Will this work or will it bow and warp or any other issues? Anyone have experience with it?

This might answer your question:
https://crateandbasket.com/usi...

Susceptible to Mold

Composite decking companies brand their products "mold-resistant," but composite deck boards still contain wood. When exposed to moisture, wood molds and rots. Uncapped wood composite boards exclude a protective casing, leaving their organic ingredients vulnerable to the elements.

https://www.gardeners.com/buy/...

well this bed is 62% wood, 38% is recycled materials, I guess I didn't catch that when I first looked at it, I did not realize that. Not even half of the product is recycled material!

They make PVC decking that has no wood in it.

I did not know that either, I will look into that, thank you!

What are the problems with PVC decking?

"Certain PVC decking products are prone to peeling, staining, deteriorating, and mold accumulation after relatively short periods of time. Some of the PVC decking subject to these complaints is manufactured by AZEC, TimberTech, and Wolf Home ."

The sunny side will be warp over time, sunlight makes it brittle of over time.
If it gets cold enough to freeze soil till it expands, that will eventually cause problems.
The thread else where with the metal bins, that looks like the best non-wood, but put a clear coat on those before filling and it will look good a lot longer.
I/we have pvc chairs that are always in the shade and eventually you will sit down and be sitting on the ground without exception.

well I wonder how long it lasts when compared to how long stained treated wood lasts? I do have a termite issue here also which is one of the reasons I thought I'd use composite, that and it's supposed to last a long time. How long would treated stained wood last-I am only planting flowers in it-front of the house for looks, not a food bed so not worried about that.

To avoid termites, I have zero knowledge of how long treated wood would would last, railroad ties will work.
Get some that are still dark with few to zero cracks and they will last decades.

I considered that, just not sure as this is right front of my house, so not sure about the look. But it might be the best option.

Railroad ties are treated with chemical preservatives, such as creosote and chromated copper arsenate. Both of these chemicals are banned for residential use, and they're potentially harmful to humans and plants.

Pressure-treated lumber intended for residential use is now typically treated with borates or copper-based preservatives. The most common preservative for new pressure-treated lumber is now alkaline copper quaternary (ACQ), which contains no arsenic and has a low level of toxicity. According to the American Wood Protection Association and the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, lumber treated with ACQ is safe for garden use. Its durability and nontoxicity make it among the best woods for raised garden beds.

they may be banned for residential use as in selling them as a direct product, but rail road ties are sold by the piles at a handful of stores in my city. Those chemicals would be reasons for me not to use them for raised beds growing food crops; but they are also the reason I am considering them for my flower bed along the front of my house since I have a termite problem. I have spent thousands of dollars over the past 9 years rebuilding, spraying, and more rebuilding to keep up with the termite issue. I can't imagine them being markedly harmful to plants, my grandma used to grow tomatoes in rail road tie beds for years and years and the plants always got huge, she grew all kinds of things in there. She's in her mid nineties now and still going. I guess there are pros and cons to everything, I just have to find the right product for my circumstances.

The issue isn't harmful to plants, but harmful to the people and animals that eat the plants.

Not sure that glue really has a place in the garden...

There are a number of trees that produce rot resistant lumber...
Osage orange
black walnut
honey locust
black locust
red mulberry
cedar
to name a few...

Or... use brick or concrete block.
or nothing... no law that requires a border on a raised bed.

I am trying to retain dirt that is higher than my siding since my house is built lower than my yard. I have water issues under my crawl space, and one thing I am going to help fix it, is lowering the soil level directly around the perimeter of my house so that it doesn't touch the siding. I need something to hold that back, but it needs to be something that moles can't upheave, so concrete bricks/stones are out, also don't want to use stones because I think soil will wash in between them over time. I am looking for something solid to put there.

Frillylily said: I considered that, just not sure as this is right front of my house, so not sure about the look. But it might be the best option.

I have had them around my Rose and Vegetable gardens now for twenty years.
Make sure the ones on top are as solid as you can find. About one-fourth of mine , with cracks, are partially rotting as dirt and water got in the cracks.
I will be replacing them this summer.

How high do you need the edging? I've been seeing attractive recycled rubber edging lately

I'd say about 1 foot But it needs to be something stable enough to hold the soil on one side and have no soil on the other.

This is the area, the soil slopes toward the house, when we bought the house the dirt was about 4 inches up onto the siding and I had to dig it out.




The red line is where I am wanting to put a retaining edge, the side toward the sidewalk-the black is the dirt I will level out and it will come up onto the edge I need, the red. The red edge will keep the soil in place from washing out back onto the house. The purple is paver stones we are putting in because the green arrow indicates a 6" clearance we need from the bottom edge of the siding to the soil line. so that will be dug out and smoothed off and I'm laying concrete pavers there, about 18" wide just enough to fix my issue and have a little work room to wash the window. Then the red edge right up to that and then the soil on the other side is higher. The area with the light purple arrow I already have 6 inches of clearance and I think I can work that up w/o an edge. I hope all that made sense. *****************
So I am wondering about putting a heavy plastic like an 8 mil and then laying the pavers, then wrapping the plastic up over rail road ties on the front side and stapeling that and then adding a stained wood trim/ledge across the length of the top. You would only see the rail road tie a little from the inside of the house out the window, but probably not much if the wood ledge came out a little over it.

6 x 6 pressure treated wood with sleepers and rebar driven through them into the ground should be able to do the trick, and they will last for years.