Hah! I'd already proposed a couple of DB data changes regarding light for germination, but I'll wait to see what Caroline says about hers before I propose the new change. It might be that they germinate either way.

Thanks for the heads-up, Anne.

I think it's either way since I had other seeds come up after I took the foil off.

My Gazania seeds were sprouted under lights, no heat mat, but on top shelf by furnace so very warm.
I sowed them 17/3/ 2014 and there were sprouts on 20/3/2014-so yes three days.
The Royale mix of Salpiglossis was sown 17/3/2014 in same tray,
and sprouts showed on 21/3/2014 so 4 days on the Salpiglossis.

Thanks, Caroline!

So...darkness isn't a requirement for the salpiglossis either. I'd get caught up in my own confusion...but I'm having too much fun.

I do that too when i get going on a bunch of seeds.

I've gotten into the habit of writing germination requirement on seed packets if they aren't already there - saves a lot of time.

Once we know what those requirements are anyway.

One of my old standby's is Thompson & Morgan's Seed Germination Database .. It's an awesome place to start .. here is a link:

http://www.backyardgardener.co...

Once you get there, start scrolling down til you see Suggested Sowing Times, scroll down just a bit more and you'll see a kazillion plant genus's with all the info you need.

Also note that this is out of print and hasn't been updated in umpteen years probably but so far since I've been using it it's been right on.

About 8 years ago I copied it into a Word file and printed it out. If anyone would like the file just T-Mail me with your email address.

Found a new to me plant - Slightly Strawberry™ - Cape Mallow - Anisodontea hybrid ...
Am going to try it in a pot. Think I may have grown an anisodontea once before that was a plain pale pink.

That's pretty, Susan!

I'm growing several mallows this year, too; one is Mountain Hollyhock (Iliamna rivularis). I haven't found any definitive information as to whether or not I can expect blooms this year, but it's still a neat plant. I'd prefer it if it performed more like an annual here, but I have the feeling that it's more apt to act like a biennial.

Only new annual for me so far this year would be Nasturtium (Dwarf Jewel mix). I started 5 in a small pot. Roughly 7 days to what's pictured below (there are 5, one seed must've sunk a bit).

I think I have a good spot for most of the packet but I might try some in some hanging baskets too. I'm pleased to have something new to try and after learning they're edible? Well, might add some to my harvest salads?

Here's another good seed-starting-requirements database:

http://tomclothier.hort.net/

Tom has separate lists for:
- perennials
- annuals & biennials
- trees & shrubs
- penstemons (!)


Fairly often, seed vendors don't mention stratification requirements on the packet (lest they scare away the faint-hearted and lose a sale?)

At least once, a packet suggested cold-moist stratification, but I got average-for-me germination rates without it. I think that sometimes the "required" stratification just speeds germination, or maybe it increases the germination % from 30% to 70%.

And maybe sometimes a seed packet is so fresh (or so old) that dormancy had not yet set in (or was already fading from age).

Thanks! Awesome page.

Isn't he cool? I love his explanation of germination temperatures: speed vs. %.

And his description of adding grit to soil is great, except he doesn't like bark as much as I do. If I were to bet by the odds, I would assume he's right and I'm wrong, but I need to know "why" before I can accept something.

I haven't had a chance to really dig into all the info but from just the little I've seen it's invaluable! I'm delighted to see someone actually address soil temperature. That is a very important part of gardening that seems to get little attention.

Yes, I purchased a soil thermometer this spring.
Especially for seed germination,---- it is the soil temperature which is important.
Over the winter, I have been keeping track of soil temperature at bulb level by a remote thermometer.
i.e. soil about 6 inches down.

Here's Waterfall Encanto Orange begonia. Newly planted in a container. Hope it does well. I've never done very well with begonias, but am trying a couple new ones this year.

Brightest light but no direct sun seems to work for me with begonias.

Mine get a bit of very early morning sun, but they're in filtered light the rest of the day. They can get disease here if the leaves are damp too often, so I keep most of mine under an overhang or a porch roof. I've had a few containers do well under a fairly high evergreen canopy, too. I think a little dew protection really helps them to stay healthy. On warm rainy days I'll set them out for a bath, but other than that I just try to keep the plant itself dry. (That might just be a zonal thing, too...where the damp is predominantly cool, I think more problems may arise. )

Too bad I don't have any kind of overhang. It's been raining hard here most of the night. Next few days look rainy too. Thanks for the suggestions.