Floyd Cove has posted their 2024 list
https://floydcovenursery.com/
The link to the PDF is on the home page.
The first 2 and a half pages are cultivars of very limited supply--like 4 or less, so it's one of those things where you have to act fast. I think it went up this morning or last night.

The rest of the listings are regular supply. They have a few listings of other hybridizers.

Have fun!! I sent them an email with my list this morning, and she got right back to me.
--Sharon

I placed my order earlier today. They had everything requested except for Red Lobster.

I wasn't planning on ordering any plants at all this year, but I caved and ordered seven. They had all of mine too.

Thank you for the PDF file you attached on the homepage. I think it will be very useful for me. By the way, there's a great online editor called PDF Guru http://pdfguru.com/ that allows you to annotate, split, and merge PDF files, helping to organize important information, which I really like. It's available on almost all platforms, so I believe it will be useful for many.

I mean... who cares...... Tropical DL's after all. Die off's when a sudden cold snap hits a bit north... when ya forgets to shut your greenhouse UP...

Excuse me, but I grow quite a few from Floyd Cove outside. Yes, sometimes they can be extra fussy, but it can be worth it for some of us. There are also people in Canada who grow Floyd Cove plants.

Deryll said: Excuse me, but I grow quite a few from Floyd Cove outside. Yes, sometimes they can be extra fussy, but it can be worth it for some of us. There are also people in Canada who grow Floyd Cove plants.

Ok... yet in green houses? And yes.. good consistent snow cover can prevent plant crown damage/kill off... especially w intelligent mulching (avoiding excess moisture)... to some of their plants.

Yet fact remains.. their a z9-10 tropical plant. Now.. I did bring in 2 of them this fall for a look at the converted RKF genetics. Time will tell if their worth the effort.

Reading the plant data 'Zone 4a -34.4 °C (-30 °F) to -31.7 °C (-25 °F)' attached to so many of them is so far fetched... not real world. I believe the new to buying daylily consumer should be aware of this. No issue from me how tender, fussy or who wants to grow that or why... just honestly about how each plant 'travels'.

Remember well a conversation w a z8 grower that experienced an early frost several yrs ago. That one event killed off almost the entire collect via FCove from that yr.

I was so happy to hear that Floyd Cove is still opened and have a new family to take over and keep the program going. I was really going to miss shopping all those beautiful flowers, and here in zone 8B they are some of my favorites.

I am in north central Ohio where we experience fluxuating temps through the winter, One day it is above freezing, and the next is only 15 degrees- with very little snow cover. I will admit that we had a very mild winter this past year, but I had quite a few Floyd Cove Plants planted in my garden, and several had been there at least three years. I will also keep some of the more expensive ones in my tiny greenhouse, at least until I get some pollen from them to use in crosses. I took out 1000 clumps this year, but in 30 years of growing daylilies, I have only lost two or three. Maybe it's me, maybe my soil, maybe I just get lucky, but I have bought plants from Carpenters in Texas, Trimmers, Lambertsons, Petits, Dan Hansen, Pete Harry, and Floyd Cove, all in Florida. I just don't think it is very nice to run people down broadly based on your thoughts about the matter.

I will concede that a good many of the southern plants perform poorly in the north, compared to the south, and the stats for bud counts and branching are totally off here, but a good many are quite hardy.... and I don't normally mulch anything. Perhaps some of it is largely due to the grower and what time of year they are planted. I really don't know! I only know that I have had good luck with mine.

Deryll, that's mostly been my experience too. I do mulch and I do a winter mulch of oak leaves over everything ( plenty of those here) which I hope helps them pull through. We really don't have consistent snow, lots of freeze/thaw but they do ok and have steadily put on fans since being planted three years ago.

Thank you Zoia.

Cold hardiness depends on many factors but I think that some of the most important are when the daylily is divided and replanted and the length of the growing season in the new location.

As one specific example I wanted to grow a specific cultivar hybridized in Florida. I purchased it and planted it early in the year. It did not survive its first winter. I did this several times, making the planting time earlier in the year. It did not survive its first winters. I tried one last time and purchased it again. This time I did not plant it outside. I planted it in a pot and grew it inside under lights for its first winter. I kept it outside during the normal growing season and brought it back inside each autumn. When it had increased well enough I tried a test. I had divided it and replanted fans in separate pots and grown them inside for several years. I kept growing some of the pots inside as back-ups. Some of the pots I sank into the daylily field in the spring and left them there over winter. This time some survived their first winter outside but not all of them. One of them has now survived several years outside, over winter, still in its pot buried in the soil up to its rim.
I think that the cultivar is cold hardy (to my winter conditions) but only when it has not been root disturbed, dug and divided recently. I think it needs more than one growing season to return to its normal cold hardiness after being disturbed. I suspect that is true for some daylilies hybridized in mild winter & long growing season locations.

However, the bottom line for cold hardiness and daylilies that are hybridized in mild winter locations with long growing seasons is that with each passing generation the daylilies will become better adapted to the environment in their location and less adapted to different environments in other locations. The hybridizer can affect this by taking some active measures but I do not expect that is typically done.

However, hybridizing daylilies in locations with shorter growing seasons and colder winter locations is also not going to avoid the problem of adaptation to local conditions. The daylilies hybridized in those locations will also become better adapted to their local conditions and less well adapted to conditions in other locations with passing generations unless the hybridizers take active measures to lessen that.

It is possible to counter adaptation to the local environment and produce plants that grow well in a wide range of environments but it is not easy and requires test gardens in each environment. I suspect that such plants would grow well in a range of environments but would not grow extremely well in any single environment. Munson and Moldovan took at least the initial steps in producing daylilies better adapted to both their environments after they saw how poorly their introductions were in the others growing conditions.

One year we were having an exceptionally mild late fall, and I ordered some plants from Dan Hansen in Florida in December. The day before they were to arrive, we had a nasty cold snap with three inches of snow. I covered the space where they were to be planted so that the ground was not frozen, and planted them in the ground when they came. I did put some leaves over them since they were fresh out of the box, but they did survive. In that order was Ice Cream Social, and I have now had it about six years with no problems at all. It continues to be one of my most used plants for hybridizing, as it imparts some amazing scapes in the seedlings, and huge flowers. The one issue I have with evergreen plants is that many of them don't increase much at all- but that is not with every one of them. I do know that Dan Hansen sends some of his plants to Curt Hanson here in Ohio to test for hardiness, and Jamie Gossard also brings some of his Kinnebrew Spacecoast plants to Ohio to test for hardiness. I have had Absolute Ripper from Dan for many years also, along with a few others, and they are planted out in the open field with no protection, and no fertilizer. That was my reasoning for not putting all southern growers on the no buy list. In all these years, there have plants that were extra fussy, but quite a few of them were actually from more northern growers. A couple from Elaine Seifert who lives exactly due west of me did not do well at all. All of the plants I am getting from Ron Reimer in Alabama are doing great. The ones I had gotten from Will Marchant have not done so well. They are hardy, yes, but weak. Since I only wanted them short term for pollen, I didn't mind so much, but the fact remains, that plants are ALL not lumped into one category. I was down to see Matt Meadows recently, and his plants are grown mostly in his greenhouse. He had planted some fully evergreen plants outside, and they were doing quite well- and in really crappy soil.

Deryll,
I think you missed typed Alabama, for Arkansas, https://www.signaturedaylilies...

Yes, isn't that funny? How certain hybridizers plants have a general tendency to not do well in your yard and others do great? I have to be careful here with Tim Bell, Fred Manning, Lee Pickles. Lots of their plants have died. Carol Emmerich plants tend to grow extremely slowly but survive. Plants hybridized around here ( Ellen Laprise, Darlyn Wilkinson, Doorakian ) tend to do pretty well, unsurprisingly. Curt Hanson, Char Rich and Jamie Gossard plants are the stars of my garden for hardiness and sturdy plant growth.

Sorry for the Alabama/ Arkansas mixup Larry. I was having "a senior moment". LOL.

I seem to buy from almost everyone sooner or later. I normally don't buy from Judy Davisson because she has used some of the same plants that I am using, and we have similar seedlings. A friend of mine is on her preferred customer list, so I can get pollen from her if I need it. Jamie is not far from here, so I go there to see him along with Matt Meadows. With the Spacecoast plants along with Jamie's releases, that covers a huge territory of both dips and tets, and then when you add Dianas doubles on top of that.... I can say that some of Jamie's plants are not very strong for me, especially the toothy stuff, but a few of his older plants are the backbone of my collection of seedlings because they are fully dormant here. When I cross those Florida plants to his dormants- WOW! It is hard to tell how many plants I have ordered from Floyd Cove these last ten years, and had gotten quite a few that Pat Stamile had released before Guy and Karen took over. The website says that these new people will be sending out a catalog soon, so I am curious to see what they will have. Ordering anything from them is iffy because I already have so many, but never say never if the prices are decent! At the moment, I am more interested in the dips from Ron Reimer in ARKANSAS. They are all doing extremely well here, and huge flowers too. I only had a couple flowers on his Chimera Delight this year, but I put that pollen on everything in hopes for a collection of broken pattern flowers. With Ron's age, I don't see him remaining in business forever, so I am not holding back when I see something I like. The main thing about daylilies is that people are getting older, and our selection isn't as big as it was a few years ago. There have been a large number of growers who have either died or retired just in the last few years. Here in Ohio, we have lost quite a few. Not only that, but those paper catalogs from Tim Bell and Floyd Cove are really nice during a long cold winter. Unlike the people in southern growing areas, I don't have to contend with rust or crown rot, so that helps too.

Oh, of course I should have added Judy Davisson to my stars list, her plants do amazingly here.

Just a reminder of the obvious: if one puts a newly acquired deep-south plant in a heated greenhouse or house to overwinter- or even covers with frost blankets-, the rust it may have will survive too (unless one performs heroic measures like stripping and cutting off all the green parts). Then, come spring, the rust spreads throughout the garden. All it takes is one fresh-ish rust spore from one pustule. That's the dilemma: one needs enough chill and dormancy to kill the rust but hopefully not the plant.

@Hembrain
This is only a partial solution. If the newly acquired southern-bred is received and planted outside in the early spring then it can grow under natural conditions until the autumn. It has a chance to show whether it is infected or not. Then a decision can be made in the autumn before severe weather occurs as to whether to overwinter it in a greenhouse or under lights indoors.

There is another possible strategy. This one needs a refrigerator that can be used to overwinter the new purchases. The new purchases would need to be left growing outside under natural conditions until at least one frost had occurred and preferably more than one frost. That is, the daylilies would have to become acclimatized to the cold. They would then need to be bare-rooted and moved into the refrigerator. The refrigerator would need its temperature to be set to a value that kills the rust. Hopefully that temperature would not be low enough to kill the daylilies. Or at least that temperature would hopefully not kill all the cultivars that had been newly purchased. Presumably the temperature would need to be low enough to kill the green leaves (or perhaps they could be removed before the plants were refrigerated).

I do not know how accurately the temperature that kills rust is known. I do know from personal experience that many daylilies do not survive -12C (10F) even in pots in an unheated building. That was the minimum temperature a substantial number of presumably cold acclimatized daylilies experienced last winter in an unheated building. A large proportion of the potted daylilies I had stored in the building died. Some of the daylilies may have been killed by temperatures that were not as low as the minimum temperature.

I will purposely buy plants from southern growers to bring rust here so I can check my seedlings for resistance. I will say that Floyd Cove has always dipped the plants I buy before they are shipped, and will remain rust free quite a while after being exposed to it- but once that stuff wears off, their plants can be total rust buckets. Maybe not all of them, but a good many.

This year, we had a mild winter and I was able to overwinter rust in my greenhouse on one single plant. I had also bought quite a few from the south to make sure I had it anyhow. My garden is about a quarter mile from my house, so I kept it isolated and away from the garden until after the regional tour. After that point, I turned it loose in the garden. We are in a drought right now and it is so dry that we don't even have any dew at night, so my garden actually looks really good and very little rust is showing. Only a plant here and there, but a great many show none at all. Those that do have it will be the entire clump, and those without will also be the entire clump. In many cases, one will be adjacent to the other. While I haven't ever knowingly bred for resistance, I am pleased with the results.