First time I have seen Adeniums here in Lowes or HD. I bought 2 this morning. My question is how long can I wait to repot, they are very healthy, plenty of leaves and buds about to open. My wife would like to see the flowers, so would I. How long can I wait? The bare-root plants I potted last week will not be flowering for a while. One more question, when I do re-pot should I keep them in shade, morning sun or full sun, I am in NM our sun this time of year is intense. Might have to go back to Lowes tomorrow they only had about 10 left . Thanks Bob

can you upload pictures ?

if your adeniums have flower buds - hold off repotting ...it can take weeks before flower buds open ... repotting may cause flower buds to abort

adeniums take forever to respond to anything we do to them ....

my adeniums get filtered morning sun - then full sun from about 11am to sunset ...

after maintenance, like repotting or lifting - plants go back into sun ....

but if roots get pruned back or removed - hang the caudex in the shade a few days for open wounds to harden or callus over ...this is a root rot preventive

speaking about root rot ....the cause of root rot is water .... the outcome of root rot is usually the loss of the plant .... with adeniums it is far better to underwater than to over water

with that said - when it is hot - adeniums thrive when watered to saturation

Watering -

count rainfall as a watering day

keep track of local temperatures ~

days 80° to 90° water once every 7-to 10 days
days over 90° water once every 5 days
days over 100° water once every 3 days

water in several passes to saturate potting media

be certain water drains freely from & away from pot

never allow adenium to sit in water

stop watering if night temps dip below 50°

When you say they take forever to respond, what sort of time do you mean? I have potted about a dozen bare root adeniums I bought off the Internet. How long should it take for them to leaf out? should I keep them in full sun? Rain is not a problem it only rains here July and August and then we get about 4". Still trying to work out how to post pictures

few days to over a month ....

adenium are slow to respond to almost everything ....

to get things started - water to saturation ...make certain water flows freely from pot ...
don't water again until the last watering dries out

place in a warm spot - when they are ready ...you will start to see the tips of branches turn green - then you will see leaves emerge

if they are leafless now - full sun will not hurt them ...

all they need are moisture & warm days ...with that - you will see leaves in no time and flowers before you know it

using the same reply box as you type a message

take a picture ....
create a New folder on a *internet connected device* like PC, tablet or cell phone ....

name this new folder something like "Pictures" and put it where you can find it later ...for PC's that would be desktop - cell and tablets on main screen

move picture(s) to New folder "Pictures"

when you want to upload your pictures to this website (or any other) ....
click the Browse button below ....

on next page you will see the contents of your PC computer, tablet or cell phone ....

navigate to the folder you created ...then choose the picture you want to upload ...

click picture ... give it second ...you should see progress bar ....

then click finished ...your picture should be visible to you and everybody else

These are the Lowes plants I bought, I will wait to see flowers before I repot

the pot they are in will make it to next year ...assuming those pots are fast draining ... if you want to repot just to get them out of the paper pots

flowers form at stem tips, and adenium flowering can go on for well over a month ...sometimes longer ...
flower buds "line up" and flower one after the other on the same stem tip - usually many stem tips with flowers can cover a plant

best to do all maintenance, including repotting early spring ....this gives the plants all summer to recover

wiltshire said: These are the Lowes plants I bought, I will wait to see flowers before I repot

Healthy looking adeniums! @ I love pink so more than half of my collection are pink! I am trying to diversify so adding different colors in my collection!

Wife went back to Lowes to day and bought 4 more plants for me, two white two red. These are all A. Arabicum, What is the difference between A.Arabicum and A.obesum do they need different care?

wiltshire said: Wife went back to Lowes to day and bought 4 more plants for me, two white two red. These are all A. Arabicum, What is the difference between A.Arabicum and A.obesum do they need different care?

Google is your friend :)
https://findanyanswer.com/what...

care is the same

can you take pictures of the pot labels with plant information ?

reason i ask .. A.arabicum is currently classed as a subspecies of A.obesum by many Taxonomy specialists ...but I believe the 2 are separate species, not because of similarities - but what is *so different between them*

A.obesum - grown from seed obesum generates a fat caudex - have glossy, smooth green leaves - flowers are tubular almost trumpet like ...and almost always a variant of light pink to light violet (and colors in-between)

A.arabicum - grown from seed also generates a fat caudex but with age becomes squat like - leaves are pale Lima bean green, leathery, with hairs on both upper lower surface ....the flowers are almost flat across & less tubular or trumpet like - and in the eyes of many plant collectors produce the most desirable caudexes

--

when a Adenium cross or hybrid comes along from either natural or man-made fertilization .... the colors of flowers can become exotic like: reds, yellows, blacks, orange - doubles, singles & any combination ..... seed from these exotic crosses may not become true (look like its exotic parent) - so grafters will take a stem cutting from exotic and graft to a mature A.arabicum caudex ....

So if you get a grafted plant you *never* want to prune below the graft point or plant will revert to original plant

a graft will appear as a perfect ring around a stem ....sometimes a "stepped ring" ...a diagonal line ....sometimes the color of one stem will shift abruptly to another color - will appear like a circular "color" boundary around a stem

other than the never prune below graft - water, fertilize & grow like any other adenium

There is no plant information on pot ,which is unusual, just says plant name and where grown. The plants are still in good condition, and the codex under the soil in quite big.

Ok ... the stem tips are grafted onto a A arabicum caudex

the circled area is your graft ...never prune below the cut

wiltshire said: There is no plant information on pot ,which is unusual, just says plant name and where grown. The plants are still in good condition, and the codex under the soil in quite big.

:hearts: you will see blooms soon!

with James these are grafted! And that is the same price I bought my desert roses from Lowe's. It is a good thing you got all 4, they sell fast. In your area, they might only sell those until August.

I have just potted 2 of my 6 plants, [the ones with out buds] and I was surprised to see the soil was pure potting mix, no inorganic at all. How do the growers stop them from rotting ? Every thing I Have read says drainage, drainage and more drainage. Just curious, these plants look really healthy.

big time growers can afford to loose plants - all the while using cheap compost to fill pots

In the dry desert air, potting soil might work well. I can't keep any plant alive in regular potting soil here.

I am watering every 3 days, temps are 100 plus with high winds, drying out every thing. My soil mix is 30% organic 70% inorganic. I read some Adenium growers are using coir with coir chips good drainage but holds moisture, has any body heard of this .I would like water every 5 days or I cant leave home for long. Las Vegas might call me

adenium are native to rocky deserts ...they can handle the heat and no water for long stretches

they can go a few days, to much longer without water ....when hot and dry adenium may look wilted .... but they bounce back

much better to go days without water ....than frequent water ....water causes rot

I can vouch for coir ...been using it ever since i learned (from experience & dead plants) that peat / potting soil held way too much water

but I can not vouch for coir chips

~ A tried & true adenium mix ~

Mix together:

1 Part: Coconut Coir -
1 Part: Poultry Grit (chicken grit) /or Pea Gravel - (sift out any fine grain silt)
1 Part: Sand - coarse Builder's Sand, or Leveling Sand, or Horticultural Sand - (sift out any fine grain silt)
1 Part: Lump Charcoal - Break-up (crush larger pieces) - (sift out any fine grain silt)
1 Part: Lava-rock – (volcanic cinders or pumice) (crush larger pieces) - (sift out any fine grain silt)
1 Part: Perlite - coarse - (sift out any fine grain silt)

Optional: mix with above

1 Part: Redwood Bark / Orchid (Phalaenopsis) Mix - Break-up, cut or crush larger stems & bark

this is a fast draining, chunky, gritty mix .....or low organic, high inorganic mixture ....

this mix is at the low end of supplying available nutrients ....to supplement nutrients - add slow release fertilizer at every repot - and water every other time with water soluble fertilizer containing most of the micronutrients

my go to fertilizers:

Osmocote 14-14-14 (at repot) ....
Miracle-Gro All Purpose 24-8-16 (every other watering) ...........

My goodness 5-1 inorganic to organic. What size do you make your lump charcoal and lava rock? I have ordered a bag of coir chips to see what it is like, I wonder if it would work like Red Wood bark . Its hard to buy supplies here locally, I have to buy everything on line and shipping adds up.