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Oct 4, 2021 11:59 AM CST
Thread OP
Central New Mexico Foothills
Hi folks - this is in a south facing window and it looks just a bit less green than before I moved it there. Does it look like it might be getting too much sun, or should I just leave it?
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Oct 4, 2021 12:10 PM CST
Name: Rose
Colorado Springs, CO (Zone 5b)
Butterflies Cactus and Succulents Cat Lover Photo Contest Winner 2021
A little reddish color in a plant that's getting a lot of sun, especially more than it may be used to, is totally normal and harmless. Your plant *does* look quite thirsty to me though, and increased sun = drying faster.
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Oct 4, 2021 12:21 PM CST
Name: Donald
Eastland county, Texas (Zone 8a)
Raises cows Enjoys or suffers hot summers Region: Texas Plant Identifier
Reddish color is often called a stress color, but it's not only the sun that can trigger those and some causes are totally natural and don't need correcting. I agree with Rose that from the photo it appears it would appreciate a good soaking. But if you have also recently upgraded it to a new container, wait a week or so before you give it that water.
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Oct 4, 2021 12:27 PM CST
Name: tarev
San Joaquin County, CA (Zone 9b)
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Not too bad looking, bit I do notice container is too big for the plant. Also media looks heavy and dense.

If this plant is mine, I would use not too big and not too deep container that has drain holes, mix in more pumice to the media to make it more porous and gritty. That way, I can still water it as needed during the hotter period when it is actively growing without worrying of compromising the roots.

It seems to be getting good light, but just too dried out. On its active growing period, it can drink up actively to make it a bit more plump.
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Oct 4, 2021 7:17 PM CST
Thread OP
Central New Mexico Foothills
Thanks everyone - very interesting, as I just watered last week, and in general have been having an issue with over-watering rather than under.

Also, I've been told to start substantially reducing watering this time of year, so my plan is to water again in about 2 weeks, then stop fully for the winter (monitoring plants along the way to be sure this is the idea, of course).

I should also note that this plant spent about 2 months in a pretty dark room when I had a guest who kept the window shades mostly closed, although it's been back in this window for about 2 months now.

Given all of this, does it make sense to give it more water now - just about a week after the last water, and this late in the year?

Thanks also for the tips on the planting as well - I do have some better soil now. Given that it's this late in the year, would it make sense to try and replant now, or wait until the Spring?
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Oct 4, 2021 8:40 PM CST
Name: tarev
San Joaquin County, CA (Zone 9b)
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I think the reason you seem to be overwatering is due to the big container. Big container = more media at the root zone to dry out properly.

You will be the one to assess your ongoing weather condition there. We all have varying microclimates, and growing plants indoors takes longer dry out time than outdoors. That is why my initial suggestion is reduce container size. If you want you can delay the media change in Spring.

Typically I also reduce watering frequency in Fall, but it all depends on what goes on here. Right now my area still hits mid
to high 90F range daytime high and relative humidity is at 15% to 30%, so it remains very dry. So I can still water at least once a week. It is more towards mid November that my intervals gets longer, then eventually once a month to no watering in winter.

Or it also depends how overnight temps cools down. If it easily hits 50F and below overnight, then I may start longer watering intervals sooner.

If you observe your area is still too hot, by all means, water your thirsty plant, just make sure excess water drains out. You can even run your ceiling fan briefly or open nearby windows, weather permitting, to help improve overall air circulation and dry out time for your plant.
Last edited by tarev Oct 5, 2021 12:45 PM Icon for preview
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Oct 4, 2021 8:57 PM CST
Thread OP
Central New Mexico Foothills
Thank you so much tarev - I really appreciate the reply. What's hard for me about seasonality is that the plants are indoors, so I'm not really sure how much the plants sense changing temps. I'm in New Mexico where we have consistent sunshine throughout the year, and even during shorter days the south-facing windows still get a lot of light, so I'm not really sure how to tell when the plants will sense "winter." Humidity, temp, etc. - all are pretty consistent throughout the year, though perhaps a bit cooler in the house in the winter, of course.

If you're thinking it's okay, I think I may go ahead and re-plant now. It's been a while since it's been repotted (2 years or so), and I think that may be the answer. None of my other plants seem to be thirsty, so pot/soil rather than watering schedule may be a good first step.
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Oct 4, 2021 10:27 PM CST
Name: Donald
Eastland county, Texas (Zone 8a)
Raises cows Enjoys or suffers hot summers Region: Texas Plant Identifier
@tccarnuel

"Given all of this, does it make sense to give it more water now - just about a week after the last water, and this late in the year?"

No. Hold off on watering it until you know the soil at the bottom of the pot is almost dry. Plants that are overwatered show the same symptoms as plants that are too dry for too long. The roots are affected in both cases and what you see on top of the soil is direct result of that.

Seasonal change does not only mean temperature. Even plants in the tropics have seasons due to wet and dry seasons. Plants sense the change in the length of days whether they are indoors or outside. Many plants simply need/require a rest period from active growth. I grow a rhizomatous plant native to southern Mexico and Central America which grows naturally in true tropical conditions. It goes entirely dormant during the winter season whether it's in a container or in its native habitat. The rhizomes can't take freezing temps. The containers just get packed in boxes and put away until late spring. Some here are well into dormancy now and some wait until much later, but nearly all are pretty much asleep for about half the year. They certainly aren't reacting to temperature change when growing in their native habitat.

Tarev's advice about a fast draining potting mix is good advice. Not sure I would do it now if the plant is under stress from too much water. It would likely just cause more stress. Let it dry for a while and figure out how you can assess the moisture content in the bottom of the container.
Donald
Last edited by needrain Oct 5, 2021 9:37 AM Icon for preview
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Oct 5, 2021 8:38 AM CST
Thread OP
Central New Mexico Foothills
Thanks needrain - I just used a moisture meter to measure the soil and it's bone dry (feels like it too). I'm guessing you'd suggest going ahead and giving it a water?

Given that it's dry and likely not under stress from too much water, would you suggest going ahead and repotting now?
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Oct 5, 2021 9:51 AM CST
Name: Donald
Eastland county, Texas (Zone 8a)
Raises cows Enjoys or suffers hot summers Region: Texas Plant Identifier
If the soil is really dry now, I'd probably repot it in a coarse potting mix now and let it sit a couple of days and then water. How large is the container? I can't tell from the photo. The plant is not centered in it. I use pots too large a lot (I use what I have on hand and available), but I'm not very generous with supplemental watering when it comes to a lot of plants. That probably is why it's generally successful since the containers don't sit around too wet very much. And drain holes in the container are a must. No way I'd ever manage one without that hole to drain out the excess water.

That's what I would do if it were mine based on my own habits. With the coming winter, once it got watered after initial repotting it would likely get very little water until next spring when things starting waking up. I do what I can to encourage dormancy during the winter months. I don't have a greenhouse or good placement for windows and too many plants, so if they can be coaxed into a long period of inactive growth during the winter months, an effort is made toward coaxing them to enter that phase. Others here might advise you against it. I'm guessing that in the foothills of New Mexico, you are going to have some cold winter weather at least occasionally. How you plan to treat the plant during the winter months depending on what it's winter environment will be would be a consideration on repotting now. I should have 6-10 weeks before we see the first frost here but that's never reliably predictable.
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Oct 5, 2021 10:45 AM CST
Thread OP
Central New Mexico Foothills
Needrain our air is also extremely dry here, so I do have some pots without drain holes, and honestly I tend to notice they dry out really quickly. When I noticed an issue with overwatering was during monsoon season here when the air was a LOT more humid than normal (cooler, but more humid). Even without drain holes, I tend to notice soil in these smaller pots dries out within a day or two. With the pots that DO have drain holes, I never notice excess water, which also gives me confidence that it's not as big of an issue.

I think I'll take everyone's advice here and repot. Other than just giving it more time, it seems to be the only really reasonable thing to do.

Yes, our winters do get cold here. We're at about 6,000 feet, so winter snow and wind is fairly common.
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Oct 5, 2021 12:57 PM CST
Name: tarev
San Joaquin County, CA (Zone 9b)
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I would really recommend you use containers with drain holes. Apart from excess water drainage, it also helps flush out excess salt accumulation in your media.
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Oct 5, 2021 10:35 PM CST
Thread OP
Central New Mexico Foothills
Thanks tarev - yeah, I'm mostly buying those now as opposed to the ones without, but am still using the ones I do have.

I replanted today - use a potting soil mixture that was a bit heavy on sand and perlite. Here's what the roots looked like - not sure if that yields any new insight...


Thumb of 2021-10-06/tccarnuel/df4e6a
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Oct 6, 2021 12:33 PM CST
Name: Donald
Eastland county, Texas (Zone 8a)
Raises cows Enjoys or suffers hot summers Region: Texas Plant Identifier
I think those roots look fine. They've been disturbed in the repotting process, so be sure to hold off on giving it water for the next few days.
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Oct 8, 2021 8:08 AM CST
Thread OP
Central New Mexico Foothills
needrain said:I think those roots look fine. They've been disturbed in the repotting process, so be sure to hold off on giving it water for the next few days.


Thank you - glad to hear. Haven't watered since repotting a few days ago. Plan on doing it this weekend.
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Oct 8, 2021 10:27 AM CST
Name: tarev
San Joaquin County, CA (Zone 9b)
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I agree with needrain. Roots looks good to me as well.

Just be patient. Smiling

Btw, are you always keeping this plant indoors? If so, just continue to position by your sunniest window, if south facing even better. Do quarter turns every few weeks as well to allow light on all sides of your plant.

Typically many succulents perk up again once Fall season is here after the ever harsh summer heat, provided it has been hardened to outside growing. In your case, if it is to be inside growing, then growth reaction is much slower. So hopefully in time after this repot your plant responds better. It may continue to go slow since light levels and intensities will soon be much shorter and weaker.

You are by now used to longer watering intervals. So after giving that plant a thorough watering, let it dry out.
Patience will be your friend. Good luck! As long as there is no soggy area anywhere all will be fine.
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Oct 10, 2021 11:16 AM CST
Thread OP
Central New Mexico Foothills
Thanks tarev - sounds like I'm on the right path. I really appreciate all your help!
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