The rain keeps falling and some of the scapes have broken today.

A part of my garden in the rain.


AWESOME CANDY whose red doesn't run in the rain


KING LAMONI whose red pigment can run in the rain


HIGH ENDEAVOUR


RED BULL scape snapped under the weight of the water from the rain


NOID is an unknown, excellent performer


ELIZABETH SALTER


PIKES PEAK


CLEDA JONES acts as a vigorous evergreen here in the subtropics


Hello Della. How are your lovely seedlings going this season down in the beautiful Tasmania? @dellac

I must put Parrot Jungle on my want list:) Of all the pictures you've posted Glen, I like that NOID clump picture the best. Great color and nice scapes above the foliage

Vickie, it attracts much attention in the garden with its tall scapes of vibrant blooms. People are always are asking for its name.
And I haven't got one.

Gleni said:

Glen, what is that plant to the far right (center) in this photograph?

Looks like a variety of kalanchoe to me.

I am so glad your back and starting our winter season with blooms. Still very warm here, but my plants are cut back.

James is correct. It is from a group of kalanchoe often called Flap Jacks.

This is a picture of it when it was smaller. It has flowered in between these two pictures. Great looking and easy to propagate.

Nifty looking plant--thank you both for the identification.

I'm glad the hail didn't get you Glen. Red Bull is stunning - always catches my eye.

Much rain over night. Scapes are basically intact.

Two cultivars flowering first for the season today

GINNY MITCHELL


I always look forward to the Martian invasion of THIN MEN and its madcap madness. Both clumps have started flowering.



Some others today

SUMMER LIGHTNING


TIFFANY GOLD


CLASSIC ROMANCE is growing on me. Very fetching.


BILL NORRIS. One of my Stout's collection. This clump is doing very well. The other one , its partner, is still a single fan and 6" high after two years.


BROOKWOOD LEE CAUSEY. I love the blooms but it is a rust bucket here. Such a shame because it has mobs of proliferations.


JORDAN VERHAERT. The blooms are a bit low in the foliage.


HEARTS AND LACE is a great bloomer but a rust bucket here


SKINWALKER I have a terrible time photographing it in the garden. The trouble is the back grounds are awful.
In the beginning I was worried buying it because it is described as a dormant. But it is a semievergreen here if not evergreen.


MALENY DEBUTANTE is the best known of Scott Alexander's hybrids. This is its first year flowering in the garden. I quite like it.

Sent my Thin Man to a new home, it didn't like Texas.

Love the colors on Classic Romance, and the pattern and colors on Brookwood Lee Causey.

I love the Get Jiggy bloom! I just acquired that one this Fall. I had heard that it shows off the pattern in warm climates. I also like your NoID clump! Very beautiful! All your foliage looks pretty good, too! What a wonderful show of blooms! Wishing I was there to see them all in person.

Becky and Debra, I just noticed I had not pressed the finished button on the previous post which had more blooms to it. Age is withering me.

Becky I was warned about GET JIGGY not displaying its pattern well but it has always performed in this regard here.

Here is it last year .

Glen - Yup! I love that bloom! Great warm weather pattern! Thanks for sharing last year's photo, too! Definitely worth using in my quest to hybridize something unusual.

The first year I had Get Jiggy it did not show its pattern. The second year the pattern was very nice and has been since.

Thanks! I will keep that in mind in case it is one that needs time to establish before struttin it's stuff!

Glen, how do you control rust down there? Love the bloom you said was on a rust bucket. I dont know why I never thought you might fight rust as well, guess I just get wrapped up looking at pictures. Could be a just missed a thread on it.

Pam I have been slack with the spraying this year. I have been mainly snipping the leaves but there comes a stage where the plant has to have something to photosynthesise with. Rust comes on strong in spring here. Some of my new seedlings in pots are only now just getting it. There is a noticeable reprieve in the colder months. I have usually followed the advice Michelle gave me several years ago in the first of the Southern Hemisphere threads. Does Michelle still post?

tink3472 said:

I have never heard of that and I don't think any of the copper fungicides have ever been proven to help with rust. I would assume that the copper fungicides are a contact fungicide so it would only kill the visible spores. You really need a systemic fungicide to get inside the plant as that is where it begins; what you see is in less scientific terms the end result of the infection.
I'm not sure what would be available where you live but what has proven effective for me is Headline, Banner Maxx (I use the generic-can't remember the name as there are a few), and Daconil liquid (I buy the professional size generic named Docket). If you Google these and get the active ingredient name it is easier to find generic brands that are usually less expensive than name brands. I tell everyone that you can get the granular form of Headline, it's called Cabrio, for a lot less than the liquid Headline and it will last awhile for someone who doesn't have lots and lots of daylilies (I can't remember if you ever said how many you have).

I rotate the Headline and Banner Maxx (they are the systemic fungicide) and add the Daconil (contact fungicide) every time; I do use Nickel plus as well. Some people spray weekly and others spray every 2 weeks; it's usually NOT a one time spray and you are done if you live in warmer, moist, humid climates. I start spraying before the rust ever shows it's face and have not seen rust here at all this year except on seedlings that are not sprayed. I make sure I saturate the plants and let it run onto the ground to get any hiding spores. These sprays may or may not cure rust but it has been said that Headline may have curative effects. The problem with rust is the spores can blow in from 60 miles away (I'm sure a lot further) so if you did get rid of it then it blew in from down the way it could possibly re-infect the plants.

Some people don't want to spray or can't and they just get rid of the "rust buckets" and tolerate the others as it is usually just certain times that rust appears. For someone who doesn't want to spray then they can cut the plants all the way down to where the green of the fan turns white (rust lives in the green) and dispose of the foliage and any dead debris in the garden and then hope there aren't any spores to re-infect the plants. From what I understand is rust spores need an opening in the foliage to get in so I would suggest actually spraying with some type of contact fungicide even if the person doesn't want to use any other chemicals so the spores that hide in the mulch or anywhere for that matter will be killed. Especially since you just given rust the biggest opening to get in when you cut the foliage. I have heard that Dawn soap acts as a contact fungicide (I think from Mark Carpenter) but I can't vouch for that; I use Dawn anyway as a spreader/sticker when I spray. It needs to be the regular or I guess they still call it Original Dawn, not the kind that is anti-bacterial or has bleach or other stuff.


Do you get any freezes at all in your area. If so then maybe just keeping the debris cleaned up and maybe cutting back the plants once right before you go into winter may help without spraying. We don't get cold enough here for that to happen even though we can get occasional freezes.


I hope some of this helps.

I havent seen her post since last winter, but I did get nice plants from her in the spring.

This was my only casualty last winter. I just suddenly noticed it was gone last month. Just like that. It was quite a vigorous plant once.

BELOVED DECEIVER