Hi all!
My Venus Flytrap has put 4 stems and seems ready to bloom in the next months. I was so surprised when I noticed them . However I read that if I cannot pollinate the plant better to cut the stem because flowers will require too much energy from roots and the risk is that the traps will die.
Obviously I don't want the plant to die, so is it actually the case to cut all stems or not ? I feel so sorry cutting them but if it's the only way to ensure the plant's survival I'll have to. What's the best way to cut a stem ? Is there any particular technique or precautions I should observe ? Can I plant or put in water the stems or they will never grow ?
My Venus Flytrap looks healthy but I should say that it has half of the traps lost them in 4-5 months.

Thank you in advance for your help !

Cut them off, although it's getting a bit late for that. By the way these are not houseplants. Here is my grow guide for them:

How to care for Venus Flytraps
By T. Randall

Flytraps are not houseplants. They are perennials and have needs that must be met or they will weaken and eventually die if grown indoors. They MAY last about 4 years indoors but will weaken each year. Forget terrariums. 99% of the time when someone is having a problem with their flytrap on the forums they are growing it indoors. There are a few people who say they can be grown indoors under bright enough lights and regular feedings. Feel free to try it. Good luck. See this document: https://www.flytrapcare.com/ph...

Grow them in FULL ALL DAY SUN OUTDOORS. This means at least 6 hours or more a day. The more the better. If your plant is new acclimate it slowly to full all day Sunlight OUTDOORS. Look up (Google) "Hardening off". Sit it in a shallow tray of rain water, distilled water or reverse osmosis water ONLY during the growing season. NO TAP WATER unless the TDS reading is below 50ppm. TDS meters are cheap and can be found on Amazon or eBay.

In the fall when night time temperatures approach freezing they are going into their dormancy period. THEY MUST have 3-4 months of winter dormancy. Drain off excess water from their pots and place somewhere where the temps. can be maintained between around 33F and 45F for the next 3-4 months. 3 months minimum. Keep them moist only, not waterlogged. Keep them from freezing solid. They can take a brief freeze but not repeated freeze/thaws.

For VFTs, what I do is I drain off excess water from the pots, hit them with a sulfur based fungicide and place in zip lock bags and pop them in the fridge for 3 - 3 1/2 months. I occasionally check them (once a month) for fungus and hit with a SULFUR based fungicide if needed. Late winter around February 1st I take them out hit them with SULFUR based fungicide again and place in a south and west window and some under florescent and white 'daylight' LED lights until night time temps. regularly stay above freezing then slowly acclimate them to full outdoor Sun. I've been using this method for going on 12 years with no losses.

These plants multiply and will fill their pot in a year or 2. Repot in a 50/50 mix of peat moss and perlite. This is the standard CP mix. You could also substitute silica sand for the perlite. DO NOT USE MIRACLE GROW products for them. They contain fertilizers and will kill the plants! The plant gets it's fertilizer from insects. There is no need to feed them.

100% sphagnum is also fine to use as soil, some people prefer it. I prefer peat/perlite as it's easier to remove during re-potting. It basically just falls off the roots. With LFSM you have to untangle it from the roots and risk damaging them.

In spring they will send up a tall flower stalk. Healthy plants can be allowed to flower if you want seeds. Seeds will be shiny black and tear shaped when ready to harvest. If your plant is sickly looking or you don't want seeds cut the stalk as soon as you notice it starting to grow in early spring.

Seeds do not come true to their parent. Example: If the seeds are from DCXL they will not produce DCXL plants.

Thank you for the information! I've been treating mine all wrong.
My plant stopped producing traps at the ends. I've made the necessary changes so hopefully they help.

~C

tommyr said:Cut them off, although it's getting a bit late for that. By the way these are not houseplants. Here is my grow guide for them:

How to care for Venus Flytraps
By T. Randall

Flytraps are not houseplants. They are perennials and have needs that must be met or they will weaken and eventually die if grown indoors. They MAY last about 4 years indoors but will weaken each year. Forget terrariums. 99% of the time when someone is having a problem with their flytrap on the forums they are growing it indoors. There are a few people who say they can be grown indoors under bright enough lights and regular feedings. Feel free to try it. Good luck.

Grow them in FULL ALL DAY SUN OUTDOORS. This means at least 6 hours or more a day. The more the better. If your plant is new acclimate it slowly to full all day Sunlight OUTDOORS. Look up (Google) "Hardening off". Sit it in a shallow tray of rain water, distilled water or reverse osmosis water ONLY during the growing season. NO TAP WATER unless the TDS reading is below 50ppm. TDS meters are cheap and can be found on Amazon or eBay.

In the fall when night time temperatures approach freezing they are going into their dormancy period. THEY MUST have 3-4 months of winter dormancy. Drain off excess water from their pots and place somewhere where the temps. can be maintained between around 33F and 45F for the next 3-4 months. 3 months minimum. Keep them moist only, not waterlogged. Keep them from freezing solid. They can take a brief freeze but not repeated freeze/thaws.

For VFTs, what I do is I drain off excess water from the pots, hit them with a sulfur based fungicide and place in zip lock bags and pop them in the fridge for 3 - 3 1/2 months. I occasionally check them (once a month) for fungus and hit with a SULFUR based fungicide if needed. Late winter around February 1st I take them out hit them with SULFUR based fungicide again and place in a south and west window and some under florescent and white 'daylight' LED lights until night time temps. regularly stay above freezing then slowly acclimate them to full outdoor Sun. I've been using this method for going on 12 years with no losses.

These plants multiply and will fill their pot in a year or 2. Repot in a 50/50 mix of peat moss and perlite. This is the standard CP mix. You could also substitute silica sand for the perlite. DO NOT USE MIRACLE GROW products for them. They contain fertilizers and will kill the plants! The plant gets it's fertilizer from insects. There is no need to feed them.

100% sphagnum is also fine to use as soil, some people prefer it. I prefer peat/perlite as it's easier to remove during re-potting. It basically just falls off the roots. With LFSM you have to untangle it from the roots and risk damaging them.

In spring they will send up a tall flower stalk. Healthy plants can be allowed to flower if you want seeds. Seeds will be shiny black and tear shaped when ready to harvest. If your plant is sickly looking or you don't want seeds cut the stalk as soon as you notice it starting to grow in early spring.

Seeds do not come true to their parent. Example: If the seeds are from DCXL they will not produce DCXL plants.