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Avatar for PlantingOaks
Jun 10, 2020 5:47 PM CST
Thread OP
central ohio (Zone 5b)
Early this spring, I transplanted a roughly 6' koto no ito to what I thought was going to be a better spot. Unfortunately, now that days are summer-sized, it gets way more sun that it seemed like it did during the winter. It moves to shade around 2pm, which is apparently not soon enough for the tree, which is starting to look rather crispy.

I have another, shadier, place to put it, but I don't think I should transplant again until fall, right?

So now I'm trying to think of ways to shade it temporarily...rebar pounded into the ground with pvc pipe slipped over and shade cloth in between? One of those flag/banner things you see advertisements on?

Any suggestions?I think it needs to be 8-10 ft tall or so to provide enough shade.

(and right in my front yard too! D'Oh! Good thing I live out in the country isn't it? Hilarious! )
Jun 11, 2020 12:12 PM CST
Name: Daisy I
Reno, Nv (Zone 6b)
Not all who wander are lost
Garden Sages Plant Identifier
Shade after 2 pm should be perfect. Check to make sure its getting enough water.
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and proclaiming...."WOW What a Ride!!" -Mark Frost

President: Orchid Society of Northern Nevada
Jun 11, 2020 3:02 PM CST
Name: Lee-Roy
Bilzen, Belgium (Zone 8a)
Region: Belgium Composter Region: Europe Ferns Hostas Irises
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Japanese maples get planted in full sun all the time. Isn't it more a combination of summer sun AND wind exposure? In any case the remedy is to reposition it indeed and this is done during the dormant season.
Avatar for PlantingOaks
Jun 11, 2020 4:50 PM CST
Thread OP
central ohio (Zone 5b)
I thought morning sun and afternoon shade would be good too, but apparently the tree disagrees. Koto no Ito is a very thin-leaved linearilobum type, so I believe it is less sun-tolerant than many varieties.

I am pretty sure it is a sun issue, as the leaves are developing orange and red tones, particularly the top ones exposed to more sun. This wasn't something the tree did before once it was past the new-growth stage. Additionally, (and the cause for concern - I don't really mind orange tones Big Grin ) the strongest colored leaves are turning crispy and brown in a way that to me looks like sunburn.

I don't see any wilting, which is what I would expect if it was not taking up enough water, right?

Here is a terrible image:

Thumb of 2020-06-11/PlantingOaks/5e6807

(note the curled up leaves in the bottom right - those are some of the ones with actual damage)
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