and keep down weeds around these shallow rooted plants. Give plants one or two side-dressings of a complete fertilizer over the course of the season, but hold off on feeding at the end of the season and reduce watering as the gourds begin to harden their shells.
Some gourds, such as the bottle and dipper types, grow best on trellises. Let the vines climb naturally, and position the fruits so they can hang unobstructed. Trellised vines are not only attractive, but they produce straighter and cleaner fruits than vines grown on the ground. Be sure the trellis is sturdy, especially in windy areas, since an individual plant can be huge--vining up to 40 feet.
Some of the heavier basket-type gourds may need to be supported with a sling; old pantyhose are an inexpensive means of support. On the other extreme, some kinds of mini gourds can be grown in containers. Although smaller, they're still aggressive growers, so you'll need to be more diligent about trellising and watering.
On a trellis, remove all the side shoots, and train the main stem up the trellis post. Once it reaches the top of the trellis, clip the main stem and allow the laterals to form and fill out the top of the trellis.
Gourds on trellises are easy to shape by tying soft, stretchy strings around young fruit and then bending or constricting them by applying slight pressure. Some gourds can be placed in molds or jars and will take the shape of the container. Be careful to select the right-sized container for the mature size of the gourd, or the container-bound fruit will be damaged.
Hard-shelled gourds produce large white flowers that open at night. It's not clear which insects pollinate these flowers, but if your baby gourds are shriveling and dropping off the plant, you may need to hand-pollinate the flowers in the evening shortly after they open. Some growers like to let only a few gourds set and then snip off all others, since the first fruits to set produce the largest gourds with the thickest skins. In cool climates, snipping off late-setting fruits will redirect the plant's energy to maturing the first few fruits before frost.
Pests and diseases that affect gourds are similar to those afflicting other squash family crops; they include downy and powdery mildew, cucumber beetles, vine borers, and aphids. Generally, the techniques and products recommended for controlling these pests on cucumbers and melons will also be effective on gourds.
Mature gourds can withstand frost, but it may affect the skin color. After curing, gourds harvested before frost tend to be tan or mahogany, while those harvested after frost will take on a curly maple appearance. It's best to pick the gourds as soon as the vines are dead (especially on trellised vines that may not be able to support heavy fruits), and to move the gourds indoors to a dry, well-ventilated place for curing and drying.
To hasten the drying process, slice off the top of the gourd right after harvest, and scrape out as much of the seedy pulp as you can without harming the shell. Then fill the inside with water, and let sit for a week. The remaining flesh will turn gelatinous and mucky but will be easier to scrape out.
Each of the surface treatments described below requires little skill; only a few basic hand tools and some supplies, available from a craft or hardware store, are necessary. Before applying any surface treatment, be certain that the gourd is properly cured.
Make a leaf bowl by cutting a leaf design out of the gourd with a hand saw. Scrape out the pulp, and sand the soft interior to a smooth finish, then cover it with a decoupage of leaf designs cut from decorative tissue paper. Stain both the inside and outside surfaces before varnishing the whole bowl.
Apply delicate gold patterns to gourds with a pen that produces a fine, opaque line for maximum coverage and control. For added effect, glue gold-colored cord around the rim.
Create a burnished look to your gourd by first darkening it with black shoe dye, then covering it with gold shoe polish. As a final touch, add black leather trim and gold beads.
Make a simple pitcher by staining a gourd with white shoe polish, which highlights the natural patterns on the gourd's surface. Then glue nylon cord around the top rim and the bottom, leaving enough between the top and bottom to form a handle. The cord at the bottom acts as a base.
Make a pitcher from two gourds: a bottle and a dipper, trimmed with a crafting knife and handsawn to fit together. File and sand any rough edges, glue the parts together and fill in any remaining seam with putty. Create a coppery surface using an acrylic metallic paint rubbed with black shoe polish.
Use marking pens to decorate gourds. This allows for flexibility, freeform design, and many color choices. Unfortunately marking pens, even permanent kinds, will fade over time.
To learn about growing and using the many different kinds of ornamental gourds, consult Gourds in Your Garden: A Guidebook for Home Gardeners, by Ginger Summit (Hillway Press, 1998; $20); and The Complete Book of Gourd Craft, by Ginger Summit and Jim Widess (Lane Books, 1996; $27).
Photography by Sabin Gratz/National Gardening Association and Suzanne DeJohn/National Gardening Association
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