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May 25, 2020 12:39 PM CST
Thread OP
Name: Gina
Florida (Zone 9a)
Tropical plant collector 40 years
Aroids Region: Florida Greenhouse Tropicals
Some folks have been experimenting with air layering on Monsteras and large growing philodendrons. I decided to give it a go on one of my Monstera deliciosa 'small forms' before I try it on any of my variegated Monsteras.
All you do is this:
take some plant tags and a sharp knife
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Make a wound in the stem between 2 nodes
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Place the plant tags into the wounds so they cannot close
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Then you wait. New shoots should sprout out above the cuts
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Avatar for racheljean10
Jun 20, 2020 7:57 PM CST

Any progress updates on these? Interested in seeing how it's going!
Jun 21, 2020 5:01 AM CST
Thread OP
Name: Gina
Florida (Zone 9a)
Tropical plant collector 40 years
Aroids Region: Florida Greenhouse Tropicals
no action yet
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Avatar for Sebastian126
Jun 5, 2023 7:26 AM CST
Hi! I came across this thread and was curious if this method works?
Jun 5, 2023 8:06 AM CST
Thread OP
Name: Gina
Florida (Zone 9a)
Tropical plant collector 40 years
Aroids Region: Florida Greenhouse Tropicals
It has for other people. It didn't for me personally
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Jun 5, 2023 10:37 AM CST
Name: Al F.
5b-6a mid-MI
Knowledge counters trepidation.
Japanese Maples Deer Tropicals Seed Starter Overwinters Tender Plants Indoors Region: Michigan
Houseplants Foliage Fan Dog Lover Container Gardener Birds Wild Plant Hunter
Air layers are meant to force adventitious roots to grow so the part of the plant above the new roots can be separated from the mother plant, not to force shoots to grow. If one wants shoots to grow cut a notch in the vine/stem immediately above a node.

The growth regulator, auxin, is synthesized primarily in the apex (tip) of stems and branches. Two of its main functions are to suppress lateral breaks (side branching along the stem or branch) and to promote root formation or root branching. Auxin's flow in the plant is 'polar' meaning it only flows downward toward the roots. To force a branch to grow where we want it, stopping the flow of auxin is instrumental because it allows the 'dormant' buds at the node BELOW the notch to be activated. If we are truly air layering and trying to produce roots below a node, the notch needs to be below the node. It's purpose is to stop the downward flow of auxin and photosynthate (the plant's true food) so they accumulate in the tissues above the notch, which stimulates root formation. Air layers typically require the wound site to be surrounded by a grow medium to support root growth.

The trees below are hackberry and there is an air layer established on one of the trees. It is filled with gritty mix and gets watered regularly along with the trees in the tub.
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Here, the air layer has been separated after 3 months and is growing on it's new root system.
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There are several ways of preparing air layers for rooting. Cutting flaps in the periderm (skin or bark) or making a ring cut around the stem are the most common. Tourniquets are commonly used as well.
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This Japanese maple was layered off of it's old root system via the tourniquet method. The roots you see are the new roots, the old root system has been sawed off. You can still see the tourniquet wire attached below the new roots.
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* Employ your time in improving yourself by other men's writings, so that you shall gain easily what others have labored hard for. ~ Socrates
* Change might not always bring growth, but there is no growth without change.
* Mother Nature always sides with the hidden flaw.
Last edited by tapla Jun 7, 2023 3:48 AM Icon for preview
Avatar for Mrs_Hottentot
Aug 30, 2023 12:10 AM CST

Foliage Fan Tropicals Cactus and Succulents Growing under artificial light Houseplants
I have to try that too !
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