Start Small, Think Big

A small, well-tended garden can be just as productive as a large one that sits neglected. The secret is to start with a manageable size, focus on what you actually like to eat, and build from there. A kitchen garden of 100 to 400 square feet is plenty for one person or a small family; gardeners with larger spaces and more time can grow enough to preserve for winter.

Pick the Right Location

Most vegetables need at least six to eight hours of direct sun a day to produce well. Full sun is best, especially in cooler northern climates. Plants grown for their fruits, such as tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, beans, cucumbers, and squash, are the most sun-hungry and will yield poorly with less than six hours of direct sun. Leafy vegetables like spinach, lettuce, and chard can tolerate some light shade during part of the day, though they'll always do better with more sun.

Take time to assess your yard over a full day or two. Trees and buildings that are leafless now will cast shadows as the growing season progresses. If you're concerned about afternoon heat in very hot climates, an east or south-facing slope that catches morning sun but escapes the harshest afternoon heat can be ideal.

Beyond sun, other site factors matter:

Drainage. Plant roots need air as well as water. Check your soil's drainage by digging a hole about 10 inches deep, filling it with water, letting it drain, then filling it again and timing how long the water takes to drain away the second time. If water remains more than 3 to 4 hours later, poor drainage is the problem. Raised beds are the quickest fix. Heavy clay soils drain poorly and warm slowly in spring; sandy soils drain too fast and dry out quickly. Both improve with organic matter.

Convenience. Build your garden close to the house and to a water source. When the garden is easy to see and reach, you're more apt to tend it regularly and notice what needs attention. If you plan to bring in truckloads of soil amendments or compost, choose a spot accessible by vehicle.

Wind. In windy areas, a windbreak (several rows of plants or a fence) protects tall crops like corn and pole beans from being knocked over and dried out. Plant your garden downwind at a distance three to five times the height of the windbreak.

Design Your Garden

Once you've found a good spot, sketch the garden to scale on graph paper, using a grid of 1/4-inch squares with each square representing one foot in the garden. Outline the beds in pencil and fill in the crops you want to grow.

Garden size. A 20 by 20-foot garden gives plenty of room for a wide range of crops, including space-hungry ones like corn and winter squash. A 10 by 12-foot plot is sufficient for a sampler with greens, herbs, a few tomatoes and peppers, beans, cucumbers, and edible flowers. A 400-square-foot garden, tended at a half-hour a day at the beginning of the season and a half-hour every 2 to 3 days through summer, will keep most gardeners well supplied.

Beds and paths. Grow plants in 3-foot-wide beds instead of single-file rows. This reduces weeding and watering needs and increases yield per square foot by cutting the space wasted on paths between rows. Use 18-inch paths between beds so you have room to walk without stepping on the soil. Vine crops like squash, cucumbers, and pumpkins do fine in 1-foot-square beds spaced 3 to 6 feet apart. Corn and climbing peas and beans work best in single rows.

Orientation. For best sun exposure, orient garden rows east to west, with the tallest plants on the north end. This reduces the chance of taller crops shading shorter ones.

Layout smarts. Allocate space for paths right in your plan. Don't overplant early; leave room for succession plantings later in the season. If you include flowers and herbs, they take no extra space and attract beneficial insects while brightening the garden.

Prepare the Soil

The ideal garden soil is a rich loam with excellent drainage. But if your soil is heavy clay or pure sand, don't despair. With time and effort, both can be greatly improved.

Test before you till. Have your soil tested to determine its fertility needs and pH level. Most vegetables prefer a slightly acidic soil with a pH of 6.0 to 6.8. Lime raises pH (helpful in high-rainfall areas); sulfur lowers it (useful in the arid West). Your state university's cooperative extension service can test soil inexpensively or provide a kit for self-testing. Check every three to five years.

Timing matters. Wait until the soil dries out in spring before tilling. Tilling or working wet soil will compact it badly. To test if soil is dry enough: squeeze a handful of soil into a ball and poke it with your finger. If it crumbles easily, it's ready to work. If it sticks together in a hard lump, wait.

Add organic matter. Good sources include compost and well-rotted manure. Work the soil to a depth of 8 to 10 inches with a garden fork or tiller, then mix in the organic matter. If you have fresh grass clippings, leaves, or other raw organic material, compost them first, as fresh material can tie up nitrogen as it decomposes.

For a 12 by 16-foot garden (almost 200 square feet), use about 30 pounds of aged chicken manure, 75 pounds of horse or cow manure, or 75 pounds of commercial compost; use twice as much for a 20 by 20-foot plot.

Raised beds. Many gardeners swear by them. The soil warms faster in spring, drains better, and you can control its quality. You can purchase raised beds or build them from wood, stone, or concrete. Remove the sod beneath, loosen the underlying soil, and fill with a mix of topsoil and compost. Alternatively, simply rake garden soil into 8-inch-high mounds with sloping sides.

Fertilizer at planting. If your garden is on previously uncultivated soil, apply an organic fertilizer with approximately 5 percent nitrogen per 200 square feet. Broadcast it evenly over the beds and rake it into the top few inches of soil.

Understand Your Growing Season

Your climate determines what you can grow and when to plant it. Cool-season crops tolerate frost and prefer temperatures in the 60s; warm-season crops need warm soil and air and will be killed by frost. Knowing which is which is the key to timing your plantings.

Cool-season crops. These include many kinds of greens (spinach, arugula, lettuce, Asian mustards), root crops (carrots, beets, radishes, turnips), and members of the cabbage family (broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, kale). They germinate and grow in cool soils and actually taste sweeter after a light frost. Plant them in early spring for a spring harvest, and again in late summer for a fall and early winter harvest. Spinach is one of the hardiest and can go in as soon as the soil is dry enough to work.

Cool-season crops can be started as seeds or transplants:

  • Hardy crops like spinach, arugula, and peas go directly in the ground early. Spinach and arugula germinate in soils as cool as 40 degrees F.
  • Cole crops like broccoli and cauliflower benefit from an early indoor start. Harden off transplants and set them out 4 to 6 weeks before your last spring frost.

Warm-season crops. These are the heat lovers: tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, beans, corn, okra, and members of the cucurbit family (cucumbers, melons, squash, pumpkins). They need warm soil and air, require 60 to 70 degrees F soil temperature for germination, and will be killed by frost. Plant them only after the soil has warmed and the danger of frost has passed, typically 2 to 4 weeks after your last spring frost date.

Some warm-season crops must be started indoors to have time to mature before fall frost arrives:

  • Tomatoes, peppers, and eggplant need a long head start. Start tomato seeds 6 to 8 weeks before their outdoor planting date (which is about 1 to 2 weeks after your last frost). Start peppers and eggplant 8 to 10 weeks before planting out, as they grow more slowly. Plant them deep in the garden, up to the first set of leaves; they'll form roots along the underground stem.
  • Corn and beans do best direct-sown where they're to grow; transplanting damages their roots.
  • Cucumbers, melons, squash, and pumpkins can be started early indoors, but they resent root disturbance. Sow them in biodegradable pots that can be planted whole, or just direct-sow once the soil is warm, as direct-sown plants usually catch up and even overtake transplants.

Nature's calendar. In northern areas with predictable spring flowers, you can use phenological signals to time plantings. When crocus blooms, direct-sow the hardiest crops: broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, garlic, kale, kohlrabi, onion sets, peas, potatoes, radishes, spinach, and turnips. When tulips and daffodils bloom, plant beets and Swiss chard. When apple trees blossom and lilacs flower, plant bush beans, sweet corn, pumpkin, and squash. When tall bearded iris blooms, plant pole beans, lima beans, cantaloupes, cucumbers, eggplant, peppers, and tomatoes. These signals work well if you live in the North but are less reliable in mild climates or the South, where cool-season crops are planted in fall instead.

Direct Sowing Seeds

Many crops, especially root vegetables and crops with large seeds, can go directly into the garden.

Prepare the planting area. Mark the rows with string and stakes if you wish, leaving 2- to 3-foot aisles between rows (wider for vine crops). Smooth the soil in the rows with a steel rake, breaking up large clods and removing stones and debris.

Sow at the right depth. Plant seeds at a depth equal to two to three times their diameter. Large seeds like beans can be spaced on the soil surface and pushed into the soil with your finger. Small seeds like carrots are scattered across the prepared row and sprinkled with soil, then the soil is tapped down gently with the back of a hoe or your hand. For single-row plantings, make a furrow at the proper planting depth with the corner of a hoe blade, space seeds in the furrow, and cover with soil.

Planting patterns. For wide-bed planting, use 1- to 3-foot-wide beds. For vine crops, plant 4 to 6 seeds in 1-foot-square beds spaced 3 to 6 feet apart.

Water gently. Use a gentle spray from a hose or watering can without disturbing the soil. Keep the soil evenly moist while seedlings sprout and become established. Protect young seedlings from frost with a floating row cover if needed.

Thinning. After seedlings emerge, thin crowded ones, especially carrots, radishes, onions, and beets, as soon as possible to give the remaining plants space to mature. Thin lettuce and other greens when they're large enough to harvest; you can pick outer leaves and leave the center to grow.

Starting Seeds Indoors

You'll need basic equipment: a fluorescent light fixture with cool-white bulbs (a shop fixture with two bulbs is sufficient), cell packs and small pots, soilless seed-starting medium, liquid fertilizer, and a small watering can. Optional but helpful: a heat mat to speed germination, an automatic timer for lights, and a small fan for air circulation.

Sow and germinate. Sow 2 to 3 seeds per cell of a cell pack, placing seeds 1/4 inch deep in moistened seed-starting medium. A heat mat speeds germination; otherwise, place containers on a warm surface like the top of a refrigerator. Once seeds sprout, move them under lights hung just a couple of inches above the young plants. Run lights 14 to 16 hours a day.

Thin to one per cell. When seedlings develop their first true leaves (the second pair that forms), cut off the weaker ones at the soil line with small scissors, leaving one per cell.

Transplant. When seedling leaves touch each other, transplant them into 4-inch pots. Fertilize weekly with dilute liquid fertilizer such as fish emulsion. Gently brush your hand over the seedlings a couple of times a day to develop sturdy stems.

Harden off. Seven to ten days before outdoor planting, prepare seedlings for outdoor conditions. Set them outside in lightly shaded spot for an hour or two on the first day. Gradually increase the time spent outside and the amount of sun they receive so they're well adapted before going in the ground.

Timing. Check your seed packet for days to germination and days to maturity. Plan backwards from your last spring frost date (if planting warm-season crops) to know when to sow.

Season-Long Care

Water adequately. Provide consistent soil moisture, especially right after planting and as edible parts form. Keep the top 6 inches moist for seedlings and young plants. Once plants are established, encourage deep rooting by wetting the soil at least 6 inches deep when the top 3 to 4 inches feel dry.

Mulch. Add a 2- to 4-inch layer of organic mulch (pine needles, shredded leaves, straw, or grass clippings from untreated lawns) around your plants. Mulch suppresses weeds, maintains soil moisture, reduces watering needs, moderates soil temperature, improves soil health, and keeps vegetables cleaner. Apply mulch after the soil has warmed in spring and replace as needed. Avoid herbicide-treated lawn clippings, hay, and fresh sawdust.

Weed and thin. Pull or hoe weeds as soon as they appear and while they're small. Never let weeds go to seed. Remove crowded seedlings to give the remaining crop room to mature.

Fertilize during the season. Each crop has unique nutrient needs. As a general rule:

  • Fertilize transplanted vegetables (tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, head lettuce, and cole crops) and corn about 3 to 4 weeks after planting.
  • Fertilize vine crops (melons, cucumbers, squash) when the vines begin to spread and again when they bloom.
  • Use 1 to 2 tablespoons of a balanced organic fertilizer like 5-10-10 per plant, or 1 to 2 pounds per 25 feet of row. Sprinkle 6 to 8 inches from stems and scratch into the soil.

Harvest to encourage production. Pick vegetables when young and tender for the best flavor and to keep plants producing. If seeds mature inside beans, peas, cucumbers, and summer squash, plants stop making new fruits. For leaf crops like lettuce, spinach, and chard, cut to within 2 inches of the ground to encourage new growth. Pull root crops as soon as they reach edible size.

Extend the Season Into Fall

As you harvest summer crops, you can plant new ones for a fall harvest. The key is selecting varieties that mature quickly as daylight decreases.

Fall brassicas. Cool-season crops like broccoli, cabbage, and kale taste even sweeter after being touched with cold. Since hot weather and pests are rampant in August, start seeds indoors or in a cold frame, then transplant 4 to 6 weeks later. Stout, robust transplants are tougher than fragile spring seedlings.

Good fall varieties include broccoli 'Small Miracle' (55 days from transplant) or 'Packman' (50 days); cabbage 'Early Jersey Wakefield' or 'Golden Acre' (60 to 65 days); and kale 'Red Russian' or 'Dwarf Blue Curled Scotch' (50 to 55 days). Broccoli raab matures in just 2 months and can be harvested as the flowers begin to form.

Fertilize with fast-acting liquid fertilizer to ensure quick growth. For foliage crops, use high-nitrogen products like fish emulsion. For heading crops, use a balanced formula. Water regularly with a soaker hose or drip irrigation. Mulch to conserve moisture. Watch for insects (aphids, whiteflies, cabbage worms, grasshoppers) and treat early; in cooler areas, lightweight floating row covers keep pests out.

Fall greens and root crops. Plant lettuce, arugula, spinach, carrots, beets, and radishes again in late summer for a fall or early winter harvest. Because daylight decreases in autumn, plants grow more slowly than in spring, so allow extra time for them to mature.

Planning for succession. Rather than planting everything at once, stagger sowings. For fast-maturing crops like lettuce and beans that mature in one to two months, plant a short row every 2 weeks until about a month before your fall frost date. This gives you a continuous harvest rather than a glut all at once. For longer-season crops, time the planting so they mature before the first hard frost. Check the days to maturity on the seed packet, count back from your fall frost date, and add an extra week or two since fall growth is slower.

Try International and Unusual Vegetables

Beyond the familiar tomato and lettuce, the world of vegetables is vast. Indian gardens offer bitter gourd (a climbing vine with warty, cucumber-like fruit) and unusual eggplant varieties like 'Harabegan' (green, elongated fruits in bunches). Oriental crops include asparagus beans (pole beans yielding slender 15-inch pods) and edamame, or green soybeans (harvested while young, steamed, and popped from the pod like a snack). French traditions give you fillet beans like 'Nickel' (small, slender, stringless) and Charentais melons (2-pound fruits with fine eating quality). Starting with even one or two unusual varieties each season keeps gardening exciting and your table interesting.

What to Grow and How Much

Start by growing what you love to eat. A productive kitchen garden might include two or three lettuce varieties (plant at 3-week intervals for continuous harvest), onion sets for scallions or mature storage onions, a few tomato plants (one early variety, one slicing, one cherry), cucumbers, zucchini or summer squash, peas (snow peas for stir-fry, snap peas for snacking), and bush or pole beans. Add herbs in one corner and a few flowers to brighten things up.

If you have limited space, grow crops with high yields per square foot, such as root vegetables; use trellises to grow vertical vining plants; or try compact varieties. Grow transplants of crops you want early, and seed some directly in the garden as well to extend the harvest. When a spring crop like radishes or early peas finishes, clear the space and plant a summer heat-lover like okra or eggplant in the same spot.

For the health benefits of homegrown produce, see Get Healthy and Save Money by Food Gardening. For more on timing multiple sowings, see Guide to Succession Planting. To learn how rotating crops prevents disease and pest buildup, see Crop Rotation. If your site has heavy clay or poor drainage, consider No-Dig Gardening. And for premium variety lists and growing tips specific to tomatoes, peppers, and eggplant, see Top Tomatoes, Peppers, and Eggplants.

The first season of vegetable gardening often teaches as much through mistakes as successes. Plant what intrigues you, tend it with attention, harvest when ripe, and let the garden teach you. Every season you'll refine your layout, choose better varieties, and refine your timing. That's the joy of gardening: there's always another season to experiment.