Hi everyone,

I'm new to gardening so this question may seem silly. Approximately 4-5 years ago a relative of mine composted a lot of things in a small area of my garden, and I've noticed that anything that gets planted there (fruits, veggies, flowers), gets eaten up or dies in some way. There are a LOT of ants in the area, and I'm not sure what else, but I would like to garden in that area in the spring/summer time (ideally plant a climbing rose and some veggies), but I'm worried. I don't think the area has any problem with drainage. Any ideas on what might be going on? Tips on amending the soil? I do prefer to garden organically.


Thank you!

What's eating the plants? Bugs or deer? I don't think ants are the problem.

Hello neighbor and welcome.
Can you identify what materials were composted? If contaminated items, find another area to garden in.
If the compost was good stuff, you could distribute the composted area of soil with a pitchfork, and spread it around the garden. Breaking up the soil will distribute the ants, too. Level the area and next Spring you will be ready for gardening.

I agree with Kate, keep the soil loose and the ants will leave.

Rubi, no deer are eating the plants. It seems like there are a ton of slugs, worms, and ants.

Kathy, thank you for welcoming me
The materials composted were onion peels, cabbage, the ends of green beans, garlic peels, and egg shells. I'm fearful of contaminating other areas of my small garden if I distribute the composted soil. Do you think there wasn't enough carbon/brown materials composted? If I add more brown materials (egg carton, brown paper, etc.) now, do you think the soil would be better?

Thank you oneeyeluke and Kathy for the tip on breaking up the soil to keep the ants away. I will try that.

Do you think there's any soil borne disease? Should I be adding any fungicide or insecticide (e.g. neem oil, dish soap, etc.) to the soil?

I wouldn't use fungicides on anything I grow to eat.

No chemicals to vegetable garden soil. Remember - your soil is the foundation to healthy plants & healthy you. Year after year, build your soil with healthy amendments and your plants will thrive.
The previous compost sounds fine. Those items would not cause plants to die.
Take some time this winter to study soil care. That subject would include topics like: composting, cover crops, crop rotation, tilth, soil testing, proper fertilization, good drainage and much more.
You'll spend a lifetime building up your soil. I correlate good soil to a bank savings account. An investment in the future. When you dig in your soil, it should have a healthy smell to it - I call it a 'sweet fresh soil smell'. If the ground isn't aerated well & compressed, it will smell sour.
Below, Spring 2019, we were working the ground for planting. This was the 31st year I have worked this particular 100'x100' plot.

KraftyNutkin, after 4 to 5 years there should be no trace of the materials buried, unless you live in a desert--- I am not aware of any in Michigan. Been burying grass clippings and kitchen scraps for over 40 years. I include meat, fish, and bones; items not recommended for composting due to them being attractive to mice and other animals. I just did a deeper hole for them. Everything gone in 6 months, except bones.

Worms will eat root crops, and ants will eat many things including some plants. My guess is neither is your problem.

Then we come to slugs. They eat almost all plants, especially those a gardener desire. They mow down new seedlings in a few hours, and climb up and vegetables feet above the ground. Plant nurseries, Lowes, Homedepot, and Ace Hardware all sell baits for slugs and their friend, snails. I suggest buying one of the many products for control of slugs/snails. Non chemical treatments can be found on the web, these include beer ( it's a waste of good beer). Another non chemical treatment is getting some ducks or chickens, both eat slugs/snails--they also eat emerging seedlings.

Welcome. No silly questions.

I have to disagree with Steve. I say no to chemicals. No slug bait. I don't have a vegetable garden at present, but when I did, I never experienced slugs doing the kind of damage he described. And I don't see them doing damage in my perennial bed, which is what I garden now.

Worms are great for the soil. They help to break it up. If you have worms in the compost pile then that's a good sign.

Just keep amending the soil. Might hurt the pocketbook at first, but it's a good long term investment.

Keep us posted and don't be shy about asking questions.

TFC, I agree with your post, and thus provided you with a Thumbs Up.

However, in the Pacific Northwest, slugs are often 1/2" in diameter and can extend themselves to 5-6". I have experienced seedlings mowed down overnight by slugs/snails (identified by their shiney trail) and found slugs/snails climbing tomato and cucumber plants. Today after 3 days of rain, I hand picked 5 slugs near my gladiolus--Was in process of removing staiks for winter. All were small ones that only extended themselves to less than 1". After picking them up, I smashed them with my shoe. To control slugs, often found entering the flower/vegetable gardens from the lawn grass, I use: hand removal followed by placing them in a trash can/smashing them with my foot, cutting them in half with gardening shears or other tools, and use a minimal chemical slug bait--I also watch the birds, crows & robins, feed on them on summer afternoons. I never use beer.

If you reread my post, you can see I also included searching the web for non chemical remedies to slugs. Unlike many, I try to answer gardeners with questions with all solutions I am aware of. For this specific gardener, KraftyNutkin, no other responder provided any reference to what I considered the most likely cause of her problem, I.e., slugs.

My opinion related to chemical controls can may not be shared by others, but I believe chemicals (in moderation) are useful in gardening; just as most believe gasoline is useful in driving an automobile, especially when driving in the western part of the country.

P.s. I have never lived in Michigan, only in New York, California, Florida, Colorado, and Washington. All have different gardening problems and rewards.

Regarding slug baits
https://extension.oregonstate....

I agree with others here who think the composting is not likely the cause of plant problems in that space.

Sally, read your reference. I have been useing a cereal type meteldehyde type bait that I have had for over 10 yrs. Will switch to the iron type next box, probably 10 yrs from now. With the small amount I use, I only worry about its effects on birds. Great post!!

I would expect fungus in the soil at a minimum. The trichoderma innoculates can fight that. I would suspect spinosad could safely remove insects. I would be wYchful for signs of nematodes but only growing some specimen plants might show the root galling associated with them.

My apologies, Steve. I had no idea that slugs could be so big, etc. It's giving me the creeps to even think about them. I do agree that using beer is a waste of good or bad beer. We were drinking German beer so that's what we used and wouldn't you just know that our German dog drank it as soon as our backs were turned.

Interesting article, Sally. Since it mentioned Sluggo, I'm surprised it didn't mention Sluggo Plus. I have some around here somewhere and if I find it I will definitely look at the ingredients.

I was puzzled when I read, 'Liquid slug bait, registered for ornamental use only . . .' Why would it be registered for ornamental use? Seems odd. (Yes, I do understand a bit about the intricacies regarding govt. labeling.)

@KraftyNutkin - any chance that you're seeing cut worms as opposed to grub worms? Probably doesn't matter since they both are evil, wicked and destructive IMHO. I suggest that you read up on beneficial nematodes. There are many types of nematodes, most of which you don't want to have hanging around. But there are several types of beneficial nematodes that are safe (to you and your garden) but will kill grubs and various other nasties. It's very important to purchase the right type of beneficial nematodes and apply as instructed. They can be purchased by mail but if you have a local nursery with knowledgable staff, check with them first.

I'm still confused about your compost pile and where you are or want to be gardening. Are you trying to plant directly into the compost pile?