Pam, that's not necessarily the problem. There are people that spray just one thing and don't have problems ( or at least keep it at bay). However, the ones I know of use the professional products and they have a higher % of the chemicals in them. Also, it is said that using one systemic product and not rotating may possibly cause resistance. If you use Daconil a lot without a systemic fungicide then that could be why since it is only a contact fungicide so it will only take care of the orange rust spores we see on the plant, it does not take care of what is going on inside the plant that we don't see which is where it all actually begins. The Bayer products or any kind for home gardener products are good but on a small scale (IMHO) since it is a less % of the active ingredient.

Also you have no idea what is blowing in from elsewhere. The neighbor next to use has some daylilies and I now doesn't spray them so his spores blow over to our yard and can infect or re-infect our plants. I have read that rust can travel up to 60 miles away (I guess it could be more) so it can blow in from anywhere.

Fred is right, any daylily can get rust given the right conditions. I only have a few that I have never seen rust on but that doesn't mean that they can't get it. Rust can lay in wait inside the daylily for the perfect conditions and then BAM it rears it's ugly head.

I have had rust in the past, but thankfully it tends to die here during the winters (see, there IS a reason I put up with these cold winters!)

Last year when I got in - in mid September - I cut everything back, made sure I tossed all the waste for my garbage pickup and not mulch it, and hoped we had a cold winter- which we did. So far, no rust this year, BUT, it could still show up.

The honorable hybridizers would never ship anything with visible rust - and take almost drastic steps to prevent any disease (rust or anything else) from infecting another garden. But as has already been mentioned, there are no guarantees no matter where the plants are purchased from. And as has already been mentioned, it could come locally too.

For the most part, I don't worry about where a plant comes from - just that I am dealing with someone I can trust ~Jan

If it is in the daylily waiting for the right conditions, then is there anything you can do to kill it before it gets crazy? Can I dig them up and soak them? I am getting ready to do a large planting and I am thinking I might trim them down and dip them before I plant them? Would that help? and the others cut off the foliage completely and spray them, like you said.

Susan,
It wouldn't hurt to soak them. And by doing that and cutting the foliage down to a nub (so to speak) you have a greater chance of getting rid of it (plus proper disposal of debri). But as far as I know there is no cure for rust. Headline and Heritage fungicides are said to be a possible curative for it but it's not definite. Even if it did kill it off you still have spores that can be blown in from miles around or be lurking in your own garden anywhere waiting to be blown to the daylily. And if there is an opening for it to get into it can re-infect the plant.

Again, I learned plenty of lessons from my first rust attack last year. Most of it was commonsense logic. Even northerners can have rust in their garden by fall, particularly if they have brought in new daylilies from the "rust belt". So fall is a time in particular I am cautious about who I buy from.................. This spring however, I just HAD to have a daylily from a grower in zone 7B. Unlike the year before which was warmer then most, areas in the upper south had a "normal" winter which may have killed off any lingering rust (as it did in my zone 7a garden) or slowed it down. The year before most of the zone 7a-b daylily people were talking about how warm the winter had been. That's never a good sign if you are ordering from marginal zones. I then ordered my daylily and had it shipped as early as possible. I was hoping that the coolness of very early spring might inhibit any infectious spore production, be it in the one I ordered or in the surrounding plants. When it arrived I soaked it in Bleach water for about 15 minutes and then whittled it back to nubbins (it DID have a nice root system). It was a bit scary, but the plant rebounded, and not only flowered, but put off a division as well. If you want to spray that's fine by me. I'm not anti-spray (I grow Hybrid Teas), but if you can have a rust free garden without the effort or fuss, that would be ideal I would think.........Below is a picture of how the daylily looked after I trimmed it back. Scares me even now-lol........Maryl:

Thanks Tink!!



Maryl, thanks to you I now have a mental image of a daylily nub. LOL. Thanks for sharing your story.

I'm doing this year what Jan did last year. Cleaning all the debris and cutting back the daylilies. I didn't do any of that last year and didn't clean up this spring and I could tell that I didn't. My foliage looked terrible this year.

Wow, who would have thought.

A friend suggested the Bayeradvanced and I found a rebate if anyone is interested here is the link.

http://www.bayeradvanced.com/s...

Thanks for the rebate coupon, Susan!

Yes, thanks very much!

Thank you for sharing all this GOOD information. I feel very lucky, that even with our wet summer I haven't seen any rust (yet). But now know what to do. Several of my neighbors have Daylily beds and feel I need to do my part to keep the rust at bay for all of us.

You are .glad you liked the coupon!


Liz, you are a good neighbor!

spunky1 said:I know of no daylilies that won't get rust when the conditions are right, everyone that has daylilies should be aware of this. Some hybridizers will give the results of rust resistance in there garden, but that doesn't mean they won't get rust in your garden. All of us in the south that ship daylilies do everything possible to keep rust out and would never ship a daylily with visible rust. Just be aware, no matter where you get daylilies from, north or south, you may have to spray them for rust.

*********************************************************************************

Ok, here was my thinking.... If a daylily is susceptible it would develope rust if conditions were favorable. I knew from the beginning that my conditions were favorable that is why I did not buy the susceptible daylilies. If they are all susceptible then the information in the database is useless. I will just buy what I want and deal with it one day at a time.

PANDORA'S BOX got planted today!

LOVE Pandora's Box! It was one of the first ones I bought, and it always makes me smile!

I'm really curious about the ones that are susceptible too. I never worried about that in the past because I was in zone 5a. Now that I'm in a warmer zone, I guess it's something that I need to think about. I have no neighbors close by, and the ones that are in my area do not grow daylilies. But, I guess it's still something to worry about!

Susan,

Some just get rust worse than others. Dave is working on the database to have it where multiple observations can be listed for various parts of the info such as rust so the info will be more useful.

To me being listed as resistant or susceptible is kind of the same. If a plant is listed as moderately resistant or highly resistant IMHO it is still susceptible to some degree because it still can get rust. Being susceptible does not mean it can't be resistant also. There is no known completely resistant daylily that I am aware of.

So "TO ME" if a daylily is for example

Moderately resistant then it is still moderately susceptible

I know that is just opening up a can of worms but I like to think of things in the simplest way sometimes and that's just how I look at it.

Michele, good thinking there, and I agree. None are immune!

I think it is the best way to look at things! For now on I will treat them all like they are susceptible and that way I will not be surprised when something breaks out, I will just deal with it.

Natalie, I thought I had thrown Pandora's Box away!! .I'm glad I still have this one.

Tink, I will be taking notes about what I see. Maybe I will add some comments of my own.

Oh i am so glad you all are talking about this...since I am sorta a newbie id like to ask a few ?s about Rust....What is its northern limit to survive through the Winter? And if a plant does get rust...will it always have it or if it dies off in the winter does it recover just fine? Im just trying to prepare myself in case I ever do get it from a southern grower by accident...I dont think i would blame them...Its sorta impossible to completely eliminate the possibility...