@sunnyvalley, perhaps it is a Tequila Sunrise rose?

Thanks for the suggestion but this is a miniature grocery store rose. It was labelled 'Kordana' so it is definitely one of the Kordes pot rose series just difficult to say which one. It has done very well in the garden, winter hardy and healthy.

Sometimes I have to laugh at myself when I look back at my gardening practices over the years. I decide to do one thing and then reverse the process a few years later. About 10 years ago I removed many OGR's from my garden because each one took up as much space as four or five modern roses. I filled the spaces with the mini-roses I'd been growing in pots along my driveway and with hybrid teas. Unfortunately, the minis got lost in the ground and never looked as good as they had in the pots, and the hybrid teas were mostly own-root roses from Vintage Gardens, which were fragile little darlings when I bought them and either died a quick death or remained fragile little darlings for the next 10 years. Now I'm cutting my losses and putting OGR's back in those spots. One large and healthy rose bush easily trumps five little weaklings.

Thank you Zuzu for your last post! I'm slowly understanding why grafting roses has been in practise for centuries. An accepted reason is that it makes rose growers easier to multiply stock. Nowadays I have no doubt that that is an excellent reason. However hidden is the question of longevity compared and that takes decades before comparisons can be made. Added to that the question is site specific. Perhaps it will take a few more decades before the question is settled. I'm happy that I started to learn how to graft roses. Even OGR's although they are usually grown on own roots. I haven't found anywhere where this question has been setttled in the long run with detailed research. That's my scientific mind again....

Zuzu, I am sure many of us have experienced the same in the garden. Although sometimes I have made decisions that have already proved to be wrong the following season! I am constantly learning about what works and what doesn't. If I stuck to the plants I have I would eventually get it right but I am always introducing some new varieties and the learning curve starts again.

Zuzu, have you decided which OGRs you'll be using? I've gone back and forth on this too. Japanese beetles have been more problematic here the last couple of years, which has me thinking I should try more OGRs. Since they bloom before the beetles emerge, they put on a great show without problems.

As for own root verses grafted, I'm finding it dependent on the variety and a matter of trial and error. Thankfully the own root plants I got from Chamblee's this spring are all performing quite well, a couple are even close to catching up to the grafted plants in size.

I prefer tea roses. I already have about 30 of them, and they grow into fine-looking rose bushes, with lots of rebloom. In general, their blooms appeal to me more than other blooms. I used to have lots of Bourbons, but I have only a few left because they're more prone to black spot and other types of pest and disease damage than other roses in my garden. Noisettes are nice, but they're the biggest roses in my garden, so I have to have a huge space if I want a new noisette. Most of my China rose bushes have an unattractive shape, jutting out in all directions. Gallicas don't do their best in my zone, so I'll avoid getting any more of those.

In general, I'll avoid once-blooming roses from now on. By the way, I think it's funny that whenever someone expresses dissatisfaction with once-blooming roses, someone else will treat this as a non-issue by mentioning all of the wonderful perennials and shrubs that also bloom only once a year. It's true, of course, but that's why I've tended to get rid of those wonderful perennials and shrubs, replacing them with reblooming roses.

I'm glad you're having good luck with Chamblee's plants, Neal. Most of my OGR's came from there. In fact, most of them cost only $5 during the annual overstock sale that's no longer a Chamblee's event. Of course, that was also when Chamblee's shipping fee was $2 per rose. Chamblee's rose prices are still fairly low, but the shipping costs are through the roof.

Great year for roses in Calgary. Here's a new one. It is the Old's College Centennial Rose. Zone 3 hardiness

And, John Davis is gorgeous this year

Hi, Joanne. Good to hear from you. Great pictures, as always. In 2013 your Olds College Rose was almost pink, and this year it's almost orange. Those apricot blends certainly are changeable, or is Olds College Centennial Rose different from Olds College Rose?.

Rose (Rosa 'Olds College Rose')

Joanne, John Davis is truly gorgeous!

Beautiful, Joanne! I love the combo of plants with John Davis, such a gorgeous garden!

Thanks everyone. Zuzu, it is the same rose. This year it is very peachy.

Joanna, I just read you article on Epson salt - very interesting - and was wondering if I should try it out on my roses. My roses have just finished their first flush and I have notice a bit of yellowing on some of the plants so it is time to give them a boost. Do you think I would notice a difference this season if I applied the Epson Salt with my fertilizer and if so how much - I think you mentioned a cup per rose in your article - sounds like quite a bit? Would appreciate your input.
PS. I know some members are going to advise a soil test first and I plan to would just like to hear your opinion as well.
Thanks

Edit:
@Joannabanana - just re-read the article - only half a cup - but still seems a lot?

Hi Sunnyvalley,
There is lots of growing season left, yes indeed. I usually apply the Epsom Salts monthly during the growing season. It will help to kickstart a new flush of blooms.
You can't really over apply the Epsom Salts. It is not a fertilizer. What it does is help the plant uptake the nutrients. I'm a lazy gardener and apply the Epsom Salts around the rose and let the rain or when watering dissolve and soak it in. It takes a while (several days) for the full cup to dissolve.

Joanne ...

I do want to add a caution about epson salts ... it is a salt and, yes, depending upon your soil, it can be over applied. It's primary benefit is that it adds magnesium to the soil. If your soil already has high magnesium content, that can be counter productive. Also, if you are gardening in highly alkaline soils, adding any kind of salts should be done with caution. A soil test is indicted.

In my current garden, I agree, Epson Salts is very beneficial and I love it. When I was gardening in San Diego, it would have set the plants back. So, as usual, it depends ...

Epsom Salts are not sodium chloride (table salt) it is a mineral magnesium sulfate. Also the pH of Epsom Salts is neutral and has no effect on soil pH. To learn more about Epsom Salts go to: www.epsomsaltcouncil.org
There is a section for gardening.

Testing your soil is always a good thing. We have high alkaline soil in Calgary. But it is the water that changes things for gardening. In July, the water can have a pH as high as 8.3 or more. Rain water is best for the plants and amending the soil helps too.

Joanne ...

You are right. The site I was using was wrong. The ph of ES is basic. Thanks for the heads up.

No problem. It took me a while to figure out that it was our tap water that keeps the alkaline high here.

@Joannabanana going to give it a go. So far I have only used ES on my potted conifers.