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Jul 10, 2016 2:14 AM CST
I forgot to mention in a post I did that besides the abundant case of fungal leave streak, aphids were unusually heavy this year (again, probably due to the wet, cool spring). Several plants had fans that were almost gutted from the center because of aphids. I managed to get a few dry days in there that I was able to spray for them. Both of these problems have been significant this year, more so that any any previous years since I moved back to Arkansas.
You can bury a lot of troubles digging in the dirt. ~Author Unknown
Jul 10, 2016 6:06 AM CST
|I have noticed in my upper beds (one's not in the bog) that summer dormancy is really hitting them hard. The foliage is just dying out. I have been working on cleaning them up and hope to finish that job today. I am sure some of that dead foliage is attributable to leaf streak and rust also, but the hot dry weather seems to really send them into a downward spiral.
I have been thinking the same thing (would a shot of fertilizer be advisable now), I was hesitant because if the plant is reacting in a natural way of survival to the heat and dry stresses, would forcing it to grow with fertilizer be the wise thing to do? I would love some feedback from others who go through heat stress every summer with their plants and how they handle it. It just seems to me it would be good to feed the plants after they go though the major bloom cycle and then start sending up a lot of rebloom scapes! I like the idea of fertilizer in the spring and fall, for convenience and for economical reasons, but still wonder if a midsummer application might pay a big bonus as far as plant productivity.
Jul 10, 2016 8:09 AM CST
Seedfork said:............. the hot dry weather seems to really send them into a downward spiral.
Happens here, for sure. It seems to also be tied to a post bloom rest. Later blooming varieties stay actively growing until they are about mid way through bloom. At that point, outer leaves begin to die back and the die back increases at a faster rate the closer they are to finishing bloom. Those that send up rebloom scapes seem to delay the die back until the rebloom is finishing up. Immediately post bloom the fans rapidly lose the foliage, no matter if I water every day or not. I'm not doing it this year, but in previous seasons I've had the plants on a regular rotation of liquid fertilize throughout the summer months. I can't tell it changed anything in how the fans handled the hot, dry heat. Without the fertilize regimen this year, they are behaving in the same way as they have previously. How quickly a plant recovers from post bloom or heat dormancy is variable. Some take a longer rest.
An example this year would be the performance of 'Tusk'. It was the earliest plant to bloom and was nearly finished blooming when other daylilies were just starting. It began on May 20 and ended on June 13. Three scapes and even though we were still in an unusual cycle of rain when it stopped, it still went into a rest period - dying foliage and not actively growing. It only rested about two weeks and then began actively growing again and has produced a rebloom scape which has now bloomed. As a plant, it looks like fresh spring growth compared to most everything else at the moment. I think not all the dying fan foliage can be attributed to the heat, though I definitely think that increases it. I'm also not convinced a fertilize regimen will cause new active growth unless the plant itself is ready to do that. I'm seeing some active new growth now on some that finished blooming early even though we are entering the hottest time of summer and I'm short on rainfall as usual.
These are just my observations over the last several years. I really don't make any attempt to document things scientifically or keep up with specific cultivars. So.. for what it's worth .
Jul 10, 2016 8:51 AM CST
From some of your pictures, I'm pretty sure your plants have a bad case of spider mites. They're tiny, and live on the underside of the leaves, which protects them from rainfall and overhead watering. (They are not associated with any webs you may notice on your scapes or buds) What I have done to keep them under control is spray the plants from below, using a fairly brisk spray nozzle. Adding some insecticidal soap to the water helps a lot, if you have a convenient way to get it into your hose-stream. You could also use a pump sprayer with an insecticidal soap, but the hose is faster, cheaper, and much more convenient.
Do it in the morning so that the foliage can dry during the day. Every plant appreciates a good bath now and again, and daylilies are no exception. Over many years of growing, dividing, and repotting daylilies in a dry-summer climate, I'd say that few plants enjoy and appreciate water more than a daylily. In fact, whenever a daylily loses vigor or is suffering from some mysterious malady and gets to the point where withholding water is proposed as a remedy, that daylily is usually beyond help.
Also, I would not be so quick to reach for a chemical every time a little problem arises. There are a host of beneficial mites, small spiders and other critters residing in your garden, and chemicals are fairly indiscriminate in their effects. Often, the natural balance is so thrown off by one spray that others are then necessary to eliminate other pests which thrive because their predators have been wiped out.
Aphids and spider mites are fairly easy to control with water sprays, while slugs, snails and earwigs can be very effectively controlled with a headlamp and a pair of hemostats.
Jul 10, 2016 9:23 AM CST
|I am a leaf puller. If it is yellowing or browning and looks like leaf streak, I pull it. Often the leaves come off very easily. If it doesn't, I leave it to pull another day.
Most of the daylilies that bloomed for me this Spring/Early Summer decided to rest after blooming. Pulling leaves reduced their size/presence in my garden. Now I am noticing leaves replacing removed/old ones and even some small fans being produced next to the older fans. Lillian's Alabama Sunrise completely disappeared. (It is listed as an evergreen.) I figured I lost it because the fans were pretty seriously attacked by rust and thrips. I felt lucky that I actually got to see some beautiful blooms before that happened. I typically leave the area a daylily disappears untouched for a few months, just in case. Well, in this case, LAS is now sending up new leaves to make new fans. I must say that I am pretty surprised. It was acquired not long ago, so I can only attribute some of what I feared was it's demise to transplant shock.
I have registered daylilies in a morning shade/afternoon full sun raised bed. I have seedlings in all-day, full sun in another raised bed. I fertilized with Osmocote in early Spring and added more about a week or so ago. I am now starting to see some reblooms. Osmocote is time-released. I have heard in higher temps, it releases quicker. Everything is getting watered every other day currently because the heat and sun factor is quite harsh here right now. It is so hot for just the beginning of July that I can't remember it ever being such high temps and heat factor. Miserable for plants and critters and humans. Not much rain to speak of either, so the micro-sprinklers are having to provide the moisture. It is well water. All my plants love rain water (probably needing the acid in the rain as my soil is alkaline). But I have to say, the daylilies look better this year than any other year previously. Usually this time of year into the hottest part of summer (August 7 September), they struggle and look pretty sad. I don't know if it is the regular watering, the Osmocote, or what. I have seen very little rust this Spring and have not seen but a small amount currently. It's to the point that rust does not seem to be a problem anymore. Thrips though are and probably always will be an issue. (I won't use strong chemicals.) Which is why I pull leaves.
I am curious to see how many of my daylilies actually rebloom this year. I've already had some. In fact, Betty Warren Woods has recently sent up a 3rd scape that will be blooming in a couple of weeks. If it wasn't so thrip susceptible, it would be one of my top 5 daylilies. So..... instead, I am breeding her with cultivars that seem to resist thrips. I love her blooms. Perfect every single one! A lovely cultivar minus the foliage attraction for thrips.
What lies behind us and what lies before us are tiny matters, compared to what lies within us.
Garden Rooms and Becky's Budget Garden
Jul 10, 2016 11:54 AM CST
|Thanks to everyone for your opinion. All my DLs are still blooming, Spanish Glow has something has 34 buds on one scapem excpet for Always Afternoon that after two blooms lost all the buds.
I know they like a good shower but since I couldn't know for sure if there is some leaf streak I watered to the ground. I think I lost a prolif because all the scape and the leaves of the prolif were all yellow and dry. Anyway I tried to salvage it. This evening I watered from top so I washed carefully all the leaves.
There's something going on apart mites and drying for heat because I have two potentillas with brown spot on leaves, leaves get pale and fall. And the hedge my neighbour has really close to one of the bed has bad leaves, something like mold, they fall and rot in between my plants.
I don't speak to him anymore since he cut all the DLs in that bed entering in my property while I was not there to cut his hedge and never apologized for the damage. Just a side note, I need to get away from this place
Until now I have not lost any DL.
I also had few (luckily) blooms infected with gall midge.
The weather is hot (95F) and humid and it's not raining since last week of june.
I'll let them go on their way for now and see how things evolve.
Sabrina, North Italy
My blog: http://hemerocallis.info
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