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Aug 17, 2016 11:02 AM CST
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Name: Zara

Last edited by Shaliquinn Aug 25, 2018 11:57 PM Icon for preview
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Aug 17, 2016 4:53 PM CST
Name: Rick Corey
Everett WA 98204 (Zone 8a)
Sunset Zone 5. Koppen Csb. Eco 2f
Frugal Gardener Garden Procrastinator I helped beta test the first seed swap Plant and/or Seed Trader Seed Starter Region: Pacific Northwest
Photo Contest Winner: 2014 Avid Green Pages Reviewer Garden Ideas: Master Level Garden Sages I was one of the first 300 contributors to the plant database! I helped plan and beta test the plant database.
They sure will want bright light for at least 16 hours per day (or 12). I'm not familiar with LED lights, but if I look at such plants growing indoors, and they aren't lit up bright enough to dazzle my eyes, I would try to give them more light.

If "too dim" is the problem, I would expect tips of branches to elongate after a week or two, and everything under the top 12" to turn pale green, then yellow, then die over a period of weeks.

Did you have to dig them out of the ground and pot them? That could cause stress, like cut roots or unsuitable soil for a pot. How big a pot? How big a plant? Too small a pot could cause stress.

When you water indoors, does water come out the bottom of the pot? If not, the soil is pretty water-retentive and might be drowning the roots. But take that with a grain of salt: I ALWAYS suspect that poor drainage is the problem indoors.

Using hard or dense outdoor natural soil in a pot might result in compacted soil, reduced aeration, and excessive water retention (that is to say: root rot.) If that's a problem, you might put the pot on something elevated several inches, and set it down on an absorbent, wicking pad of fabric. Dangle the fabric off the shelf and down several inches, letting it drip into a saucer or something. That wick will help dense soil a little by pulling perched water out and giving the roots a little more chance to get a little air. This imitates the action of being in real soil outdoors, where the entire planet acts as a wick on your perched water. You can't make a pot "like" the outdoors, but you can patch up some major problems. Next time use a chunkier, soilless, fast-draining potting mix for indoors.

Leaning the pot over carefully while supporting the plant, then wiggling the root ball loose so you can look at it may tell you something. If it is rootbound, with MANY thick white healthy roots crowding the soil, pot it up to a bigger pot. If you see no roots at first and the soil is dense and wet, poke around a little, breaking soil away.

If it has FEWER roots than when you put it in the pot, and they look skinny and shriveled like white threads, they have been rotting and dying and NEED the old dank soil shaken off and really re-potted into new, better-draining potting soil. Most bagged potting soil that I've bought needs coarser stuff added, like grit, bark shreds, or Perlite. Very VERY coarse sand could be good, if you can find it. "Crushed rock" is more likely to have COARSE sand than a bag of anything labelled "Coarse Sand", which is likely to be 25% fine sand and 50% medium sand. Look for grit around 0.1 inch or 2-3 mm.

But I'm just guessing at things that might have gone wrong while bringing them indoors.

>> so they have been out there for a week slowly what appears to be frying but only on the bottom veg,

It would help us guess if you can take and post a few photos, some close-up and some far, showing the pot size and light setup.

Also another description of what's visibly wrong, like pale-green or yellowing bottom leaves, or brown-to-black, twisted leaves or leaf tips (necrotic). Little holes (insects).

That will hopefully draw more suggestions and better advice or better questions.

Good luck!

P.S. They won't like it very humid indoors. A big plant or several plants might wnat a fan unless you have very low humidity or a breeze in their growing room.
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