Houseplants forum→schefflera getting brown patches on leaves within 24 hours

Views: 2712, Replies: 11 » Jump to the end

Masoud
Jun 13, 2020 2:08 PM CST
hello,i have recently purchased a schefflera the plant is doin alright,at least 10 12 new growth on the plant, suddenly after i watered it last day the plant developed these brown patches on 4 5 leaves ,ive checked the soil with my finger to be sure that the top layer is dry before i water it
is it overwatering?



Thumb of 2020-06-14/Masoud/1ce0b9



Thumb of 2020-06-14/Masoud/5efd62



Thumb of 2020-06-14/Masoud/01424a

[Last edited by Masoud - Jun 14, 2020 2:29 AM (+)]
Give a thumbs up | Quote | Post #2272937 (1)

Masoud
Jun 14, 2020 2:30 AM CST
anyone?
Name: Will Creed
NYC
Prof. plant consultant & educator
Image
WillC
Jun 14, 2020 10:21 AM CST
Please post a photo that shows the entire plant and its pot.
Will Creed
Horticultural Help, NYC
www.HorticulturalHelp.com
Contact me directly at [email protected]
I now have a book available on indoor plant care

Masoud
Jun 14, 2020 3:43 PM CST
here you are,btw this is not the place that plant is all the time i just separated it from other plants in case of any disease,for now i just removed the affected leaves and sprayed a bit fungicide (Mancozeb)

Thumb of 2020-06-14/Masoud/6523e4


Thumb of 2020-06-14/Masoud/76478f


Thumb of 2020-06-14/Masoud/13f803


Thumb of 2020-06-14/Masoud/19fb33

[Last edited by Masoud - Jun 14, 2020 3:46 PM (+)]
Give a thumbs up | Quote | Post #2273988 (4)
Name: Lin Vosbury
Sebastian, Florida (Zone 10a)

Region: United States of America Deer Region: Florida Charter ATP Member Million Pollinator Garden Challenge I was one of the first 300 contributors to the plant database!
Garden Procrastinator Birds Butterflies Bee Lover Hummingbirder Container Gardener
Image
plantladylin
Jun 14, 2020 3:53 PM CST
Hi Masoud, Welcome!

I'm not sure what might have caused the spots on the leaves of your Umbrella Tree (Schefflera arboricola 'Variegata') but the soil appears quite dry, which makes me wonder if perhaps that could be an issue?
~ I'm an old gal who still loves playing in the dirt!
~ Playing in the dirt is my therapy ... and I'm in therapy a lot!



Masoud
Jun 14, 2020 4:03 PM CST
sorry for the picture quality had to use camera flash because lights were off,here is a picture with lights on,its not dry i watered it 2 days ago

Thumb of 2020-06-14/Masoud/d474bf

Name: Abby B.
Michigan (Zone 5b)
Image
Abby_B
Jun 14, 2020 4:34 PM CST
Hello-

I had a similar situation to yours... found similar brown spots on a few of the top leaves Of my schefflera soon after watering. It's in a 10" pot and I had been watering it when the soil surface was dry about 1/2 to 1 inch down. The soil also surface also appears lighter In color. The only time I watered it just a bit sooner when it was not quite as dry was when the brown spots appeared. From that I concluded it was probably just watered too soon.

Masoud
Jun 14, 2020 4:41 PM CST
Abby_B said:Hello-

I had a similar situation to yours... found similar brown spots on a few of the top leaves Of my schefflera soon after watering. It's in a 10" pot and I had been watering it when the soil surface was dry about 1/2 to 1 inch down. The soil also surface also appears lighter In color. The only time I watered it just a bit sooner when it was not quite as dry was when the brown spots appeared. From that I concluded it was probably just watered too soon.


yes! it is exactly what happened with mine too,also the brown spots are only in the top leaves,hope thats the case then,thank you

Name: Will Creed
NYC
Prof. plant consultant & educator
Image
WillC
Jun 15, 2020 8:40 AM CST
How long ago did you repot it? How much of the original soil did you remove? Does the new pot have a drain hole? Did you put "drainage material" in the bottom of the pot?

How deep into the soil do you let it get dry? About how often does that happen?

How far is it from the nearest window?
Will Creed
Horticultural Help, NYC
www.HorticulturalHelp.com
Contact me directly at [email protected]
I now have a book available on indoor plant care

Masoud
Jul 9, 2020 3:56 AM CST
WillC said:How long ago did you repot it? How much of the original soil did you remove? Does the new pot have a drain hole? Did you put "drainage material" in the bottom of the pot?

How deep into the soil do you let it get dry? About how often does that happen?

How far is it from the nearest window?

hey,sorry i forgot to check the post for any further answers,seems like the problem was the plastic pot,it was keeping too much moisture,i removed the plant from its pot cleaned the roots and planted it again in a clay pot this time i also mixed its soil with some cacti soil to help the drainage,so far the brown patches stopped and it is growing again
Name: Al
5b-6a MI
Image
tapla
Jul 9, 2020 8:16 PM CST
This plant does not like wet feet, loves highly aerated, fast-draining soils kept on the dry side. Using a "tell" to "tell" you when it's time to water is far better than a finger telling you the top of the soil is dry. It's the moisture content of soil in the lower reaches of the pot that's important. The brown spots are a physiological disorder called Oedema/edema. Something I wrote about it and something about using a 'tell':

Oedema
Oedema is a physiological disorder that can affect all plants. It occurs when the plant takes up more water than it can rid itself of via the process of transpiration. The word itself means 'swelling', which is usually the first symptom, and comes in the form of pale blisters or water-filled bumps on foliage. Under a variety of circumstances/cultural conditions, a plant's internal water pressure (turgidity) can become so high that some leaf cells rupture and leak their contents into inter-cellular spaces in leaf tissue, creating wet or weepy areas. Symptoms vary by plant, but as the malady progresses, areas of the leaf turn yellow, brown, brown with reddish overtones or even black, with older damage appearing as corky/ scaly/ ridged patches, or wart/gall-like bumpy growth. Symptoms are seen more frequently in plants that are fleshy, are usually more pronounced on the underside of leaves, and older/lower leaves are more likely to be affected than younger/upper leaves.
Oedema is most common in houseplants during the winter/early spring months, is driven primarily by excessive water retention in the soil, and can be intensified via several additional cultural influences. Cool temperatures, high humidity levels, low light conditions, or partial defoliation can individually or collectively act to intensify the problem, as can anything else that slows transpiration. Nutritional deficiencies of Ca and Mg are also known contributors to the malady.
Some things that can help you prevent oedema:
* Increase light levels and temperature
* Monitor water needs carefully – avoid over-watering. I'd heartily recommend a soil with drainage so sharp (fast) that when you to water to beyond the saturation point you needn't worry about prolonged periods of soil saturation wrecking root health/function. Your soil choice should be a key that unlocks the solutions to many potential problems.
* Avoid misting or getting water on foliage. It slows transpiration and increases turgidity.
* Water as soon as you get up in the AM. When stomata close in preparation for the dark cycle, turgidity builds. If you water early in the day, it gives the plant an opportunity to remove (for its own needs) some of the excess water in the soil.
* Put a fan in the room or otherwise increase air flow/circulation. Avoid over-crowding your plants.

Using a 'tell'
Over-watering saps vitality and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it, they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see that terrestrial plants need plenty of air (oxygen) in the soil to drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and not enough air to support the kind of root health most growers would like to see; and, a healthy root system is a prerequisite to a healthy plant.
Watering in small sips leads to avoid over-watering leads to a residual build-up of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil from tapwater and fertilizer solutions, which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma. It creates another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very important factor.
In many cases, we can judge whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water.
Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'.
One of the most reliable methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell'. You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of about 5/16" (75-85mm) would work better. They usually come 48" (120cm) long and can usually be cut in half and serve as a pair. Sharpen all 4 ends in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell comes out dry or nearly so. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue.
Al

Masoud
Jul 10, 2020 3:51 AM CST
tapla said:This plant does not like wet feet, loves highly aerated, fast-draining soils kept on the dry side. Using a "tell" to "tell" you when it's time to water is far better than a finger telling you the top of the soil is dry. It's the moisture content of soil in the lower reaches of the pot that's important. The brown spots are a physiological disorder called Oedema/edema. Something I wrote about it and something about using a 'tell':

Oedema
Oedema is a physiological disorder that can affect all plants. It occurs when the plant takes up more water than it can rid itself of via the process of transpiration. The word itself means 'swelling', which is usually the first symptom, and comes in the form of pale blisters or water-filled bumps on foliage. Under a variety of circumstances/cultural conditions, a plant's internal water pressure (turgidity) can become so high that some leaf cells rupture and leak their contents into inter-cellular spaces in leaf tissue, creating wet or weepy areas. Symptoms vary by plant, but as the malady progresses, areas of the leaf turn yellow, brown, brown with reddish overtones or even black, with older damage appearing as corky/ scaly/ ridged patches, or wart/gall-like bumpy growth. Symptoms are seen more frequently in plants that are fleshy, are usually more pronounced on the underside of leaves, and older/lower leaves are more likely to be affected than younger/upper leaves.
Oedema is most common in houseplants during the winter/early spring months, is driven primarily by excessive water retention in the soil, and can be intensified via several additional cultural influences. Cool temperatures, high humidity levels, low light conditions, or partial defoliation can individually or collectively act to intensify the problem, as can anything else that slows transpiration. Nutritional deficiencies of Ca and Mg are also known contributors to the malady.
Some things that can help you prevent oedema:
* Increase light levels and temperature
* Monitor water needs carefully – avoid over-watering. I'd heartily recommend a soil with drainage so sharp (fast) that when you to water to beyond the saturation point you needn't worry about prolonged periods of soil saturation wrecking root health/function. Your soil choice should be a key that unlocks the solutions to many potential problems.
* Avoid misting or getting water on foliage. It slows transpiration and increases turgidity.
* Water as soon as you get up in the AM. When stomata close in preparation for the dark cycle, turgidity builds. If you water early in the day, it gives the plant an opportunity to remove (for its own needs) some of the excess water in the soil.
* Put a fan in the room or otherwise increase air flow/circulation. Avoid over-crowding your plants.

Using a 'tell'
Over-watering saps vitality and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it, they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see that terrestrial plants need plenty of air (oxygen) in the soil to drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and not enough air to support the kind of root health most growers would like to see; and, a healthy root system is a prerequisite to a healthy plant.
Watering in small sips leads to avoid over-watering leads to a residual build-up of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil from tapwater and fertilizer solutions, which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma. It creates another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very important factor.
In many cases, we can judge whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water.
Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'.
One of the most reliable methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell'. You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of about 5/16" (75-85mm) would work better. They usually come 48" (120cm) long and can usually be cut in half and serve as a pair. Sharpen all 4 ends in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell comes out dry or nearly so. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue.
Al


yeah thanks,i noticed that, didint know the exact name but managed to save the plant,so far the best thing i learned from this is to use clay pots for bigger plants cause plastic pots usually keep too much moisture in the lower reaches,also gonna try to use this tell to tell way
[Last edited by Masoud - Jul 10, 2020 3:53 AM (+)]
Give a thumbs up | Quote | Post #2299517 (12)

« Garden.org Homepage
« Back to the top
« Forums List
« Houseplants forum
Only the members of the Members group may reply to this thread.

Member Login:

[ Join now ]

Today's site banner is by arctangent and is called "Time for Bed"

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.