Viewing post #1076394 by RickCorey

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Mar 8, 2016 6:16 PM CST
Name: Rick Corey
Everett WA 98204 (Zone 8a)
Sunset Zone 5. Koppen Csb. Eco 2f
Frugal Gardener Garden Procrastinator I helped beta test the first seed swap Plant and/or Seed Trader Seed Starter Region: Pacific Northwest
Photo Contest Winner: 2014 Avid Green Pages Reviewer Garden Ideas: Master Level Garden Sages I was one of the first 300 contributors to the plant database! I helped plan and beta test the plant database.
William, you asked some of the same questions I had. Also, I was not sure what "Chinese Asters" were: Callistephus chinensis as you suggested, or Cotoneaster microphyllus. So I didn't even try to guess.

>> I checked the propagating spreadsheet over at that OTHER site ( Whistling ) and read (to my dismay) that they have to be in the freezer first for a minimum of 5 days.

I have heard one or two people saying that freezing seeds (even when dry!) breaks some kinds of dormancy in some seeds. But I never heard that in a source that seemed to have a technical background.

I would only freeze seeds to kill insects and their eggs ... or store them for more than 4 years ... and I would get those seeds darn dry first!

I agree that cold moist stratification usually takes more than five days to break the dormancy (like 2-12 weeks depending on genus), and germination might take another 2-8 weeks for some plants.

I couldn't find starting advice for Callistephus chinensis .
The old T&M germination guide had a suggestion for Cotoneaster, but that is probably NOT "Chinese Aster".

Cotoneaster - Hardy Shrub
- Germinates in 180-365 days at 70F in Acid Peaty Mix
- NEEDS LIGHT TO GERMINATE
- slow and irregular germination
- "See No.15. (3-5 months at 70'F then 3 months in frig) or No. 16."

#16 is winter-sowing

#15 is "Double Dormancy": some species need time cold, like a few weeks or months, THEN time warm. Or time warm, THEN cold, THEN warm again.

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