sooby said:I haven't used it personally, but some use acephate (Orthene) for aphids, which is also systemic. Some people don't want to use imidacloprid because it's a neonicotinoid (and therefore believed to be a particular problem for bees).
I don't normally use Imidacloprid on flowering plants - I keep it around for scale and mealy bug on my succulents and Fat Plants. Bayer claims 30 days of residual effectiveness, so I figured that a few applications in January wouldn't "bee" a problem.
I originally bought the 3-in-1 for the Imidacloprid. This is the first time I've sprayed for rust, so until now, the fungicide in 3-in-1 was a tag-along. I don't really care for multi-purpose garden products because they add unnecessary chemicals to the environment. I'd much rather use a single chemical to remedy a problem. Particularly insidious are the pesticide/fertilizer blends. I often wonder how many neophyte home gardeners are putting pesticide-laced fruit and vegetables on the table because of these multi-purpose products.
With regard to Orthene, I've been left with the impression that it's more hazardous to the environment than Imidacloprid. (unless you're a bee). If it was a choice between Orthene or aphids, I'd put up with the aphids, or just take a hose to them. They tend to be seasonal/transitory anyway. Insecticidal soaps work well, but the majority of aphids seem to be hidden out of the reach of sprays.
I bought some Honor Guard (propiconozole) which I'll probably alternate with Heritage if any significant rust pops up later. Because of our dry summers, rust is mostly a spring/fall problem, so spraying should be minimal.
