I rec'd your message and am glad to respond. The first thing I would say is that a very high % of issues for which people arrive at forums in seek of remediation are related to poor root health and/or compromised root function. No one can offer meaningful advice re watering intervals without a good working knowledge of the physical characteristics of the grow medium you're using and your watering habits; but it only takes a minute to learn how to determine what your current appropriate watering interval is.
First, let me say that the idea a plant needs more water when the top inch or two of the soil feels dry to the touch is pretty much a recipe for over-watering, unless the pot is quite shallow - 5" deep or less. In deeper pots, say 10" deep, and if you're watering correctly, the roots in the top inch or two of the grow medium don't do much in terms of absorbing water and the nutrients dissolved in the water, serving primarily as plumbing and anchorage. This is because fine roots die back in the top inch or two of soil as the soil dries down. In a pot that is 8-10" deep, while the top inch or two of soil feels dry to the touch, the bottom 4-6" of the medium can be completely (100%) saturated. This kills fine roots, limits root function due to lack of oxygen, and sets the table for fungal root infections that wreck root health.
Since root growth always precedes top growth, the fine roots killed by inundation must be regenerated before top growth can begin again. This cyclic death and regeneration of roots is very expensive in terms of energy outlay and can rob the plant of an enormous % of its potential in terms of growth rate, vitality, eye appeal, and the plant's ability to defend itself against insect herbivory and disease pathogens.
Images posted subsequent to the first post tend to conform the probability of over-watering. The necrotic areas at leaf margins and tips are consistent with too much water and the several malformed leaves are very likely from a cultural deficiency of Ca(lcium). A cultural deficiency is different than a physical deficiency due in that there may well an adequate supply of Ca in the soil/ soil solution, but the lack of oxygen is (culturally) limiting the plant's ability to take up Ca. Ca must be in the nutrient stream at all times if the plant's cells (and by extension, tissue) are to form normally. Symptoms of a Ca deficiency are often holes or tears in leaves, and the malformed leaves already mentioned.
Some of the leaves also show signs of oedema/edema. The primary driver of oedema is over-watering, but anything that slows the nutrient stream can exacerbate the physiological disorder. Low light, cool temps, still air, heavy pruning, and deficiencies of Ca and Mg can work collectively with over-watering to increase likelihood and severity of the disorder.
To be sure, it's important to rule out the possibility you're under-watering. The best way to monitor moisture levels deep in the pot, where it's far more important than the top 2", is by using a wooden "tell" you can make from a wooden dowel rod. I'll leave a short piece I wrote about using a "tell" in case you want to invest a buck or two. Good water management is an art, and a highly aerated, fast-draining grow medium is much more forgiving than media based on peat and other fine particulates like compost, coir, sand, composted forest products, ...., and makes everything (especially watering and fertilizing (are you fertilizing?) easier and more rewarding.
Using a 'tell'
Over-watering saps vitality and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it, they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see that terrestrial plants need plenty of air (oxygen) in the soil to drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and not enough air to support the kind of root health most growers would like to see; and, a healthy root system is a prerequisite to a healthy plant.
Watering in small sips leads to avoid over-watering leads to a residual build-up of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil from tapwater and fertilizer solutions, which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma. It creates another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very important factor.
In many cases, we can judge whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water.
Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'.
One of the most reliable methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell'. You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of about 5/16" (75-85mm) would work better. They usually come 48" (120cm) long and can usually be cut in half and serve as a pair. Sharpen all 4 ends in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell comes out dry or nearly so. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue.
Al
