Viewing post #414681 by RickCorey

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May 28, 2013 7:57 PM CST
Name: Rick Corey
Everett WA 98204 (Zone 8a)
Sunset Zone 5. Koppen Csb. Eco 2f
Frugal Gardener Garden Procrastinator I helped beta test the first seed swap Plant and/or Seed Trader Seed Starter Region: Pacific Northwest
Photo Contest Winner: 2014 Avid Green Pages Reviewer Garden Ideas: Master Level Garden Sages I was one of the first 300 contributors to the plant database! I helped plan and beta test the plant database.
>> was thinking PVC but was wondering about this hose you are using.

I'm not sure which is cheaper for a long run. For LARGE diameters like 1 inch ID, and flow rates over 480 GPH, PVC is good for long, straight runs. But I think you have to glue PVC, and it is rigid and can't be curved around beds or adapt to uneven surfaces.

But a 100 foot roll of 1/2" will support 240 GPH and only costs $16 from Dripworks. I shopped locally and found 100 feet of 3/4" mainline for $20. They have a 50' roll or 1/2" for $10.

I used to like the Compression fittings because they never restrict the flow. But they are HARD to push on! Now I like the screw-type "EZ-Loc fittings, like 90 cents to $2.60 each. And I like the irrigation-tubing-to-hose -thread Tees and ends because then I can add a garden hose, or a Y or a valve anywhere in the system .

P.S. If you order from Dripworks or find a shop, buy many extra "male hose end caps". Only thirty cents each! Then, when you need to leave a male hose fitting exposed as you drag it over rocks and gravel, screw a plastic cap over the hose end. It keeps the threads unscratched and free of grit. I leave one of those caps on any unused Y branch, just to keep dirt and grit off the threads and out of the valve seat.

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