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Jul 8, 2019 6:20 PM CST
Thread OP
Southern Indiana (Zone 6a)
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I know it obviously can't outside, but what are the chances of success if I dig it up and bring it inside? It's performed so well here, and is just a stunning plant. This is the first time I've grown caladium, and I am beyond happy with this plant. Definitely one of my favorites. How likely would its survival be in a south facing window for the winter? Is there a way I can get it to go dormant during the winter? Thanks!
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Maybe we should get a second opinion...
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Jul 8, 2019 7:04 PM CST
Name: Gina
Florida (Zone 9a)
Tropical plant collector 40 years
Aroids Region: Florida Greenhouse Tropicals
I think you should dig it. Here in Florida, the bulbs can stay in the ground, but, instead of increasing yearly like most aroids would, the caladiums actually decrease by about half. We have to replant every season. I got tired of replanting so I never buy them anymore
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Jul 8, 2019 7:38 PM CST
Name: Sally
central Maryland (Zone 7b)
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Very pretty. I guess you should feed it well and get maximum growth. But stop feeding late in summer. I have kept them over winter as bulbs but they did dwindle each time. Probably just brought the pots to a dry place and let them get dry.
Plant it and they will come.
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Jul 9, 2019 5:40 AM CST
Name: Gina
Florida (Zone 9a)
Tropical plant collector 40 years
Aroids Region: Florida Greenhouse Tropicals
Does anyone know why they dwindle? Off the top of the head? I could never figure it out
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Jul 9, 2019 9:00 AM CST
Georgia (Zone 8a)
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If you don't know the answer, I'm not sure who does. *Blush*
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Jul 9, 2019 11:15 AM CST
Name: Will Creed
NYC
Prof. plant consultant & educator
I have been told that Caladium bulbs need just a bit of water during the winter dormancy if the bulbs start to shrivel just a bit. Perhaps that keeps them from shrinking.
Will Creed
Horticultural Help, NYC
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Jul 9, 2019 12:43 PM CST
Name: Gina
Florida (Zone 9a)
Tropical plant collector 40 years
Aroids Region: Florida Greenhouse Tropicals
Silly Hamwild LOL. I would think that as an aroid, they would multiply. But they do the reverse. The ones in the ground get rain in winter, we don't have dry winters anymore. But every one replants every year. I think Caladium are one of the plants that the University of Florida develops new varieties of every year. They do Poinsettia and oh what is that other one??? The one everyone grows for the foliage? Hafta look it up now can't believe I can't think of the name....But they have big greenhouse sales of their new cultivars every year up on campus
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Jul 9, 2019 12:46 PM CST
Name: Gina
Florida (Zone 9a)
Tropical plant collector 40 years
Aroids Region: Florida Greenhouse Tropicals
Coleus. How did I forget that?
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Jul 9, 2019 1:00 PM CST
Name: tarev
San Joaquin County, CA (Zone 9b)
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The problem here in the temperate region is the cold temperature. Caladiums are quite sensitive to cold.
In my homeland they are grown in a moist media, and you can even find them in swampy areas or wetlands. But temperature is sustained, we only go low down to 70F and daytime temps is extremely humid hot which this plant enjoys a lot.

Sometimes just got to respect the dormancy of the plant over here when winter comes around so they can grow better the following season.
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Jul 9, 2019 5:18 PM CST
Thread OP
Southern Indiana (Zone 6a)
I'll quit while I'm ahead...
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Thanks for all the replies! At what time should I did it up, and should I wait for the leaves to die back and just take the bulb, or should I dig the entire plant up while it is still leafed out, and treat it as a house plant? If I can get it to go dormant, it's probably safer because winter here is like pure cloud coverage all the time.
Maybe we should get a second opinion...
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Nov 22, 2024 8:31 AM CST

All my caladium bulbs survive the winter. In 9A. Bigger and better every year they are gorgeous
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Nov 23, 2024 6:33 PM CST
Name: Tiffany purpleinopp
Opp, AL @--`--,----- (Zone 8b)
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Hi & welcome, Peaches! Wish I could say the same. So close, but yet so far.
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Dec 4, 2024 10:41 AM CST
JC NJ/So FL (Zone 7b)
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My corms do get bigger but quite slow. I keep some of the pots outside while it is very warm with nights at 74F, days 85F. And bring them in while it is still about 65-ish at night. I read long time ago that they will only grow when soil temps are above 65F. So naturally if they are in ground they might not survive even in central FL when exposed to damp/cool conditions.
But some very large varieties i keep strictly indoors with part sun from E/W. Still most of my varieties go dormant with less, weaker sun in the fall.
I overwinter them dry in pots (temps not lower then 65F).
But one that i kept in South FL indoors year round in steady 73-76F temps (Mrs Halderman) kept going for a record 15 months! It dried up a bit and dropped half the leaves by the end of summer, but then restarted again and kept going thru winter and all of spring. My guess it might be due to stronger light and humidity year round, but also due to the age of the corms: quite large and old. Mrs Halderman is an old large variety. But may be the fact that it got semi-dry rest for a few weeks helped too?
It is waking up right now indoors (after 6 month rest).
I had a C. Creamsicle that is also large and was in South FL too, but it totally went bust over winter, the corms dry-rotted in the pot: it was part time outside, so may be molds got in.
But i also sometimes get dry-rot overwinter in indoors pots, especially with smaller corms. Perhaps a fungicide drench would help at the end of season prior to drying them up.
So it is a hit and miss depending on variety/age/size, but the high temps and high light levels are the most important.
Last edited by skylark Dec 4, 2024 10:46 AM Icon for preview
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