The Tomatoes are Yellow Brandywine, Black Brandywine, and Cherokee Purple.

The seeds were actually 12 years old, stored well, because I take care of my seeds.
They were germinated in CoCo Coir..
I have been feeding them basic Miracle Gro for veggies, I have not given over 400 ppm's per feeding, and my water is 50 ppm's...
I did add a little calcium nitrate and magnesium to them to see if it would help, but it did not, I only used a little...
I added 3 tsp per gallon of hydrogen peroxide to them trying to make sure there were no fungus gnat larvae in the miracle grow potting soil that I transplanted them into.
The Black Brandywine could be leaf curling from the peroxide, but I am not sure this leaf curling I cannot figure out, I think maybe they are just hungry, but I have not seen leaves curl like this from a deficiency..
I am thinking about switching the nutes to MasterBlend, as I just ordered 25lbs of it... Does great in my hydoponics...

I just need to figure out how many ppm's they are needing, and how often I should feed them.

What I'm seeing in the worst looking ones is simply a lack of water..... they look very dry. I think you're overthinking the fertilizer bit. And your climate should permit you to plant these out. That should help them tremendously. I'm in a similar zone, mine have been out two weeks.

That may be the case, but when I water they wilt/droopy leaf look does not change.
And the one leaves that are curling upwards are getting dry/dying.
I actually already started hardening them off, the 15th I think was when the Farmers Almanac said we typically have had our last frost by.

What is happening with the Cherokee Purple in the last pic started with just those plants only, while the other types were fine..
They got so bad I tossed them, watering them never stopped the droopy curling leaves.
I don't think I have overfed them, at one point I thought I overwatered them, because as soon as the pot is light feeling and the top is dry I water them..
I'll get them outside ASAP, just want to harden them off a bit more, the wind has been bad here the last few days, so much so yesterday it almost broke off a limb on my bean plant, I have it splinted, and it will heal up ok...

Thanks for the response, I'll try watering them more, hopefully the CoCO Coir is just drying out too fast,

Thanks for the response, it is appreciated.

You know, I've seen some complaints about that stuff drying out too fast. I'm thinking once you get them planted outside they will be ok. You must be north of me, I'm not good at geography, our last frost date is April 15.

Your right, had a long night and did not get much sleep, it is April 15th.

When you water, is the soil absorbing the water? You can tell by the pot weight gain after you water. And stop fertilizing. Miracle Gro potting soil contains fertilizer and you are adding more on top of that.

When I water yes the soil absorbs it, and I stop as soon as a little drains out the bottom, then I wait till the top is totally dry, and the pot is light feeling, I do not wait till I see a wilting/droopy plant.'
I just transplanted them into the MG Soil on the 14th and have only fed them once since then, and I kept the ppm's pretty low.
The peroxide I used was stabilized 3%, I have since ordered 12% food grade non stabilized in case I ever need it for gnats larvae in soil, or algae in hydro..
I thought the MG Soil had very little nutrients, for NPK it has .21 .11 .16, it is the Moisture Control soil...

Here are some better pics of leaves having isues, the leave tends to be upper leaves, which tells me it is either nute burn, or some non mobile deficiency.

I appreciate the responses, I am trying to get these plants healthy, I hate seeing a sickly plant!

I grow vegetables in Miracle Gro potting soil. There are enough nutrients to last the entire season without me adding more. Fertilizer for plants is highly overrated - they just don't need as much as we have been led to believe. I'm not sure why you are concerned about ppm's but, I think you are missinterpreting the nutrient value of the MG, by a long shot.

You don't need to water with Hydrogen peroxide to get rid of gnats because you will never have any unless you start overwatering. When mixed with water, Hydrogen peroxide breaks down into water and an extra oxygen molecule. You might kill a few things in the water you poured the Hydrogen peroxide into but, the reaction is over a few minutes. And, if you use it before the reaction is over, you will damage the plant roots. The length of the reaction depends upon the content of the water (fertilizer affects it).

I always thought tomatoes needed more fertilizer than listed on the MG bag,
MG for tomatoes says it has 18-18-21 NPK, and suggest feeding every one to two weeks.
I am familiar with growing other plants based on ppm's per the size of the plant, I have charts that show what ppm tomatoes, lettuce, beans, etc need based on their size..
I have also heard with MG Soil some only feed twice during the grow, once midway, and again towards the end..

I'll save my peroxide for the hydro/algae issue, since the second stage for my plants has to have some nutes in the water I get algae on top of the rockwool, the peroxide helps minimize the algae in the reservoir.

So does it look like nute burn?
I never added a lot, not based on what carts say, so I don't know...
Maybe I need to try some of the newer seeds I have on hand, I am dealing with 12yr old seeds...
Not that I see how that would matter, but who knows..

Old seeds would simply not sprout. It looks like fertilizer burn to me.

Yeah, I had doubts my 12yr old seeds from 2008 would germinate, but I had a high germination rate with them, because I kept them in ziplock bags, then in a small box to not allow light in, and put them in the crisper, they stayed there for 12 years.

I'll stop feeding them, because I think you are right, I appreciate the feedback, and will post again if they bounce back..

I look forward to updates. Please add them to this thread so everyone will know the back story.

You know, I've never been exact about fertilizing my tomato plants. When I plant them outside, I put a small hand full of bone and blood meal and a 4-5-4 organic fertilizer in each hole. After they start blooming, I top dress with a little bit more of the fertilizer. I fertilize again when fruit is mid way through development. Always worked fine for me.

I think I remember @oneeyeluke posting in detail about fertilizing, hydroponics, ppm.. if I am right he might see notification and have some input.
(if I am wrong, I apologize, Luke)

I have had them outside for a while, fertilized once, but may need a little more soon as I see some plants lower leaves are showing a little N deficiency, but other than they they are loving the natural sun, and good ole rain water.Got the rest of the garden going in the hydro setup, a little later than wanted because we had some stuff to dial in to get it just right..







This should be the Yellow Brandywine, it leaves look different than the others..



The Black Brandywine is really healthy.

Oh, they look great!

Thanks, looks like they just needed some TLC from Mother Nature.
The first pic I am pretty sure is the Cherokee Purple, I had them labelled but I did not transfer the labels over once I put them outside, now I am going by memory of what each looks like, the Yellow is easy to make out, she has a way different looking leaf structure compared to the others.

I needed to restock my seeds, but I won't be since there will probably be some cross pollination going on.

With OPs there can be. I prefer to buy fresh seed each year because I grow my tomatoes so close together.

Well so much for a good harvest from the Black Brandywine plant in the 3rd pic, a deer ate a lot of the top of the plants leaves off, also ate all my the leaves off of a bush bean plant I had, left the beans though, lol

Got one of these, hopefully it will keep the deer away, and it won't harm them..
Although as mad as I am about the tomatoes I could go for some deer stew, and jerky...

https://www.acehardware.com/de...