Ask a Question forum: Custom Fertilizer

Views: 181, Replies: 13 » Jump to the end
Florida
cardy_c
Apr 12, 2018 3:09 PM CST
I sent off soil samples to get checked before I lay a new lawn with seed.
They tell me I need 25-0-20 (2.5lb per 1000 ft per year)
Can anyone tell me how to go about getting this as I have called garden centers they only have the general use fertilizers and fertilizer suppliers are looking for 50lb minimum order.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Minnesota (Zone 3b)
RpR
Apr 12, 2018 3:55 PM CST
Do a local on-line search.
Check farm fleet store and such.

How big is your lawn going to be?
[Last edited by RpR - Apr 13, 2018 10:17 AM (+)]
Give a thumbs up | Quote | Post #1682214 (2)
Name: Lyn
Weaverville, California (Zone 8a)
Garden Ideas: Level 1 Garden Sages Celebrating Gardening: 2015
Image
RoseBlush1
Apr 12, 2018 5:42 PM CST
@cardy_c ....

You don't have to get fertilizers with the exact numbers recommended, especially if you understand what the three numbers in the formula mean.

The first number is for nitrogen.

The second number is for phosphates.

The third number is for potassium.

So what they are telling you is that you need a high nitrogen, no phosphate or low phosphate, higher potassium fertilizer.

It makes sense. Nitrogen molecules do not stay in the soil, so depending on your lawn, drainage, soil and other variables, adding nitrogen to lawns is pretty normal.

Phosphates move slowly through the soil, so it is usually not necessary to add more when you are doing a general feeding unless the soil test show that you need more.

The potassium number, varies for different reasons. Others with more soil knowledge than I have can address that part of the formula.

So if you get a fertilizer that isn't the exact number recommended. you can still get close.
I'd rather weed than dust ... the weeds stay gone longer.
Name: Rj
Just S of the twin cities of M (Zone 4b)
Garden Ideas: Level 1 Plant Identifier Million Pollinator Garden Challenge
Image
crawgarden
Apr 12, 2018 6:36 PM CST
http://www.bfgsupply.com/order...

Lakeland Fl : https://www.harrells.com/produ...
Prudence, indeed, will dictate that Governments long established should not be changed for light and transient causes; and accordingly all experience hath shewn, that mankind are more disposed to suffer, while evils are sufferable, than to right themselves by abolishing the forms to which they are accustomed.
Name: Yardenman
Maryland (Zone 7a)
Image
Yardenman
Apr 13, 2018 3:43 AM CST
cardy_c said:I sent off soil samples to get checked before I lay a new lawn with seed.
They tell me I need 25-0-20 (2.5lb per 1000 ft per year)
Can anyone tell me how to go about getting this as I have called garden centers they only have the general use fertilizers and fertilizer suppliers are looking for 50lb minimum order.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.


If you are deeply tilling the new lawn area and I mean at least a foot deep, they are telling you need Nitrogen and Potassium in the soil. But adding 25-0-20 is overboard for a lawn. Basically, if the NPK adds up to more than 15, you are wasting it and it is fasting-acting but low lasting. And it will send you into a cycle of 4-6 times per year adding what is lost.

If I may suggest, add some slow release fertilizer more in the line of 10-0-4. But as I was checking on this, I found a 10-0-6 slow release organic fertilizer and ordered 2 bags (that covers 10,000 sq ft) on Amazon ( I get nothing for this, just good happenstance). Its
Safer Brand Ringer Lawn Restore, Lawn Fertilizer - 25 Pounds
4.3 out of 5 stars 318 customer reviews

But the important thing is not to try to add too much at any one time and use something that is slow release.

It's the difference between eating a big cupcake vs a few ounces of meat and beans with a small salad if get the drift...


[Last edited by Yardenman - Apr 13, 2018 3:46 AM (+)]
Give a thumbs up | Quote | Post #1682538 (5)
Name: Sue
Ontario, Canada (Zone 4a)
Daylilies Birds Enjoys or suffers cold winters Native Plants and Wildflowers Butterflies Annuals
Region: Canadian Keeps Horses Dog Lover Plant Identifier Garden Sages
Image
sooby
Apr 13, 2018 4:44 AM CST
A few thoughts. I would not put the fertilizer down before you seed, I would wait until the grass is up and running. In your climate I assume you would ideally need to split applications throughout the year unless you can get a very extended slow release (expensive).

You can get two different fertilizers, say something close to 25-0-0 and another for 0-0-20 or, as Lyn said, get something combined that is close enough.

Remember also that you can get something with half that analysis (say 12-0-10) and apply twice the recommended amount. Or, conversely, get something like 50-0-40 and apply half the recommended amount (if there is such a thing - just an example to explain the concept). What counts is the ratio and the amount applied rather than just the analysis.

If you go for something that is outside an easy division to get the ratio, you can calculate now much N (nitrogen) and K (potassium) you need to apply from the analysis they gave and the amount recommended. Was it clear that they meant 2.5 lbs of a fertilizer with that specified analysis, or did they mean 2.5 lbs of nitrogen per 1,000?
[Last edited by sooby - Apr 13, 2018 4:49 AM (+)]
Give a thumbs up | Quote | Post #1682555 (6)
Name: Yardenman
Maryland (Zone 7a)
Image
Yardenman
Apr 13, 2018 7:03 AM CST
I should have pointed out that I was suggesting improving the soil before planting grass seed in the Fall. Spring grass planting don't work well generally here or south, but in your cool climate you might get away with it.

Sometimes we all talk from personal local experience, LOL!
Name: Sue
Ontario, Canada (Zone 4a)
Daylilies Birds Enjoys or suffers cold winters Native Plants and Wildflowers Butterflies Annuals
Region: Canadian Keeps Horses Dog Lover Plant Identifier Garden Sages
Image
sooby
Apr 13, 2018 8:07 AM CST
Fall sowing is better here too, Yardenman, but cardy_c is looking for fertilizer now so I assumed the plan is to seed now also.
Florida
cardy_c
Apr 13, 2018 10:09 AM CST
Hi All - thanks a lot for all the replies. I am located in SE Florida, and I was hoping to start the lawn within the next week or so. I have found a local supplier with a 50lb of something close enough they tell me I guess if stored properly it will keep me going for a while. I attached an actual snip of the soil test results, my interpretation of it is to apply about 4.5 lbs per 1000 sq foot per year. My lawn is actually about 1200 Sq Ft so I am rounding it down to 1000 (so I don't burn it) and I was going to apply about 1lb 4 times a year. Starting with 1 lb before the seeds go in.
Does that seem about right? Any thoughts and advise would be greatly appreciated.
Thumb of 2018-04-13/cardy_c/d8216a

Minnesota (Zone 3b)
RpR
Apr 13, 2018 10:19 AM CST
crawgarden said:http://www.bfgsupply.com/order-now/15/fertilizer/343767/proscape-20-0-25-expo-195-50lb-45pl

Lakeland Fl : https://www.harrells.com/produ...

Bravo, bravo!

Minnesota (Zone 3b)
RpR
Apr 13, 2018 10:36 AM CST
cardy_c said:Hi All - thanks a lot for all the replies. I am located in SE Florida, and I was hoping to start the lawn within the next week or so. I have found a local supplier with a 50lb of something close enough they tell me I guess if stored properly it will keep me going for a while. I attached an actual snip of the soil test results, my interpretation of it is to apply about 4.5 lbs per 1000 sq foot per year. My lawn is actually about 1200 Sq Ft so I am rounding it down to 1000 (so I don't burn it) and I was going to apply about 1lb 4 times a year. Starting with 1 lb before the seeds go in.
Does that seem about right? Any thoughts and advise would be greatly appreciated.

Just what type of fertilizer are they selling you?
Fertilizer for maintenance does not work well for starting a lawn , unless you prep. the soil well in advance to let it break down.
For new, seeded lawn, in bad soil, you had best spend the bucks for starter fertilizer to put down as you seed or there is a good chance your grass will come up and die.
Till soil down six inches or more.
If you do not till your soil, chances of failure gets higher.
You MUST keep seeded soil moist down at least 1/2 inch till grass appears.
Unless the soil had been loosened water will run off , and there will be very thick spots of grass and bare spots.
It is best to compact the soil after first seeding and then seed again.
How are you going to broadcast seeds?
Best to do as one tills a garden one direction then a second time across that pattern.
SEED HEAVILY.
Florida
cardy_c
Apr 13, 2018 12:56 PM CST
They have given me a 16-2-16 but it looks like it's for established grass - any particular started fertilizer you think would work best with my soil? It's really sandy, builders left it looking like the moon after recent construction so I ended up leveling it with a spade and a wheel barrow, finishing it off by trailing a lump of 6x6 around on a rope. I found muscles I never knew existed, I've never been so ripped in my life! I removed about 2 1/2 foot of dirt from the back (and built that Cedar wall) and moved it to the front to make that level pad. Just off to the right I have a pile of compost bigger than waist high that I intend to riddle and spread either before or after the seed not sure which would be best, I could be doing be 2 or 3 times what I have but it should be a help. The pad had been sitting like this for a few months, it gets very soft, dusty and sandy when dry or compact and firm when wet and I periodically go around and remove any new growth by hand, I have not used any weed killer on it. There is very little growth comes up now. It's a fine bladed Zoysia seed that I will be using.

Any thoughts, tips or recommendations will be greatly appreciated as I really would like this to turn out well after the number or hours and gallons of sweat I have in it.

Thumb of 2018-04-13/cardy_c/9f17e2

(BTW the artificial grass around the court was nothing to do with me and I couldn't stop it)

Minnesota (Zone 3b)
RpR
Apr 13, 2018 1:29 PM CST
Rent a garden tractor with a roto-tiller attached and roto-till the whole shebang.
After you seed, usually you can rent a tractor with a roller, seed and roll, then seed again.
Compost before the second seeding.
I do not know how you will water it but water often , preferably, easy said, not a pounding watering.

It is easy to spend other peoples money, but if you can get it back there, a dump truck or two of mulch put down before you roto-till could make a world of difference.
It would hold water better, than sand.

https://www.google.com/search?...
Find one of these in your area.

[Last edited by RpR - Apr 13, 2018 1:37 PM (+)]
Give a thumbs up | Quote | Post #1682925 (13)
Name: Lyn
Weaverville, California (Zone 8a)
Garden Ideas: Level 1 Garden Sages Celebrating Gardening: 2015
Image
RoseBlush1
Apr 13, 2018 1:29 PM CST
WOW !

In my experience, which is limited in that I haven't had to establish a lawn, I think once a builder has scraped off all of may have been good top soil, he has left you with subsoil, which may be dead soil in that it has no organic material in it.

Do you need to get that lawn in now ? I am thinking it might be wiser to build your soil up to viable soil before planting anything.

You might be wiser to spread all of that beautiful compost over the area you plan for your lawn and allow it to decompose and feed the subsoil. You can work on that base to create a real top soil layer until you are satisfied and then establish your lawn in healthy, viable soil.

Long distance gardening has it challenges in that it is impossible to really SEE your soil or FEEL it.

This also gives you time to see what kind of drainage you will have for your lawn / garden.

I can understand your sense of urgency ... especially with all of the work you have been doing, but starting out with good soil is the best approach in the long run.

Just some thoughts.
I'd rather weed than dust ... the weeds stay gone longer.

« Garden.org Homepage
« Back to the top
« Forums List
« Ask a Question forum
Only the members of the Members group may reply to this thread.

Member Login:

Username:

Password:

[ Join now ]

Today's site banner is by Marilyn and is called "Mixed Coleus"