I do not rotate anything else, I am not a daylily collector so most daylilies stay here less than two years. One exception are my own intros which have not been effected by not rotating, I have more trouble with spider mites than rust.

Fred, how often do you spray for rust?

The reason we're advised to rotate between different fungicide groups is to reduce the chances of the fungus becoming resistant to any particular fungicide. Alternating with another fungicide with a different mode of action makes it harder for that to happen because the fungus isn't always being exposed to the same fungicide and therefore potentially being genetically selected for any ability to resist its effects.

The strobilurin fungicides (Group 11) like the one you're using are considered high risk for fungicide resistance happening, and if it happens with one strobilurin then the fungus will be resistant to ALL other strobilurins and those fungicides will also no longer work, or work as well. From what I understand though, while resistance to strobilurins has developed rapidly with some fungal pathogens, it hasn't so far with rusts. Let's hope it stays that way because they're so far the most effective for daylily rust.

Pat I spray twice monthly from spring through fall, once monthly Oct. through March. I add a water soluble fertilizer to the spray each time I spray for rust. (16-4-8) or something similar, if I have to spray I may as well feed them.

Sue I have dealt with rust since 2001, I have tried all the rotation ideas and anything else that has been recommended by the higher ups, I have spent a lot of money trying different things, I now do what works for me and had rather not get into a drawn out discussion over this subject. Please don't take this the wrong way, I just don't care to get into it.

Thanks Fred...I'm hoping that the winter temps will kill the rust that I picked up this spring from a California grower. If not I will start a spray routine. Our weather is usually a bit colder than it is now...yesterday we were over 70 degrees. Cool down already!

We are suppose to cool down some after the rain tomorrow, we have been 77-78 and should be about 10* cooler. I want complain, the baby seedlings are really growing.

Had I known the weather would stay so nice for so long I would have planted some seeds that I received from a very generous dear here on ATP. I received them in October, but was afraid to plant them so late in the season...and this would have been my first try at starting daylilies from seeds.

I put my other beds down for the fall a couple of weeks ago....fertilized, cut back, and mulched. Now I'm bored!

spunky1 said:
Sue I have dealt with rust since 2001, I have tried all the rotation ideas and anything else that has been recommended by the higher ups, I have spent a lot of money trying different things, I now do what works for me and had rather not get into a drawn out discussion over this subject. Please don't take this the wrong way, I just don't care to get into it.

Sorry, Fred, I should not have asked that first question, got carried away with enthusiasm at the thought that you might have done so. I have deleted it.

The rest of my post certainly wasn't intended to start a discussion with you on the subject, sorry again if it came across that way. It was in the hopes of encouraging those new to treating with rust to rotate (primarily if planning to use high or moderate risk products) by explaining that it is to reduce the risk of fungicide resistant mutations getting started in daylily rust.

Green Magic is a contact spray. It works well, but its not a control product. It doesn't nothing to control the rust, it only kills the spores that it comes in contact with.

It wont harm your plants. I have used it multiple times this year with no ill effects. Its a Biodegradable degreaser. You would have to up the concentrate on the degreaser to non-suggested levels to harm your plants.

Simple green, or 1 TSp. dawn per gallon will in effect work the same way.

Again this will only kill the spores you can contact.

Nysbadmk8 said:

Simple green, or 1 TSp. dawn per gallon will in effect work the same way.

Again this will only kill the spores you can contact.

The original study that found dishwashing liquid had effectiveness against daylily rust used it at 1% per measure of water. It was UltraDawn (most likely lemon, definitely not the antibacterial) in whatever formulation it came in at the time (early 2000s). Math is not my strong suit but, if I've got this right, according to my conversion app, a US gallon contains 256 tablespoons (or 768 teaspoons). That would make 1% a dilution of 2.56 tablespoons (or 7.68 teaspoons) of UltraDawn per US gallon of water. Don't anyone try this without checking my math first

I don't believe they tested any other strength so I'm wondering, Peter, if you've tried this and found a teaspoon per gallon effective? It would certainly be better if one could use less, especially outdoors, but that's quite a significant difference.

The study is at:
http://www.uoguelph.ca/%7Ethsi...

sooby said:

The original study that found dishwashing liquid had effectiveness against daylily rust used it at 1% per measure of water. It was UltraDawn (most likely lemon, definitely not the antibacterial) in whatever formulation it came in at the time (early 2000s). Math is not my strong suit but, if I've got this right, according to my conversion app, a US gallon contains 256 tablespoons (or 768 teaspoons). That would make 1% a dilution of 2.56 tablespoons (or 7.68 teaspoons) of UltraDawn per US gallon of water. Don't anyone try this without checking my math first

I don't believe they tested any other strength so I'm wondering, Peter, if you've tried this and found a teaspoon per gallon effective? It would certainly be better if one could use less, especially outdoors, but that's quite a significant difference.

The study is at:
http://www.uoguelph.ca/%7Ethsi...

Your math might be better then mine. The One tsp/ gallon is mark carpenters formula. I've only used green magic so far. Once I'm out of it, I will switch to dawn/simple green.

I checked out Mark's article and indeed he does mention I teaspoon per US gallon but I interpret it as he adds it at that rate to systemic sprays, not clear if that's a stand-alone rate as well? It seems very diluted compared to the original research. I know some people use dishwashing liquid with sprays as a surfactant. It would be interesting to test UltraDawn at different strengths.

I have no "in-field" experience, so I cant speak to the effectiveness. But I might be more inclined to use the 1% of volume ratio first rather then the 1 teaspoon in light of that research paper.

Thanks Sue.

I have followed this thread with great interest. Though I don't have rust outbreak in my garden yet, it will undoubtedly surface someday. (Murphy's Law) Does anyone know at what temperatures range will the rust spores get killed off? Should I remove daylilies foliage for my area to be safe? Also, do rust spores get carried on seeds?

Question 3 on this FAQ addresses the temperature question:
http://web.ncf.ca/ah748/FAQ.ht...

Unless you have rust already, I don't think there's any reason to remove foliage. If you do get rust at some point it may help because you're close to the borderline area for rust winter survival, which is roughly considered to be Zone 7 (if you winter mulch that would possibly increase the risk by preventing more foliage from dying back). If you had patrinia plants in the vicinity then it could overwinter much colder than zone 7 as it does in Asia, but so far it doesn't seem to be doing that in North America. Usually when it re-surfaces in colder zones it is because it came back on new plant arrivals that year.

In theory, yes it could get carried on seeds from an infected garden. But the spores would have to remain viable until there was green growth from the seed otherwise they'll eventually just die. The spores would also have to get onto the green growth otherwise they can't infect (more likely where people germinate seeds all together in a baggie or seed starter or something and not in soil, so that they touch each other).

Your link is very helpful and I bookmarked it for future reference. :thankyou:, Sue.

Hi. might have been another thread where someone asked wh DL suffered badly with rust. In the interest of spreading knowledge that I would like to have had a few years back, I say:
In my garden in subtropical Australia at 28 deg latitude about 8km from the coast, some that almost always have awful foliage are:

DROWNING IN DESIRE
CURLY ROSY POSY
JEDI SUE McCORD
CLOCKWORK

maybe they will improve when I can give them better growing conditions.

Many others I have look terrible for a time, then look OK. We have mild temps all year round and often have showers or periods of prolonged rain.

http://www.daylilyrust.org/sur...

This url has link rot. Does anyone know what happened to these results?

Hmmm .... I don't know, Glen.

But in looking for a redirected link, I ran across Mark Carpenter's old article again and thought is was worth mentioning his link again:

http://www.lilyfarm.com/rust.h...