Michele, any remote chance you're thinking of the article Dips, Drenches and Foliar Applications of Fungicides for Management of Daylily Rust in the Daylily Journal of Summer 2011, pages 10 to 12? It has comparison tables and figures and included the nickel test?

Just to add to what I said earlier about its being theoretically possible to bring rust in on seeds, this is a seedling I was able to infect with rust by adding fresh daylily rust spores to seeds that were germinating on a damp kitchen paper towel. The pencil is to give an idea of the seedling's small size at the time a pustule became evident, my recollection is that this was three weeks after germination. There is one rust pustule on a leaf.



Under normal circumstances and normal germination practices this would be unlikely to happen because the spore/s would have to contact a leaf while still viable, but it does show that even germinating seedlings can be infected so it may not be impossible.

Happened to find this huge list of fungicides -- interesting;

http://www.herbiguide.com.au/I...

Holy Cow! That is some list! Which ones work the best is the question now .....

I have no problem getting rust on my small seedlings, I dont have to introduce it

Tim Herrington is the only person I know that truely breeds and is somewhat successful in weeding out the rust.

I have no problem killing rust, but once the plants get it, I have never found a way to really save the leaves and make the plant look decent. It just has to start from scratch. Once it gets over 90, no problem. Im going to have to try some of the things mentioned above.

Pat, I looked at your fungicide list link while reading ATP on my iPod Touch, assuming it was Australian because of the .au in the address. That would mean that the product names and/or active ingredients aren't necessarily going to be the same as in the USA. Sooo, I logged in to ATP on my laptop to mention that (too tedious trying to type on the iPod's virtual keyboard), tried to go to the site to verify it was Australian and my antivirus blocked it, saying "The web page is on the list of websites with potentially dangerous content" so I couldn't go there. Since you and Becky were able to view it I don't know what my antivirus thinks is the problem with it!

sooby said:Pat, I looked at your fungicide list link while reading ATP on my iPod Touch, assuming it was Australian because of the .au in the address. That would mean that the product names and/or active ingredients aren't necessarily going to be the same as in the USA. Sooo, I logged in to ATP on my laptop to mention that (too tedious trying to type on the iPod's virtual keyboard), tried to go to the site to verify it was Australian and my antivirus blocked it, saying "The web page is on the list of websites with potentially dangerous content" so I couldn't go there. Since you and Becky were able to view it I don't know what my antivirus thinks is the problem with it!

I believe the site is Australian since the few companies on there that I checked had Australian addresses/info.

To locate the stuff in the USA, just use the chemical name on a Google search. For example here are 2 that I checked:

HERITAGE G Granular Fungicide (Azoxystrobin) - 30 Lbs....US $79.75 plus shipping from Tampa, FL $20.39 on Ebay.

Captan: http://www.bonide.com/products...
(Which for some reason isn't for sale in Florida by this company, although I know it is here since I saw Captan yesterday at a garden supply and I used it years ago on horses with itchy legs.)

Which ones work best on daylily rust? I don't know.
But having so many choices does give options in spray rotation to avoid resistance.
And also gives some pricing choices.

A local landscaper at the garden shop suggested copper and I got some yesterday to try in rotation. It was reasonably priced for the amount it will make.

Just want to add that of the plants seeming to resist the rust outbreak best thus far: Ruffled Ruby.
She is one of the cheap ones I got from Wilds this year. She has bloomed already.

As mentioned before, the 3 Petit plants (new this year) have held up pretty good, but only 1 of them has bloomed.
(1 Petit came in with spring sickness, but is now okay.)

The plants I got directly from Trimmer held up quite awhile, but the Trimmer plants and others bought from the NC farm were ate up with rust.
And the plant I got from Wynn's hasn't exhibited any rust, but didn't have as much exposure given location.
If I had had more experience with "new" daylilies, I would have recognized rust earlier and nipped it in the bud most likely.

I was reading on a daylily Facebook page where someone up North, just getting ready to start selling their daylilies got infected by a plant from a Southern breeder and now couldn't have their daylily sale.

IMO if you are going to sell daylilies, rust is a CRITICAL issue. And that kind of comment of Facebook can affect all Southern growers.

Xenacrockett said:
Which ones work best on daylily rust? I don't know.
But having so many choices does give options in spray rotation to avoid resistance.

From that point of view, rather than check out a long list of products/active ingredients that may or may not be available in the USA and which haven't necessarily been tested for daylily rust, it might be easier to start with the studies that have been done on fungicides specifically for daylily rust and go from there. Some of the studies are linked to from this thread, others are listed on my daylily rust info site at http://web.ncf.ca/ah748/rust.h... especially on the literature list and FAQ pages. (Copper was tested in one of them, BTW). Also from the FAQ page there is a link to an AHS Daylily Journal article PDF on daylily rust control, including suggested fungicide rotations.

For other options in rotation to avoid resistance, the FRAC codes (Fungicide Resistance Action Committee) list for 2014 is available here:

http://www.frac.info/

as is a list of fungicide common names (for 2012).

BTW a Google search suggested the Australian site is blacklisted for having, at some time, hosted malware. Whether it still does or not wasn't clear.

I found this on the website of Cross Border daylilies last year:

"This year we had a pleasant surprise in that rust could not be found in our garden in September despite the fact the plants had not been sprayed with Cabrio since May. We will of course start our spray program back up in early February well before shipping season so that we are shipping rust free plants."

Cabrio is very expensive, but others have said that it works.

farawayfarmer said:

Cabrio is very expensive, but others have said that it works.

Cabrio is not very expensive at all compared to other fungicides. The most expensive I found is $240 for 5 lbs granular and the mix ratio is 3 Tbs per 15 gallons of water so it will last a good while unless you have acres and acres of daylilies. The Headline (liquid form) is over $900 for 2.5 gallons.

I use Headline but have Cabrio on hand. They are both good but I was told that the Cabrio needed to be sprayed every nine days to be most effective compared to every 14 days for Headline and other oil based fungicides.

tink3472 said:

Cabrio is not very expensive at all compared to other fungicides. The most expensive I found is $240 for 5 lbs granular and the mix ratio is 3 Tbs per 15 gallons of water so it will last a good while unless you have acres and acres of daylilies. The Headline (liquid form) is over $900 for 2.5 gallons.

.

"Expensive" is a relative term. When you live on SS, anything over $9.95 has to be considered carefully. LOL

John - I hear ya! Too bad we couldn't all chip in to buy some and split it equally to bring the cost down of having to spend so much at once. But then again, I am trying to get around that issue by hybridizing for rust resistance, so treating for rust would defeat that purpose....

beckygardener said:John - I hear ya! Too bad we couldn't all chip in to buy some and split it equally to bring the cost down of having to spend so much at once. But then again, I am trying to get around that issue by hybridizing for rust resistance, so treating for rust would defeat that purpose....

If enough people lived in the area to form a daylily club it's possible. I've heard that in some places, clubs make large purchases and split the cost between members. In fact, a couple of us have talked about a daylily club in the general area of Marion County and The Villages, but we havn't done anything about it. Yet.

Cabrio is cheap, compared to other things. I know one commercial grower who, when I asked how me controlled rust, showed me a container of something (I forget the name) that he said cost $400.
That's a major 'ouch' for me, but then, he sells daylilies by the thousands.

farawayfarmer said:

"Expensive" is a relative term. When you live on SS, anything over $9.95 has to be considered carefully. LOL

Yes I hear you. When I first got into daylilies and I bought the Cabrio at $185 I had to rob a bank

That stuff in Cabrio requires suiting up IMO:

Morbidity and Mortality Weekly Report (MMWR) --Acute Pesticide Poisoning Associated with Pyraclostrobin Fungicide

http://www.cdc.gov/mmwr/previe...


Not wanting to pick on Cabrio specifically, but all this stuff is dangerous.

Pat - That is why I prefer to try to hybridize some rust resistant daylilies.

I got an email from Sue who I think heads up the Daylily Rust email chain:

Hi All,

This list has been quiet for a while, I hope you're all having a good
summer.

The reason I'm writing is that there is to be a university study on
daylily rust that requires rust samples from multiple sites in the USA.
Submissions can be kept private but your general area would need to be
known. Shipping of the rust to the researchers could be paid if desired.

If you are able to supply rust samples for the study please let me know
either through this list or privately (make sure to send to my email
address if private is preferred as responses to posts are otherwise
automatically sent to the whole list). I will then collect and send
your email addresses on to the researcher who will take it from there
(please also include your name if I'm not likely to recognize your email
address). Quite a lot of isolates from different areas are required so
as many of you as possible please assist if you can.

Thanks,

Sue B

If anyone has some leaves with rust that they would be willing to send to the university to study, let me know. Send me a tree-mail with your personal email address and full name and I will pass it on to Sue who will pass it on to the university.

I am not sure of which university that Sue is in correspondence with, but I thought I'd post the link to the Cornell University study:

http://plantclinic.cornell.edu...

It has a short list of some of the daylily cultivars that show susceptibility as well as resistence to rust, so it's worth reading if you haven't already seen this link.

Thanks Becky, I'll plan to add some of those plants to my collection.

Sent you a message too about contributing some rusty leaves.

Thanks, Pat!

I, too, am planning to donate some of my rust fungus for the good of daylilies!

I know I saw rust on one of mine but I sprayed with the Dawn and now it is gone. Really! I got rid of all my rust susceptible daylilies and purchased rust resistant ones, I did not want any problems since I live in a hot humid area. They all got rust anyway. That is why I pay it no mind anymore, if I did I would not be able to enjoy them. the same goes for spraying chemicals. I will just cut them off and let them grow back.

Kudos to those who are furthering rust research by donating leaves to the study Becky cited above. As for resistant daylilies, there may be confusion about what resistance means. It doesn't mean that a daylily will not get rust, but that resistance results in less rust appearing on the plant than those that are ranked as susceptible, and thus a better ability by the plant to recover from it.

In general, cultivars ranked as resistant show less than 50% of the plant's surface covered with rust pustules when exposed to rust. This has been noted as being visually acceptable (rust is often on the underside and ends of leaves), easily trimmed, allowing the plant to entirely self-recover without the need for chemical treatment (as Virginia notes), and indicates that a cultivar may be a good choice in hybridizing toward resistance in future generations.