The last few years I have tried to germinate L. Speciosum Album/Rubrum seeds that I purchased from NALS. I know that it takes 4-5 years to grow them to blooming size. I also know that they are Hypogeal (3 months warm, 3 months cold) Some maybe immediate or delayed. The last time I tried, I started them in vermiculite. I just check the baggies and nothing. (maybe too wet). Could not find any seeds. This year I just started more seeds that I got from NALS. (new 2011 seed) I am starting them in peat moss. I placed them on a heat pad. Should you place the baggy in the dark or light to germinate the seed? Has anyone in this group had any luck in germinating/growing them from seed?

Thanks

I have germinated them before (then killed them later ).

Nowadays when I use peat moss I wet it down in a glass bowl then cook it in the microwave. This takes care of gnats or gnat eggs that seem to be carried in peat mixes. Try this.

Then to germinate, I did it at around 60 deg. Warmer than Western Americans but not real warm.

Maybe you got bad seeds. You don't really know what you are getting from NALS since they are all donated from volunteers. If you can grow your own parent bulbs you will know your seeds are fresh.

Take them off the heating! I'll wager that pad is hovering around at least 80 degrees if it doesn't have a thermostat. Mine said it was suppose to be 70-75 and it heats the soil to 85 if the flat sits directly on it. Of course, it will depend somewhat on the ambient temperature of the room, too.

If your seeds disappear after planting, then they rotted. Even if they don't actually germinate, they should plump up. I tried in vain practically all winter one year, attempting to get germination of L. speciosum var. rubrum at variable 68-70 temperature. To make a long story short, they finally germinatied when I moved them to 60-62 degrees. I didn't make a point of it, but they were exposed to indirect light.

Pards right: you may not have viable seed to begin with. if you still have any unplanted seed, see if you can candle them. The embryo is easy to see in this species.

I always start with being very stingy with water if I am starting seeds in baggies and I can monitor the seeds' progress. If the seeds plump, there is enough water. Too much water might actually prevent germination (as well as promote rot), though they seed will still plump. I have had no germination with some seeds (other lily spp.), until I opened the bag and let the medium dry a little.

MAYBE A MISPRINT

I am looking at a book "The Complete Book of Lilies" by F.F. Rockwell, Esther Grayson and Jan de Graaff Page 172 under Germination Table 1

Epigeal - Immediate -- which includes the following species It has a list of species but what surprise me is listed under this group Speciosum v. gloriosoides. Can this be correct. I thought it was Hypogeal - Delayed?

Thanks

Sounds squirrelly. McRae says in his book that L speciosum germinates hypogeal with some forms delayed and others immediate. He didn't specify which were which. So it could be the gloriowhatsit is immediate but hypogeal, not epigeal. I haven't tried this kind from seed. It is kind of hard to find.

I can vouch,its definately wrong Might find some seed this year coming

Yes Anthony, assuming our seeds are true L. spec. var. gloriosoides (I have no reason to think otherwise), mine germinated delayed hypogeal, too.

I've tried an experiment with Stargazer and an unnamed (not very attractive either) oriental to see if I had any luck with them. The seeds were placed in slightly damp vermiculite and put in a warm dark cupboard. Many have germinated and will soon be going in the refrigerator with the rest of my hypogeal seedlings. Oddly though I did have a few that sprouted a leaf without having been cooled.

I have been told that in using very fresh oriental seeds, that it is possible to get a leaf without the fridge time. I have had it happen several times myself.