Even though some of us live in climates that differ from yours, this is indeed very helpful.
You show a variety of products that are good to know about. Just checked on alfalfa
pellets today at Tractor Supply and they have it.

Nice information to know! And your last raised bed picture is proof that your methods work

Very nice

Michelle,

You are just too nice to post all these things for us. I enjoy seeing how other people plant their stuff.

Dot

Great info, Michelle. I'm learning a lot from you! I'll put Daniel's on my list. Thank you.

GREAT article! Thank you!

Hi, Just wanted to say thanks for the info and your bed looks great. From a neighbor north of you in Barrineau Park.

Saw this on random idea today! Great article, I know some of these things you already told me but the step by step instructions and pictures are incredible! I love that bed.

mistyfog said:Even though some of us live in climates that differ from yours, this is indeed very helpful.
You show a variety of products that are good to know about. Just checked on alfalfa
pellets today at Tractor Supply and they have it.

What section of Tractor's Supply do they have the alfalfa pellets?

Ladylovingdove said:Michelle,

You are just too nice to post all these things for us. I enjoy seeing how other people plant their stuff.

Dot

virginiarose said:Saw this on random idea today! Great article, I know some of these things you already told me but the step by step instructions and pictures are incredible! I love that bed.

Marilyn said:What section of Tractor's Supply do they have the alfalfa pellets?

It will be in the feed section. Around $14 for a 50lb bag.

Thanks Dave!

Thanks very much, I like the way you make soil!

"First, a dump truck of pine bark!"

Do you find that the beds subside much after 2-3 years as the bark decays?

Did I read it right that you didn't add any of your clay soil at all? I think a LITTLE clay is great for buffering mineral nutrients and making clods and peds more solid. If you want any clay in the mix, I would break the clay up first by mixing it finely with sand or sandy soil. Then add and mix well some fine bark and compost to keep it from clumping again. Then I'ld add about 5% or 10% of that mix to the great organic soil you described.

Hi Rick,

The first year I got a load of pine bark it came in a semi truck. The only reason we get a dump truck now is because the semi can't get in where I'm at now.

We do have to add bark each year to the beds, but I'm not sure if its because it breaks down or because we loose a bit when we dig the plants and divide each year. Also it depends on the size of bark that is used; the bigger size won't break down as fast as the finer stuff.
I would say if I didn't dig the beds up I probably could wait a couple of years before adding about 3 or 4 inches more of bark.

No I do not mix any of the clay in at all. I have tried mixing sand with the clay and it was just a big mess. If I was planting directly in the ground I would have to work with the clay more to get it to be usable but it's just simpler to do it the way we do.

>> it's just simpler to do it the way we do.

I believe it! And your soil quality must be excellent, as compared to "less awful than pure clay", which is the state of many of my beds at this time.

>> I have tried mixing sand with the clay and it was just a big mess.

I agree. Unless you add at least 20% compost, sand doesn't help clay. Clay seems to need 50% or more compost if you only add compost. And I have to renew the compost often.

The combination of compost PLUS sand seemed to help clay more than either one alone.

BUT, it seems to me that with my clay, adding only 20% compost with NO sand doesn't help much, and as soon as the compost decomposes, I'm back to pure clay pudding.

It seemed that when I added not-enough-compost, even a little sand really helped the clay stay friable and less pliable. I imagine that it helped the amended clay stay as discrete clods or peds after I "fluffed it up". Pure clay just flows and deforms and glues back together until it's all one continuous puddle.

I haven't done a comparison test of clay-plus-bark-fines-only, compared to clay-plus-compost-only or clay-plus-sand-only. . Now I just add as much compost as I can afford, and as much fine bark and grit-sized bark as I can afford, then add as much very coarse sand or grit (crushed rock) as I can afford and carry (HEAVY!).

Your idea of starting with a matrix of 90% dime-and-nickle-size bark sounds wonderfully aerated AND organic.

Michele - That was an excellent article! It was worth at least 5 acorns from me! Thank you so much for some awesome information!

Hi again, Michelle.

I appreciated this just as much on the second reading, and NOW I have some acorns in the bank to show my appreciation!

Re-reading it, I wondered about how much water is retained by the very coarse bark mix. I guess all the organic fertilizer-like additions help hold water. And, as the bark breaks down over 2-5 years, the crumbled fibers must hold a good amount of water. Does that sound right?

How often do you have to water a new bed? Can you water less often after the first 3-4 years?