Weedwhacker said:Okay then... but to me ANYWHERE in Texas is "in the south" !!

You're not alone! Most people think that and forget that the Panhandle exists!!

Barbalee said:

You're not alone! Most people think that and forget that the Panhandle exists!!

That's okay -- there are a whole lot of people who have no idea the entire upper peninsula of Michigan exists...

(on the other hand, there are apparently a lot of people who DO know we are here, because the traffic was pretty awful this summer!)

'I spoke to several State professionals and they said treat it fall, spring, summer -- fall, spring, summer -- till it is gone"

Surprising, I would have said that sounds more like a schedule for quackgrass rather than crabgrass.

Maybe it's a case of the more kill the merrier for both of 'em, Sue!

You gave me a giggle, Sandy. I needed that!

sooby said:'I spoke to several State professionals and they said treat it fall, spring, summer -- fall, spring, summer -- till it is gone"

Surprising, I would have said that sounds more like a schedule for quackgrass rather than crabgrass.

There is no control for quackgrass unless you are going to use a complete vegetation killer.

Out side of quackgrass spreading into flower gardens, which is a major pain in the buttocks; quack grass will form or simply become part of lawn grass, up here any way.
I put blue grass sod out by my alley two years in a row to watch it turn most dead brown in warm dry weather, even with watering, so this year I was going to pull it up and resod again but saw that quackgrass which was, as the sodder told me probably already in there began to spread and now it is starting to look more pasture sod.
I will let it go and if it looks decent next spring just let it go.
My neighbors along the alley is strictly quackgrass and does not look bad at all but I dug the dandelions and a few other weeds out of it also.

Not as neat as genuine sod grass but can get thick enough to be lawn. I have a lot of it on the lawn edge and beyond as I said, it spreads where it is a problem in gardens, in the lawn unless you have a pure fescue lawn it is not worth the effort to deal with from my experience .

I have found one way to control it in gardens is dig down to the rhizomes, or if it is running along a wall or foundation, dig real deep to the brown root , I had it running along the house foundation about 12 inches deep once, and paint it with systemic weed killer.
A lot of work but if you keep at it better than digging up the whole garden and probably missing a broken rhizome piece that will quickly present you with the same problem all over again.

I did some searching and here is a list of the best crabgrass killers.
Quinclorac comes in both powder and liquied form.

http://www.bestreviews.guide/c...[matchtype]=b&google_params[network]=g&google_params[device]=c&google_params[creative]=93045095183&google_params[keyword]=crabgrass%20killers&google_params[adposition]=1t1&google_params[adgroupid]=28765972103&google_params[campaignid]=611589595&bs=f0b85ac6_b2f4_4878_956a_93594dbecd67&google_params[feeditemid]=&google_params[targetid]=kwd-367103926&google_params[loc_interest_ms]=&google_params[loc_physical_ms]=9020126&google_params[devicemodel]=&google_params[target]=&dest=0&sys_id=0|164&gclid=COvMuIz8iM8CFQ2MaQod6J0ACg

"There is no control for quackgrass unless you are going to use a complete vegetation killer."

Actually there is, or at least labeled for it. (Called Certainty but the label a few years ago removed cool-season grass use). Some people do use glyphosate (Roundup) for spot treatments in lawns. But yes you're right, I was forgetting we were talking about weed grasses in lawns only here!

In our "lawn" anything goes as long as it's green - for whatever reason we don't have any crabgrass in it, it was elsewhere that I've seen Dimension used on crabgrass (same active ingredient as the Bonide and Hi-Yield I think you mentioned earlier RpR). An advantage with the active ingredient, dithiopyr, is that it also has some post-emergence activity on crabgrass as long as it is at an early enough stage of growth. All it took was one well timed application a year or two ago and the crabgrass was gone and so far hasn't come back.

There's a good article on crabgrass control below. They do mention a fall application (October-November) may carry over and still work as a spring application in some trials with some products and in some areas where that was tested but seemingly not all. So where and with whatever it does work, it's not intended to be actually active in the fall, which makes much more sense.

http://turf.unl.edu/NebGuides/...

One thing to bear in mind with these selective herbicides in turf is that one needs to know what the desirable grass species are that one has growing there in case they too are susceptible to the product as well as the target weed grass.

Edited for clarity

Great article, Sue. Thanks!