spunky1 said:Xenacrockett, I would like to know which daylily farms are using this stuff for daylily rust. I have been going to most of the big growers for several years and all I have been told is they use the high dollar products that I use. It would be great to spend $20 instead of several hundred every year.

Roycroft was one of the names given I believe. plus at least 1 local farm has used it.
You'd have to get more from Green Magic producer, Lynn Treece.
You need to use what is in your range of comfort, imo.

Since part of my hybridizing is for rust resistance/tolerance I need my hybridizing garden with small amounts of rust.
And I have a fair amount of plants now that just don't show rust.
I have acreage and my sales garden is clear plus plants are treated before shipping. No complaints thus far.

I'm trying to grow plants in similar conditions that the average homeowner/buyer would.
Most wouldn't have access to Cabrio or want to use it. So an option like Green Magic is good.

Although rust is now limited here, this month I plan to cut back and remove foliage
and then spray 4 oz Green Magic per gallon to more or less eliminate remaining rust since I plan
to do heavy (for me) Spring selling.

Pat - You peaked my interest by several things you wrote. What is the name of your garden/nursery? Do you have a website? (If so, please share.)

I was just reading about chrysanthemum rust and how they dip the stools in hot water 115 deg F. Temp has to be precise, then into cool water. Might work on daylilies if they had small crowns. ???

Also I have put one I transplanted in the fridge for a few days and briefly in the freezer. I wrapped it in newspaper, then in plastic bag. It didn't develop rust but it turned out to be one that is pretty resistant anyway.

If I ever decide to get rid of a bad ruster I would first try those tricks, then try growing it inside as we don't have heating or air con. Would be good to find out if it worked. Can't see me doing it to all my plants but might for ones I was giving away.

I agree with comments in another thread saying that plants in full sun in hot areas, get stressed and even if well watered they don't resist rust well if that is their nature. Especially if, as here, there a fair bit of wind. I am beginning to think that some shade which means less watering is the way to go for me. The blooms would fare better.

I once tried a hot water dip for daylilies to try and kill bulb mites. The plants survived but unfortunately I don't remember the temperature I used. I might have a note somewhere - a friend tried the same thing at a slightly higher temperature than I did but her daylilies died fom the hot water treatment. Whether it was hotter than the chysanthemum rust treatment I don't know. With daylily anatomy I'm thinking it may not get hot enough between the leaves (which I imagine you'd mostly cut off). I'd test it to see if the plant would survive that temp but my daylilies are all buried under snow. (Just curious, why "small crowns"?).

Refrigeration isn't likely to kill daylily rust, and freezing may well need to kill the foliage in order to kill the rust inside, in which case there's the risk of killing the whole plant. Also cold per se doesn't kill daylily rust spores. Daylily rust does persist in areas of the USA that freeze periodically in winter. If the leaves can survive the freezing there's a chance the rust fungus body (mycelium) can survive inside them. I've had daylily leaves survive -8C (17.6F) here and still be capable of being infected with daylily rust when I tested them indoors.

Some people use the following method to reduce (not guaranteed to eliminate) the risk of transferring rust to another garden:

http://web.ncf.ca/ah748/newpla...

Sue: (Just curious, why "small crowns"?).

I was thinking that one would remove all green bits as per the recommendation for new plants. The narrower the diameter of the remaining crown, the better prospect of the heat being conducted across all of the tissue, and not just the outer layer.

They dipped for 5 minutes. See https://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/...

The hard part for me would be keeping the bath water evenly at the temperature for even that long.

The freezer part of our fridge is set at -19deg C which is about 13 deg F. Wouldn't that kill the mycelium but not the daylily? I would try the freezing trick in autumn some time when the plant had stopped flowering (some flower here best in our midwinter after a little rest from last bloom). I would remove all the green foliage, wrap it to try and avoid freezer burn. (Maybe it would need to be in peat or something???) Leave it there for a fortnight, then grow it inside.

I am thinking that is would be all worthwhile for when I want to give a plant to someone who doesn't have any daylilies. I don't want to start their first experience of daylilies to include rust. But I am a bit busy to try these things just yet.

As we digressed on the other thread but people may not see this there, daylily rust is not a systemic rust so it doesn't need to be killed inside the crown.

I would expect that freezer temperature to kill the daylily if it is in there long enough, although the period of refrigeration first may help it acclimate. The daylily I tried it with years ago died anyway. May be less likely to die if it has been outside in cold weather first. They can take that temperature here in winter (they're getting it today ) but not straight into a freezer in summer.

bron said:
The freezer part of our fridge is set at -19deg C which is about 13 deg F. .

Hopefully this will only drift the thread a slight amount.
I'm pretty sure that the temperature recommendation for frozen food storage is 0°F. It was something I read years ago, but it might be worth checking on.

Ken

According to my temperature converter -18C = 0F. That's the temperature for a home freezer. So I think Bron has it set OK but the conversion to F wasn't right.

sooby said:According to my temperature converter -18C = 0F. That's the temperature for a home freezer. So I think Bron has it set OK but the conversion to F wasn't right.

Aha - you're right! I focused on the Fahrenheit.

Good catch.

Well, three days ago, I included dishwashing liquid as a possible 4th segment in my monthly rotation of spraying for rust. I am trying Earth Choice dishwashing liquid - it has no bactericide added (I mix one part to 100 parts water). It takes forever to spray several hundred clumps by hand, alas, but I am curious.

The interesting thing is, the next day, the leaves looked sooo good on all the clumps - I mean really good. I am sure, however, it was trick of the light, which was filtered through whatever it is now deposited on the leaves.

I will give them three weeks and spray again with it. However, I am an empiricist - if it doesn't work, at least as a contact fungicide, it is down the kitchen sink with it.

I think you will be pleased Glen. By golly, surprised as I am, it seems to be working for me better than any chemical. Altho cold today..like 40 something, it has been a very warm winter and things just seems to be thriving without some soap spray. I think I lost alot when the holidays started coming and I just could not keep up my summer routine. The ones that havent died, look better than ever. Guess mother nature might be my best, but most brutal culler. Left me with what will do best for me. Mother nature Im afraid doesnt take $$$$ into account

Well, all my daylilies had aphids really bad, so I used the soapy water to kill them. Now most of my daylilies are producing new leaves and they DO look better! Will be interesting to see if the soap affects the leaves during Spring/Summer rust season. We have colder weather currently, but will spray the leaves again perhaps this weekend.