Avatar for cnichols38
May 17, 2018 9:56 AM CST
Thread OP
Mount Orab, Ohio, zone 6a
last fall i purchased two large (5ft) paw paw trees. I know that they are notoriously hard to transplant, they were put in amended soil and loaded with organic compost and this spring they have been watered every day and given all purpose fertilizer. One is dead, the other has green cambium when scratched but has no leaves and no swollen buds, I am going to try to add mycorrhizae (spelling) to it. Question is there anything else I can do to keep this tree alive? The nursery will send me a replacement for the dead one in December and is there anything else different I could do to get it to live?
May 17, 2018 10:33 AM CST
Name: Rick R.
Minneapolis,MN, USA z4b,Dfb/a
Garden Photography The WITWIT Badge Seed Starter Wild Plant Hunter Region: Minnesota Hybridizer
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Unless the soil the roots are in is dry, there is no need to water a dormant plant until it starts to grow. Certainly not every day in the spring, even if it was growing. No need to fertilize either until growth begins. I don't think this was the downfall in this case, but it is not good for any plant, and didn't help. Any mycorrhizae won't help at this stage. Really, all you can do is wait for it to grow (or die) on its own. if it starts to grow, then you can try something to help it along.
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May 17, 2018 11:02 AM CST
central Illinois
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Young paw paw trees need shade to start off well for the first couple or few years, after all it is noted as an understory tree in a forest.
To achieve that when I first planted 2 starts of the tree, I grew the quite large multi branched sunflower 'Kong' next to the transplanted tree starts. Shade provided.They (sunflower) self seeded and were there for the second and third year as well. No fruit till year 7, if I recall correctly.
Are you aware that once established they (Paw paws) will aggressively attempt to establish a colony?
Thumb of 2018-05-17/jmorth/0ed064 Floweri)ng Paw Paw tree 6 days ago.
Nothing that's been done can ever be changed.
Last edited by jmorth May 17, 2018 11:06 AM Icon for preview
Avatar for cnichols38
May 17, 2018 11:41 AM CST
Thread OP
Mount Orab, Ohio, zone 6a
These are not very young, they are over 5 ft tall (closer to 6 ft) and have a 1 inch diameter trunk so I don't think sun is the issue, in the same general area, I have three grafted that are doing good (3 ft) and one that was just yanked out of the ground and given to me by a friend about 3 years ago that is only about 2-2.5 ft but is also leafed out. I got impatient for fruit and bought the larger ones. I am fine with a colony, they are in an area that has elderberry bushes and a couple other trees. I know you cannot get the taproot on the large ones but they had a substantial amount smaller roots. I am trying everything I can think of to help these roots get established, especially since our soil is clay, but I am running out of ideas. I have heard that topping the trees limits the amount of energy they expend but I am afraid to do it on such large trees.
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