You cannot claim to have a top mulching lawn mower if it does not leave clean cuts in your grass. Dull blades subject grass to trauma because of tearing and not cutting grass. Aim for a clean and healthy lawn by maintaining the blades for clean cuts.
About the Mulching Blade
The mulching blade has a bend that helps create a lift in the mowing deck. The lift cuts the longer grass into small pieces before falling on the ground. During sharpening, the bend may cause problems because the cutting edge stretches to the curved section.
For you to maintain the top mulching lawn mower, sharpen the blade at least twice every season to get better results.
Tools for Sharpening the Lawn Mower Blades
• Gasoline container from the nearest store
• A spray can for painting
• A block of wood (preferably with thick edges)
• A socket wrench and driver
NOTE: A mowing blade including the dull ones have sharp edges that can cut through your hand when handling them.
Follow the following steps when sharpening the blades:
Step 1: Remove the Spark Plug Wire
The spark plug wire prevents accidental starting when working. If you have worked with a top mulching lawn mower, you can easily spot the plug on the front section of the engine. Use your hand to pull the wire as tools may cause some damage.
Step 2: Drain the Mower's Gasoline Tank
Use a separate gasoline container to drain the gasoline tank and to prevent leakages during the entire process. Some mowers have a drainpipe that you can use for draining purposes. The other alternative is to tip the mower when draining.
Step 3: Accessing the Mower Blade
By tipping the mower over, you will be able to access the blade easily for removing and eventually sharpening.
Step 4: Place the Mower on the Block of Wood
Use the wood by placing it between the blades and deck to avoid turn when loosening it
Step 5: Spray Some Paint into Blade's Surface
Use a little paint to mark the top, so you do not have problems when re-installing the blade once you re through with sharpening.
Step 6: Loosen the Nuts Holding the Blade
It is a nut no bigger than 5/8-inch hence the socket and a driver. Use the gloves to get a grip of the blade as you make the nut loose.
Step 7: Position the Mulching Blade in a Vise
Getting the best position gives you the best grip during the sharpening process. Make the vise tight as you center the blade with the cutting edges pointing upwards.
Step 8: Sharpen the Blade
By holding the file at the same angle as the cutting edge, you need to push it towards the blade's edge. File the straight portion of the sharp edge until it sharpened. Pick the narrow file when dealing with the curved blade sections. The file gets in between the blades effortlessly. Keep doing the same until you achieve the sharpness you are looking for.
Step 9: Test the Sharpness
Testing the lawn mower blade requires that you hang it using a small nail bored at the center and see if it hangs evenly. Look for the heavier side (the side that points towards the ground) and file it until you get some balance.
Step 10: Restore the Mower
Take the blade and put it back inside the mower's shaft. Always use the gloves to avoid scratches when tightening the nut.
When using a small handy tool for sharpening, avoid the creation of notches on the cutting edges. The idea is to sharpen both sides of the blade equally.
Do whatever it takes not to rush to transplant them. Dependent upon the sort of succulent, the earth, the pot size they're in and the mix they're creating in, every 3 to 8 years is fine. They'll esteem some fresh mix by then.
Most succulents don't require repotting all the time in light of the fact that their root systems are nearly nothing, they don't root significant and can progress toward becoming swarmed okay. Succulents aren't dejected with respect to treating and continuing. I have 6 thorny plants creating outside in a low bowl with a 7″ opening and 3″ stature – they're doing okay. I will transplant 2 of them soon in light of the way that they're getting excessively tall and it's the perfect open door for the new mix.
I regularly repot my succulents not long after I get them to get them in with the general mess I'd like them to create in. Another clarification behind transplanting is that they're surpassing the pot.
Taller creating succulents, like my Pencil Cactus and Euphorbia trigona rubra, will require repotting even more much of the time. As they create tall, they'll need a more prominent base to support them.
I love this 3-headed Ponytail Palm which I acquired in a 6″ pot at the Santa Barbara Farmers Market around 8 or 9 years earlier. It's been transplanted on numerous occasions. You can see how planted it in this tremendous blue pot here. I can see it from my receiving area and parlor region which is the reason it gets the terrifically significant point of convergence as a bit of hindsight patio!
Here is: How to Transplant Succulents, you can check it.
Chrysanthemums are a great plant to have in your garden to fill the landscape. While you might want to plant them as quickly as possible, it is important that you understand how to do this first. Only when you understand the planting process will you be able to get these plants to their full and beautiful potential.
When Should You Plant?
Spring is the best time to plant because it offers this perennial the time to establish itself and adapt to the garden. You will be able to pick up these plants at garden centers in the fall and spring. However, you need to plan ahead to ensure successful planting.
It is very tempting to buy huge fall plants, but if you want better longevity, the smaller spring plants will be a better option. The root system of these plants will become stronger in the summer and fall allow them to better survive winter. When you plant in spring, you will also get larger blooms in the next season. If you are buying fall plants, there is a chance that they will survive the winter if planted immediately, but the odds will be better in the spring.
How Hardy Are They?
When you visit the garden center, you will notice that many of these plants are referred to as hardy and there is a reason for this. The majority of these plants are winter hardy for Zones 5 to 9. Certain varieties such as the Mammoth Daisy will be winter hardy to Zone 3.
When you shop for these plants, you need to check the labels. This will ensure you are buying the plants that are right for your planting zone. Local garden centers and nurseries will generally have varieties that are suitable for the local area. You should avoid buying these plants from floral shops because they have different plants and they will generally be less hardy.
What Soil Is Best?
It is possible for these plants to survive in most soils, but they will do their best in well-draining soil that offers consistent moisture. When you grow these plants in soil that is hard and dry, the roots will have a hard time establishing while wet and boggy soil will drown the roots. It is important that you find a good middle ground.
If you are planting other perennials, you will already know how to plant chrysanthemums. To create good soil, you need to work the ground to a depth of 8 to 12 inches. You should then work in 2 to 4 inches of organic materials such as peat moss or compost. To test the soil, you should squeeze a handful and when you open your hand it should not fall apart quickly or clump. The soil should start to crumble.
How Much Sunlight Is Needed?
These plants are sun lovers, but they technically only need 6 hours of sunlight each day. However, the more light the plants get, the better they grow and bloom. If you are in a warmer gardening zone, afternoon shade is recommended to prevent any scorching.
These plants will bloom because of their photoperiodic nature. When the plants sense a chance in the length of darkness, they will start to set buds. The bloom time of the plants can be altered when they are planted close to artificial lights such as porch or security lights. If you want to know more about the conditions they need to grow then check out this comprehensive post at Gardener's Path.
Does Spacing Matter?
It can be very tempting to place these plants close together, particularly when you have spring plants. However, you need to keep in mind that these plants will reach 3 feet in height and width by the fall. They are also going to continue growing each year.
Spacing is vital for the health of the plants. When the plants are too close together they will compete for nutrients, have issues with their roots and they can suffer from disease. The spacing you should adhere to will vary depending on the variety you have.
If you have a garden, you have to ensure that you make preparations for the cold season during fall. Adequate prepping is what will guarantee a great spring. Autumn is the best time to prepare your soil so that you can have fewer soil problems when the growing season arrives.
If you have any plants or flowers like these ones, that are summer bloomers, Autumn is the best time to remove them so that you can clean up the soil and clear out any remnants left after the summer. This way, the garden will have a beautiful appearance before winter sets in. The plants that are going to be left during winter will appreciate the TLC that they gain from garden prep in the fall.
A good idea to maintain moisture in the soil is mulching. You can do this to ensure that there is enough moisture in the soil for the plants to overcome the first bout of cold. Look for plants that can enhance the appearance of the garden. Fall is the time that most trees shed, so you can use the leaves to mulch any new crops that you will have. With the moisture in the soil and the dead leaves, the crops should thrive. The dead leaves are great for manure. Autumn does not necessarily mean that you need to put an end to all kinds of gardening.
Fall is also a great time to plant vegetables if you love having veggies from your own garden. Vegetables like cabbage and radishes do well in the fall, even with the cold setting in. They are the best kind of crops to grow in this weather because they will be ready in a few weeks so you can harvest some in the first few weeks of winter.
It is a good idea to cover the plants that may become affected by too much cold. Use any grass, dead plants, or leaves that have fallen to do that. They should provide enough nutrition and lock in the moisture in the soil. The nutrients that they provide will suffice the plants all the way through spring of the next season. You could be surprised at how fertile the plants will be in the Spring once you use this method. The process also ensures that the garden looks neat.
Fall is a great time to do systemic herbicide on plants that are likely going to be affected by pests or too much cold. If you have tubers that may die in the cold, dig them up and put them indoors. You can put them in a shed and transplant them when it gets warmer.
Getting rid of plant debris ensures that there is a minimal chance of pests and diseases during the winter. It also prevents weed seeds from remaining in the soil and becoming a problem when it becomes warmer. Remove all the compost and use it as cover for plants that are sensitive to cold.