Fuchsias forum: how do you get the different kinds of fuchsias

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Name: david sevitt
jerusalem israel
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davidsevit
Jul 25, 2015 7:42 AM CST
lately i have broken my fear from all different kinds of propogation.for example fuchsias.
i put them in a bottle in a humid area and...bob"s your uncle the root like wild fire.
how can i widen my variety of colors?
i am a little bit tired of seeds system in other plants?
there are not so many types of cuttings in my surrounding i can take from gardens.
Name: Zuzu
Northern California (Zone 9a)
Forum moderator Plant Database Moderator Charter ATP Member Region: California Cat Lover Roses
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zuzu
Jul 25, 2015 1:17 PM CST

Plants Admin

I buy mine from local and mail-order nurseries. I don't have the patience to propagate from seed or cuttings. Smiling
Name: david sevitt
jerusalem israel
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davidsevit
Aug 3, 2015 9:19 AM CST
zuzu said:I buy mine from local and mail-order nurseries. I don't have the patience to propagate from seed or cuttings. Smiling


actually you get a plumeria by mail?!
Name: Zuzu
Northern California (Zone 9a)
Forum moderator Plant Database Moderator Charter ATP Member Region: California Cat Lover Roses
Clematis Irises Garden Ideas: Level 2 Celebrating Gardening: 2015 Plant Identifier Garden Sages
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zuzu
Aug 3, 2015 11:51 AM CST

Plants Admin

Yes. In fact, I've acquired all of my plumerias by mail because my local nurseries don't carry them.
Name: John
St.Osyth Nr Clacton on Sea. E
Region: United Kingdom Hybridizer Garden Ideas: Master Level Ferns Butterflies Salvias
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midnight21
Oct 11, 2015 5:34 AM CST
Hi David

A Bit late answering, but here goes. I have been Hybridizing fuchsias for around 25 years, and some of my plants are now for sale all over the world. Here is the way I do it. I hope it makes sense.
Choose a flower which you wish to pollinate. Pick a flower which is at the top of the plant and about to open. Open the bloom with tweezers or a small pair of scissors being careful not to damage the STYLE or STIGMA. Remove the FILAMENTS and ANTHERS from the bloom, again being careful not to damage the STYLE and STIGMA. This is now known as the SEED PARENT. This process is known as EMASCULATION. Having already chosen a plant that you wish to use as the pollinator make sure that the pollen is fresh. The pollen may be attached to viscine threads (appears sticky) or may be small grains of dust that are hardly visible. Various factors of heat, wind and humidity can affect the pollen. You can also have sterile plants and infertile pollen. It is believed by certain experts that 8am to 10am is the optimum time to carry out this cross pollination, but I have done mine at all times of the day. The plant from which the pollen is obtained is now known as the POLLEN PARENT. You need to carefully collect the pollen from the ANTHERS of the POLLEN PARENT either by removing the ANTHERS or the complete flower and transfer the pollen to the STIGMA of the SEED PARENT. Some people use small paint brushes, others their fingers. There are various schools of thought about what should happen now. Some people believe that the STYLE and STIGMA should be covered to stop further pollination’s by insects or wind. Others believe that the pollination, if successful, is like human fertilization and that once the pollen has taken, the door is shut to further pollen grains. I believe the latter to be true. For various reasons not all pollination’s will take, or seed set. You may have one seed, 30 or more or none at all, even in a seed pod that seems apparently ripe. I now keep records of the SEED PARENT and POLLEN PARENT for every cross that I make, plus ensuring I keep a label in the pot. I also put either a long thin computer label or coloured twist tie or some other item carefully around the PEDICEL to denote which flower I have pollinated. I also use coloured wool, giving each cross of the SEED PARENT a different colour. Anyway if and when the seed pod (OVARY) swells and ripens you should remove it and place it on some paper, such as kitchen roll or newspaper. With white paper you are more able to see the seeds. Using a sharp blade such as a scalpel open the seed pod to see if seeds are present. They are usually small, brown, and quite hard, although they may be larger and lighter in colour. Even if the seed appears to be immature it still may germinate. If there does not appear to be any seed present check the area where the PEDICEL joins the seed pod (OVARY). Sometimes a single seed may be found. Carefully remove the seeds to small trays or pots. Push the seeds into moist compost but do not cover. It also helps to put the seeds near to the edge of the pot and to cover with a clear plastic cup to maintain the humidity. do not exclude light. The ideal temperature is around 64 degrees. Germination times vary from a few days to a few weeks, so be patient. When the seeds germinate and are large enough, transplant to individual pots. There are various methods people use to keep a track of the cross. I prefer to label them as follows. I number them with the year, then the plants number. So this years plants will 2015/01, 02 and so on. I also keep a record in a notebook. This needs to be done for every cross pollination that I do. When the seedlings are large enough, I take cuttings, again making sure that I label them correctly. Cuttings will grow quicker and stronger than the original seedling. Providing I have been successful with the above I will grow and test the plant/plants for at least three years and to start showing to people to get their opinions. If a nursery likes it then I release it. I then register it with the American Fuchsia Society. Alternatively you could grow it for your own use, after all it is your plant, and whatever other people think you will love it! Have a try - and good luck.

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