Do you prefer dips or tets? Why if you do.

I love them both.

Not sure I have a preference regarding dips or tets, but the one attribute I'm looking for here in Florida is a high resistance to rust. If a cultivar isn't rust resistance, it simply will gradually peter out for me over a couple of years, no matter how robust the plant was at the beginning. My two "stars" in my Florida garden are Licorice Twist and Siloam Double Classic, which now that I look them up are both diploids. Both re-bloom, and rarely get a spot of rust, and both have increased to such large clumps I'm going to have to divide them soon. Some others that were rated with moderate rust resistance haven't stood up too well. Destined to See and Leabee Orange Crush both are suffering from decline due to rust this year. I completely lost my plant of Savannah Banana Split, before it even bloomed.

I also plant daylilies in my daughter's garden in Utah, and have all re-bloomers there for her, because she wants as much bloom for the space allowed as she can get. They are so busy with two pre-schoolers and both parents working that easy care plants that bloom often are the high value in their garden. I take some plants that are rust-prone to Utah with me when I go in the spring, because the dry air there really shuts down the rust problem pretty well. Canadian Border Patrol has done wonderfully in her garden, and it is a tet. The other big success there is Pandora's Box, a diploid. I have to find the list of starts I got from Susan to figure out the others I've planted in her garden. I wasn't there to see them bloom this year as I visited in May and again in August (just in time to do the deadheading), but I did get to see some of her iris)

with Mary. It's about the plant, not the ploidy.

dyzzypyxxy,
Do you treat your plants in anyway for rust? I have quite a bit of rust in the garden at the moment, but no plants look so bad that I feel I might lose them. I did buy some Bayer 3 in 1 Insect,Disease and Mite treatment today and hope to start using that once the predicted rain has passed. It is supposed to also treat for leaf miner, and that is something that has been progressing more each year in my garden.
I like both Dips and Tets, but I have about four times as many Tets as Dips. No matter what they are, I prefer nice green foliage with stout scapes and large blooms. Now I am pursuing mostly plants with bud counts of at least 20 and branch counts of at least 5, and trying to slowly add to my Sculpted Relief registered plants and plants to cross with them. That is the main reason for the over balance in Tets to Dips.

I've been using a biologic fungicide called Actinovate lately. It does seem to help with the daylily rust, but doesn't eliminate it. Also it's vairly pricey so I use most of it on my orchid collection to protect against Phytopthora black spot disease, and the remainder gets to the plumeria, figs and daylilies so maybe they could use a better, more consistent dose.

Will keep trying with it next year if any of my rust-prone daylilies make it through the winter. We shall see.

Paul I am on the Mary's bandwagon
Rust is not a problem here unless I get a plant from the warmer states that have it. That is the main reason that I am going with fall shipment henceforth from rust prone areas. I don't have the time to treat and spray.

Good question, Paul. I've not given it much thought before because I like so many and they are both dips and tets. I did find the link below that points out a few characteristics about tets that may cause some folks to lean toward liking them better.
https://cottageinthemeadow.pla...

I do think that the scapes on the tets are sturdier (in general). More like cornstalks in some cases If they hold up the blooms, I don't care if it is a tet or dip.

Here is a link to a thread on this site with more viewpoints:
The thread "Diploid or Tetraploid?" in Daylilies forum

We have 2 hybridizers in our family. I only have and work with diploids and my son Ashton mainly works with tets. We have 1200 registered daylily cultivars and 5000 seedlings. I say to each, choose what you like.

We both agree here that diploids are easy for hybridizing in our southwest location. The only other local hybridizer (other than small back yard gardener) has tetraploids only and uses controlled conditions for hybridizing. We do everything outdoors in normal conditions. Our friend hybridizers use shade houses, a shaded patio and an air conditioned room to set seeds on tetraploids. The diploids set seeds best after the weather has warmed up.

Also, I have found many rust resistant and rust free diploids but few tets. (a few spider and uf dormant tets have pretty good resistance). We have been introduced to rust from plants purchased in spring from the south. It does not overwinter here. The last time we had rust, I noticed our main bed with registered daylilies, almost all the tets were infested with rust. Several diploids which are mainly small and miniatures, had foliage growing into the rusty tets but not a spot of rust on them. I have several rust resistant and rust free diploids from two exposures of rust in the past several years.

dyzzypyxxy said:Not sure I have a preference regarding dips or tets, but the one attribute I'm looking for here in Florida is a high resistance to rust. If a cultivar isn't rust resistance, it simply will gradually peter out for me over a couple of years, no matter how robust the plant was at the beginning. My two "stars" in my Florida garden are Licorice Twist and Siloam Double Classic, which now that I look them up are both diploids. Both re-bloom, and rarely get a spot of rust, and both have increased to such large clumps I'm going to have to divide them soon. Some others that were rated with moderate rust resistance haven't stood up too well. Destined to See and Leabee Orange Crush both are suffering from decline due to rust this year. I completely lost my plant of Savannah Banana Split, before it even bloomed.

I also plant daylilies in my daughter's garden in Utah, and have all re-bloomers there for her, because she wants as much bloom for the space allowed as she can get. They are so busy with two pre-schoolers and both parents working that easy care plants that bloom often are the high value in their garden. I take some plants that are rust-prone to Utah with me when I go in the spring, because the dry air there really shuts down the rust problem pretty well. Canadian Border Patrol has done wonderfully in her garden, and it is a tet. The other big success there is Pandora's Box, a diploid. I have to find the list of starts I got from Susan to figure out the others I've planted in her garden. I wasn't there to see them bloom this year as I visited in May and again in August (just in time to do the deadheading), but I did get to see some of her iris)

I appreciate the tip about Licorice Twist. I am testing over 40 different varieties now that are supposed to have high resistance. I am thinking about doing a FB forum called "Daylilies - Rust resistant, evergreens". Where people list daylilies they find to be resistant and a source.

You should see Brian Reeder's blog about his work on hybridizing for rust resistance.

I like dips in May and early June, and again in late August to frost. I like Tets late June to Mid August.

I like dips for season extenders... the ones that bloom really early or really late, or bloom early and then rebloom late in the summer. And I like Tets for the head-turners in the middle, although there are some real lookers in the Dip world, too.