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Jan 11, 2021 11:28 AM CST
Thread OP
Name: Alex
Rockford, Illinois (Zone 5b)
Early December, some friends were kind enough to let me take some cuttings from their apples trees (I also got some seeds, just in case). I left them in the garage for a while to callus off, and as I was bringing them in I noticed they had quite the white fungal/mold infection. I threw away the worst offenders, and as I was putting them into their rooting pots I soaked them with fungicide/water mix and again sprayed the soil with it, and this worked for one tub, but not the other.

I know this is a common ailment of apple trees, and learned my lesson of being more observant of which branches I cut off to be on the look out for the white stuff that was no doubt present when I took the cuttings from the trees, but essentially my question is what do I do now? My fungicide treatments have worked only partially, so do I just keep at it? Is using that much fungicide on the cutting bad for them?
I did take some pictures, but it's surprisingly difficult stuff to photograph, this fungus:


Thumb of 2021-01-11/RookiePresent/4ce89a Thumb of 2021-01-11/RookiePresent/060a92

I have them in a ~1/4-the-way-filled 5 gallon planter pot, with the top covered with clear wrap. I also have a light on them, but it is indirect and bounces off the ceiling first. Maybe taking the wrapping off would keep less moisture in and help with the fungus? I've never gotten hardwood cuttings to root, so I'm unsure of what's right or wrong, and I'm just spit balling here.
Thanks in advance!
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Jan 11, 2021 12:44 PM CST
Name: Daisy I
Reno, Nv (Zone 6b)
Not all who wander are lost
Garden Sages Plant Identifier
I looked on the internet and found one reference saying its not impossible to root an apple cutting but the success rate is extremely low. So I dragged out my copy of "The Reference Manual of Woody Plant Propagation" by Dirr and Heuser. It covers growing from seed, grafting methods and tissue culture but doesn't say a word about growing an apple from cuttings. That could be because its not a viable option for commercial growers or because they don't consider it an option at all.

The seeds will be an interesting mix of all the genetics going into the makeup of that particular tree plus whatever pollinated it. The chances of duplicating your friend's tree without grafting is low but keep at it. Remember, not impossible means its happened. I use a biofungacide. Instead of being synthetic, it contains a live fungus or bacterium as the active ingredient. It turns into a competition between whatever is killing your cuttings and the microbes in the fungicide. The fungicide microbes outcompete the killing microbes. This is a simple explanation but if you want to read more....

https://ucanr.edu/blogs/blogco...

Don't breather it!
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and proclaiming...."WOW What a Ride!!" -Mark Frost

President: Orchid Society of Northern Nevada
Webmaster: osnnv.org
Avatar for RookiePresent
Jan 12, 2021 11:05 AM CST
Thread OP
Name: Alex
Rockford, Illinois (Zone 5b)
DaisyI said:I looked on the internet and found one reference saying its not impossible to root an apple cutting but the success rate is extremely low. So I dragged out my copy of "The Reference Manual of Woody Plant Propagation" by Dirr and Heuser. It covers growing from seed, grafting methods and tissue culture but doesn't say a word about growing an apple from cuttings. That could be because its not a viable option for commercial growers or because they don't consider it an option at all.

The seeds will be an interesting mix of all the genetics going into the makeup of that particular tree plus whatever pollinated it. The chances of duplicating your friend's tree without grafting is low but keep at it. Remember, not impossible means its happened. I use a biofungacide. Instead of being synthetic, it contains a live fungus or bacterium as the active ingredient. It turns into a competition between whatever is killing your cuttings and the microbes in the fungicide. The fungicide microbes outcompete the killing microbes. This is a simple explanation but if you want to read more....

https://ucanr.edu/blogs/blogco...

Don't breather it!


I've never heard of biofungicides, but that sounds like an excellent idea! Thank you for the suggestion, I will look more into it.
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Jan 12, 2021 12:00 PM CST
Name: Ken Isaac
Salt Lake City, Utah, USA (Zone 7a)
RookiePresent said: the white stuff that was no doubt present when I took the cuttings from the trees.....

do I just keep at it? Is using that much fungicide on the cutting bad for them?

In my experience, the fungi (such as gray mold, etc) is far tougher to control with hardwood cuttings than with green (softwood) cuttings with leaves. And, the plant reproduction process is one of the very coolest of gardening experiences to witness because it's actually a battle between TWO of the fundamental principles of nature: one, the battle for a species to reproduce itself to save its race vs. the battle for nature to reclaim itself-to break down decaying wastes (via actions by bacteria and fungi) to insure future generations of plant have soil and nutrients for growth. It's a race you witness with your cuttings.

There's no secret answers to your dilemma of fungi... but some hints.
As the EPA states about household fungus (mold and mildew) problems
EPA.gov said:
Molds can thrive on any organic matter, including clothing, leather, paper, and the ceilings, walls and floors of homes...

So, no surprise that fungi spores that found your leftover hotdog buns, carefully still sealed in their bag, or your mac-n-cheese leftovers, sealed below plastic wrap in the back of the fridge, both grow mold when forgotten. So it goes with your 5 gal pot of 'leftover' apple sticks.

Fungi spores are in our environment.
Fungus growth on cuttings to me seems to involve three things, though: one) original source of the fungus, like a cutting, potting soil, etc, two) decaying organics to grow on, which 'feed' the fungus- like decaying bark on the cutting itself or organic material in the potting mix, and Three) high moisture.

The underlying item, of course, as Daisyl carefully examined before, is your success may not hinge on any of these things, but on the actual apple trees heredity, its DNA programming. Will it set roots and grow BEFORE ITS TISSUES succumb to decomposition? I haven't tried apple, but my research indicated apricot hardwood cuttings were similarly difficult to apple, which I have tried, but wasn't successful. Your experience may differ!

My suggestions:
1) Never give up! As I said, rooting cuttings is actual a very cool! Try easier hardwoods next such as figs, grapes or roses. Or softwoods next spring?
You said you attempted to form root callus... I would be interested in if you were successful in getting a callus on your apple?
2) remember that fungus spores are everywhere: on the surface of the bark, on your cutting tool blade, on the surface of your plastic pot, in the potting soil, on your hands, your watering can, etc. Sterilize what you can in advance, but unless you have a "clean room" as used in micro-propagation, you'll have fungi. Sanitizing your hard surfaces, both from bacteria and fungi (carefully and safely!) may help.
Simply, this may mean wiping cutting tool surfaces and hard surfaces such as plastic pots with rubbing alcohol or bleach water (as sterilizing hopefully kills both bacteria AND fungi, while 'fungicide' usually just kills fungi, or a specific fungus, or fungi at a specific growth stage. (See article referenced below.) Using 'soilless' potting media such as vermiculite or perlite, and monitoring humidity carefully are part of the 'simple' methods.
3) more advanced steps might include a 'cutting dip' of fungicide or dusting with a bulb dust before beginning storage for callus growth or when sticking for rooting. When fungi becomes a problem, fungicide applications help mitigate fungi already growing. You need to research carefully hese advanced methods for your safety and the best plant health. As noted by Daisyl, there isn't a lot of research showing how to be successful with apple hardwood.

Regardless, if you choose to continue fungicide use, here is a good article on fungicides, including "mode of action" and a notes on saftey, and another on sterilization practices.

Fungicide use:
https://hortnews.extension.ias...

Cleaning & disinfection:
https://extension.umn.edu/plan...

I highly suggest the sources you include are from university or professional sources, and counter the million "how to" blogs your google search will show, or even information from me.

That said, here is the 'questionable' information from me. I've never rooted apple, but tried really, really hard with a favorite apricot that the internet said wouldn't work. It didn't!

I use dusting / spray formulations of Sulphur, along with RELIANT systemic fungicide as a spray and dip for some of my cuttings and bulb propagation and storage. For sanitization, for years I've used a mild bleach solution or rubbing alcohol for sanitization of tools and pots. I've used both vermiculite and perlite, but have recently switched to coconut coir as my medium. (Never dirt or compost, both are just too dirty for cuttings, divisions or seedlings.) One time I tried the "sterilize your dirt in your oven" from some gardening blog... The procedure was quickly banned in my household.)
In all cases, I'm trying to use 'least toxic' measures for myself and my family, as we want indoor air clean of both chemicals AMD fungi spores.

What about cinnamon and all those other 'natural' methods? Give them a try if you wish, I just can't say they worked for me.

By all means, update this thread with what works, or what didn't, then we all know a little more.
You could try simple grafting. Plant those apple seeds, wait a few years, when new trunk is the size of a pencil, cut it with a razor blade (v-cut) inserting a greenwood cutting from the apple?
That's my new plan with my apricot....
Last edited by kenisaac Jan 12, 2021 12:37 PM Icon for preview
Avatar for RookiePresent
Jan 12, 2021 6:32 PM CST
Thread OP
Name: Alex
Rockford, Illinois (Zone 5b)
kenisaac said:

My suggestions:
1) Never give up! As I said, rooting cuttings is actual a very cool! Try easier hardwoods next such as figs, grapes or roses. Or softwoods next spring?
You said you attempted to form root callus... I would be interested in if you were successful in getting a callus on your apple?

I use dusting / spray formulations of Sulphur, along with RELIANT systemic fungicide as a spray and dip for some of my cuttings and bulb propagation and storage. For sanitization, for years I've used a mild bleach solution or rubbing alcohol for sanitization of tools and pots. I've used both vermiculite and perlite, but have recently switched to coconut coir as my medium. (Never dirt or compost, both are just too dirty for cuttings, divisions or seedlings.) One time I tried the "sterilize your dirt in your oven" from some gardening blog... The procedure was quickly banned in my household.)
In all cases, I'm trying to use 'least toxic' measures for myself and my family, as we want indoor air clean of both chemicals AMD fungi spores.



Thank you for the information, I appreciate it!

I do make a point of searching for proper academic resources, either from universities or the Extension resources, and as old-as-time of a trade as plant growing is, it can quite hard to find information on some processes and species. Because of this I've been trying to document everything that I can, but also have been forced to use whatever I could find. I've been using this website for guidance on the applewood cuttings:
https://www.gardeningknowhow.c...

I would say that they callused, but I would describe it as a weak callus. It does not look as thick or pronounced as some calluses I've seen on other cuttings online, and why that could be I just don't know enough to comment on. I did use liquid rooting hormone on them though, for what it's worth.

I've been using the dirt-in-the-oven method to sterilize, and so far it has worked for me. I can't say it's very convenient, but it is a good way to mindlessly spend a day if there's nothing else to do.

I've read that it can take up to 6 months for these cuttings to root; I will give it that long and update the post. I honestly expect it to fail (which is why I made sure to gather seeds too), but it will be fun to try.

I'm very interested in grafting. Unfortunately, because I am growing everything from seed, I'm just going to have to wait some years before I can start experimenting with that stuff. But it would definately make working with fruit trees a lot easier.

Have you ever used misquito bits as a pest detirent? I've heard it works wonders, especially for fungus gnats. Compared to the measures you take to sterilze everything, I am really underperforming in that area. You've given me some things to think about in that regard and I appreciate it.
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Jan 23, 2021 11:18 PM CST
Name: Ken Isaac
Salt Lake City, Utah, USA (Zone 7a)
RookiePresent said:
Have you ever used misquito bits as a pest detirent? I've heard it works wonders, especially for fungus gnats.

Sorry for the delay, and I'm sure you've done your research for fungus gnats as you've done for your cuttings. Trying not to fork this thread to much in a different direction, I'll be quick for those reading and wondering. There are other threads and an article about the gnats on the forum if anyone wants further discussion.

Mosquito Bits is a 'biological insecticide' with an extremely narrow use; Its active ingredient, Bacillus thuringiensis subspecies israelensis (Bti), only kills the larval stages of mosquitos (in water) or larval stages of fungus gnats in dirt, and perhaps a few other larval stages of flies. It won't help control ANY OTHER PEST, and won't even bother the adult fungus gnat.

Yes, I've used it, and its awkward to use for fungus gnat control for me, but it may work for you. Like all BTi insecticides, its effectiveness in dirt is somewhat temporary (perhaps a few days to a week?) so reapplication is always necessary, and you'll need three consecutive weekly doses to start with. But still, it may be the most cost effective BTi product for small needs.

I use "knock out gnats" which consists of water disperable granules to deliver the BTi- no chunks of corn cob to worry about. I believe 'knock out gnats' is just a repackaging of the biological insecticide 'Gnatrol' in a smaller size package. You can search those to find out more.

Although yellow sticky traps won't bring control of the gnats, they may keep them at a manageable level for your cuttings.
Thumb of 2021-01-24/kenisaac/402f8a
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Jan 24, 2021 2:41 PM CST
Name: Daisy I
Reno, Nv (Zone 6b)
Not all who wander are lost
Garden Sages Plant Identifier
https://www.gardeningknowhow.c...

I Just read this article. I don't know who this Amy Grant is (hopefully not the singer) - she has no biography attached to this artilce and her science is faulty. A plant grown from a cutting will be as near a duplicate to the parent as is physically possible. That's called cloning and is the entire foundation of all agricultural and horticultural industries.
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and proclaiming...."WOW What a Ride!!" -Mark Frost

President: Orchid Society of Northern Nevada
Webmaster: osnnv.org
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Jan 24, 2021 7:11 PM CST
Name: Rick R.
Minneapolis,MN, USA z4b,Dfb/a
Garden Photography The WITWIT Badge Seed Starter Wild Plant Hunter Region: Minnesota Hybridizer
Garden Sages I was one of the first 300 contributors to the plant database! Plant Identifier Million Pollinator Garden Challenge
A plant grown from a cutting will be as near a duplicate to the parent as is physically possible.

Correct, as far as the genetics of the cutting source (the top- grafted part of the apple tree). The apples and flowers, etc. will be exactly the same.

However, nearly all apples are grafted onto rootstocks whose purpose is usually dwarfing the tree's size, and often addition benefits like tolerances to adverse soils, root disease resistance and precocious fruiting. These qualities of the original tree would not be transmitted through cutting propagation.
When the debate is lost, slander becomes the tool of the losers. - Socrates
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