Katie said to put this here and if the admins wanted it elsewhere, they would move it.

If you have purchased any garden hose with ALUMINUM end fittings/couplers, you should be aware there is a warning (small print) on the BACK of the package label that cautions users to remove the hose from the faucet and any attachments a minimum of 3 times a year! You should remove the couplings from ANY Brass connections as often as you can think of it (even if every time you use it). If you do not, the aluminum WILL FUSE to any brass connection!

This is a result of Galvanic Corrosion, a condition that occurs between two dissimilar metals pressed together (aluminum coupler (hose) to brass fitting (faucet). Aluminum and brass are far apart on the ‘dissimilar metals’ chart and will corrode/fuse quickly. The more water there is present, the faster the corrosion/fusing.

For instance, if connected to a brass ‘ball’ valve (a one-into-four splitter, for instance), and you let it connected too long, when you eventually use some channel lock pliers to get it off, the male end of the faucet will unscrew from the ball housing and the whole thing will pop off and the male faucet end will be stuck in the aluminum female coupler.

Even worse, if connected to a house hose bib, this fusing will cause a costly repair as the entire faucet body will have to be removed and a new one installed.

I discovered this problem myself by leaving an aluminum hose attached to a hose bib that had a one-into-four splitter for a couple of months. When I went to remove the hose, I had to use channel-lock pliers to get it off. As it came off, I didn't notice it was turning the brass male faucet end, not the aluminum female coupler. Suddenly, the whole thing popped off and water was shooting everywhere. Fortunately, turning off the main faucet saved the day. I shudder to think of what I would have had to do if it had been on the main valve (running to the house supply, turning off the water main, unsoldering the faucet body, getting a new one, soldering the new one in place, turning on the main again). Think about all that water going everywhere, digging a big hole in the ground!!!!

I would recommend wrapping 2-4 turns of Teflon tape around the male ends of any connection to help reduce fusing of the connection. Even better, remove the connection to both faucet and whatever you have at the other end after each use.

If you have recently purchased one of these hoses, return it (if you can) and get one with BRASS fittings. If you haven't purchased one, DON'T. If you have one beyond the return period, just keep it removed after use.

I'm trying to post to as many sources/forums as I can but, please, forward this everywhere you can to spread the word about these dangerous hoses.

Good advice. Thank you for the warning.
My husband had explained to me about the reaction between dissimilar metals. I'll try the Teflon tape; sounds good!

Many times I pick up hoses that have been discarded as trash (free is good) but I buy a plastic fitting and place it between the hose and the faucet; that seems to work.

I would also suggest, if you use tape, get the good stuff like the brand "monster" the cheap stuff will just tear as you thread the ends together.

Welcome, SilverCBX! There's a ton of good information (and very helpful people) here, but this's the first time I've heard this. Thank you!

I had that happen with a new 3/4 hose I bought at Fleet Farm.
I saw no warning.

It had a life time warranty, I called the company.
They told me I was not the first person to call them on this and that they had fixed the problem and sent me a new hose free of charge when I sent them the paper work on the label.
I put a new end on the bad one and now have two heavy duty hoses.

One way to help avoid the problem is go to a automotive store and get anti-seize compound used on aluminum cylinder head bolts.

Good information, @RpR.

One warning about using the tape, if the threads cut through the tape it will still fuse.
I found this out the hard way.

@silvercbx Went to Lowe's last week for a new hose and MOST had aluminum fittings. I remembered reading your post and opted for brass.

I can attest to this as being true after having to replace my hose bib. I went to disconnect the hose with an aluminum female hose fitting to use it on a camping trip and it would not come off. I attempted to use a giant pair of channel lock pliers to remove the hose and it started to bend the pipe. I struggled with trying to put the pliers on the hose bib and use a pipe wrench on the aluminum female hose fitting and still could not get it off. I ended up having to take a map gas torch to the hose bib to take it off the pipe and sweating/soldering a new hose bib onto the pipe. That hose and hose bib went in the garbage!

I cannot, hardly belive that !
?😕? No ! Wait !
I can !
$$$$$$$$
Please ! Anybody buying a hose. Buy a rubber hose. I've never seen one, that dosent have brass fittings. They may cost twice as much, but they will last a lifetime. Sears, craftmans, has a lifetime warranty. You wont be dissapionted.
😎😎😎

RpR said:

One way to help avoid the problem is go to a automotive store and get anti-seize compound used on aluminum cylinder head bolts.

Advodendum:
If one still comes across this problem, there are some new break-free products designed for auto bolt use that are far , far better than those from twenty years ago and often work.

Often work, huh. That means they also often don't work.......LOL

drdawg said: Often work, huh. That means they also often don't work.......LOL

You don't know till you try.
Anti-seize always works.

I don't really know anything that you are talking about. I purchase brass fittings, not aluminum. That takes the guesswork out of it, right?

drdawg said: I don't really know anything that you are talking about. I purchase brass fittings, not aluminum. That takes the guesswork out of it, right?

Supposed to, but I have done enough plumbing to have found out, what is supposed to be some times is not.
Anti-seize always works.

Being a plumber, you would know this. Brass fittings on hoses has been the standard for probably 100 years. It's certainly not hard to tell aluminum from brass, right? Perhaps there are now alloys that look like brass, but are not. But the hose label will tell you what you are getting.

I plumbed only out of necessity, when I studied auto mechanics using anti-seize (an ABSOLUTE must with current alloy content) was hammered into out heads BUT sadly Detroit put cost over reality and there were lot of galvinic problems they knew and ignored.
I much prefer plumbing with automotive fittings than compression fittings, prefer galvinized pipe over plastic.
I do not study the paper labels on hoses , I have faucets that are ferrous and others that are copper alloy (brass) and some plastic crap also.
I have a bottleof anti-seize and use now more often than the tape so many think cures all ills if I am apprehensive on materials used.


Corrosion & Corrosion Resistance
Galvanic Corrosion
The issue of corrosion poses an extreme concern in design. One
of the first questions a designer must address when analyzing a
fastener application is whether the fastener will be subjected to a
corrosive attack during service. It is important to understand that
there are several different types of corrosion including galvanic
corrosion, concentration-cell corrosion, stress corrosion, fretting
corrosion, pitting, and oxidation. The most common form of
corrosion is rust (oxidation) associated with steel structures and
fasteners, although the effects of corrosive attack can be seen in
many other structural materials.
Corrosion can be thought of as an electro-chemical action in which one metal is changed into a chemical
or simply eaten away. When two metals are in contact with
each other in the presence of some electrolyte, the less active
metal will act as the cathode and attract electrons from the
anode. The anode is the material which corrodes.
A simple means of visualizing what is occurring is to consider
the action of a battery. If two metals are immersed in an acid,
a saline, or an alkaline solution, a battery is formed. This
battery produces a flow of electrons between the two metals.
The flow of electrons continues as long as the metals exist, the
solution remains acidic, saline, or alkaline, and as long as a
conductive path connects the two metals.
In the case of galvanic corrosion, the combination of two
dissimilar metals with an electrolyte is all that is needed to form
a reaction. The use of dissimilar metals in structural design is
fairly common, particularly cases where the fastener material is
different from the structure being joined. Furthermore, the
electrolyte may be present in the form of rain, dew, snow, high
humidity, ocean salt spray, or even air pollution. Thus,
designers must take into account the reactivity of the metals
being joined.
All metals have some kind of electrical potential. The
"Galvanic Series of Metals and Alloys" chart above provides a
realistic and practical ranking of metallic electrical potentials.
The alloys near the bottom are cathodic and unreactive; those
at the top are most anodic. The various metals which are
grouped together are reasonably compatible when used
together; those in different groups may cause a corrosion Rev 3-4-2009
problem. Some metals, especially those with significant contents of nickel and chromium, are included in
the table in both their active and passive conditions. Passivation, (i.e.: surface cleaning and sealing)
lowers the metals electrical potential and improves its corrosion behavior. As the series suggests, steel and
aluminum are relatively compatible, but if brass and steel contact, the steel will corrode because it is more
anodic than the brass.
If brass and aluminum plates are connected by a passivated 304 stainless steel bolt, both the brass and the
aluminum will corrode severely where they touch the stainless steel
because they are much more anodic than stainless steel. The
aluminum plate will corrode more heavily due to it being more
anodic to stainless steel than brass is. The aluminum will also
corrode where its exposed surface contacts the brass plate because
brass is more cathodic. A Plating Compatibility Chart is provided
above that may be used to aid with fastener selection based on
galvanic reaction

Thanks for all the useful information. What is your doctorate in?