Carnivorous Plants forum→Venus Flytrap Watering Questions

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Name: TK
Ontario, Canada (Zone 6b)
Cactus and Succulents Sempervivums Bromeliad Tropicals Aroids Hibiscus
Sedums Container Gardener
Image
Macrocentra
May 23, 2020 7:39 PM CST
I picked up two little VFTs today. I tried to keep them several years ago but never had luck with them. While at the nursery, a staff member brought out a new tray full of them, so I took a look. They were the healthiest VFTs I've personally ever seen for sale. I'm also hoping given they were just brought out, they hopefully haven't been constantly poked at.
Here they are:
Thumb of 2020-05-24/Macrocentra/0ab759

I've found a lot of contradictory information regarding watering for these guys. My plan was to use rainwater to water them. Looking for some clarification on the following:

1. Is a humidity tray recommended? Or should they be standing in some water at all times? Neither? The bowl they are currently sitting in was intended for either purpose if needed.

2. If they shouldn't be standing in water, should I water from the top or bottom?

Thank you! Smiling
Name: Kevin Langley
London UK
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AmberLeaf
Jun 26, 2020 6:13 AM CST
From my experience from Venus fly traps is they like poor soil with no to hardly any nutrition in the soil, they get there feed from insects instead of the soil and don't like to much water, there are some youtube videos on how to keep Venus fly trap plants alive and happy.

As for the cactus I don't know much about them but I'd start with looking at what environments they grow in out in the wild then try to match it with the right soil and light etc.
Name: Tommy
Hudson Valley of N.Y.
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tommyr
Jul 9, 2020 8:20 AM CST
Stand them in a tray of water. An inch or so deep. Do not let them dry out. During dormancy the soil should remain moist only, not soggy or the roots will rot. Humidity is not an issue with them. Grow outdoors under full all day direct Sun. Acclimate them slow to it. They are not houseplants.
Name: TK
Ontario, Canada (Zone 6b)
Cactus and Succulents Sempervivums Bromeliad Tropicals Aroids Hibiscus
Sedums Container Gardener
Image
Macrocentra
Jul 11, 2020 4:47 PM CST
Perfect, that's what I've been doing so far, and it seems to be keeping them happy. Only had a couple traps die off, but new ones quickly appeared to replace them.
I've been keeping distilled (and rainwater when I have it) in that bowl for them so they stay wet.

They've caught a couple snacks as well, all of which were successfully digested.
When I was first adjusting them outside, a trap got a little cooked. It's deformed but still alive. The rest of the traps on that plant seem just fine though.
[Last edited by Macrocentra - Jul 11, 2020 4:48 PM (+)]
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Name: Tommy
Hudson Valley of N.Y.
Image
tommyr
Sep 24, 2020 7:42 AM CST
Macrocentra said:I picked up two little VFTs today. I tried to keep them several years ago but never had luck with them. While at the nursery, a staff member brought out a new tray full of them, so I took a look. They were the healthiest VFTs I've personally ever seen for sale. I'm also hoping given they were just brought out, they hopefully haven't been constantly poked at.
Here they are:
Thumb of 2020-05-24/Macrocentra/0ab759

I've found a lot of contradictory information regarding watering for these guys. My plan was to use rainwater to water them. Looking for some clarification on the following:

1. Is a humidity tray recommended? Or should they be standing in some water at all times? Neither? The bowl they are currently sitting in was intended for either purpose if needed.

2. If they shouldn't be standing in water, should I water from the top or bottom?

Thank you! Smiling


Use Water with distilled water, rainwater or reverse osmosis water only. NO tap water (unless the TDS is below 50ppm) or other bottled waters. Keep only moist during winter dormancy. Here is my care sheet on flytraps:

How to care for Venus Flytraps By T. Randall

Flytraps are not houseplants. They are perennials and have special needs that must be met or they will weaken and eventually die if grown indoors. Forget terrariums. 99% of the time when someone is having a problem with their flytrap on the forums they are growing it indoors. There are a few people who say they can be grown indoors under bright enough lights and regular feedings. Feel free to try it. Good luck. See this document: https://www.flytrapcare.com/ph...

Grow them in FULL ALL DAY SUN OUTDOORS. This means at least 6 hours or more a day. The more the better. If your plant is new acclimate it slowly to full all day Sunlight OUTDOORS. Look up (Google) "Hardening off". Sit it in a shallow tray of rain water, distilled water or reverse osmosis water ONLY during the growing season. NO TAP WATER unless the TDS reading is below 50ppm. TDS meters are cheap and can be found on Amazon or eBay.

In the fall when night time temperatures approach freezing they going into their dormancy period. THEY MUST have 3-4 months of winter dormancy. Drain off excess water from their pots and place somewhere where the temps. can be maintained between 35F and 45F for the next 3-4 months. 3 months minimum. Keep them moist only, not waterlogged. Keep them from freezing solid. They can take a brief freeze but not repeated freeze/thaws.

For VFTs, what I do is I drain off excess water from the pots, hit them with a sulfur based fungicide and place in zip lock bags and pop them in the fridge for 3 - 3 1/2 months. I occasionally check them (once a month) for fungus and hit with the fungicide if needed. Late winter around February 1st I take them out hit them with SULFUR based fungicide again and place in a south and west window and some under florescent and white 'daylight' LED lights until night time temps. regularly stay above freezing then slowly acclimate them to full outdoor Sun. I've been using this method for going on 12 years with no losses.

These plants multiply and will fill their pot in a year or 2. Repot in a 50/50 mix of peat moss and perlite. This is the standard CP mix. DO NOT USE MIRACLE GROW products for them. They contain fertilizers and will kill the plants! The plant gets it's fertilizer from insects. There is no need to feed them.

100% sphagnum is also fine to use as soil, some people prefer it. I prefer peat/perlite as it's easier to remove during re-potting. It basically just falls off the roots. With LFSM you have to untangle it from the roots and risking damaging them.

In spring they will send up a tall flower stalk. Healthy plants can be allowed to flower if you want seeds. Seeds will be shiny black and tear shaped when ready to harvest. If your plant is sickly looking or you don't want seeds cut the stalk as soon as you notice it starting to grow in early spring.

Seeds do not come true to their parent. Example: If the seeds are from DCXL they will not produce DCXL plants.

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