Hi everyone. Today I got my first Venus Fly Trap. I'm contemplating putting it outside but I'm afraid the temperatures here in summer are too hot. Last year it made it to 109. Should I just keep it indoors? I've been collecting rain water from the roof but I could get distilled water from the store. I'm excited about growing it.

The biggest issue with all CPs is keeping them moist. They live in boggy areas so wet is a must. VFTs grow naturally in an area near the SE corner of my home state of NC, a little west of Wilmington. It USUALLY does not get into the triple digits but occasionally we do see low to mid 100s. They love sun - their color really pops out when they get plenty of light. Heat doesn't seem to be a big issue as long as they stay well hydrated. Most folks seem to pot them & keep the pot in a container that allows water to sit 1/4 - 2/3 of the way up the side of the pot. BE SURE the crown stays above the standing water.
I grow Sarracenia & Nepenthes mostly, but have had VFTs I keep in a bog garden with the Sarracenias. The Napenthes sit on the front porch during the summer so they don't get too much sun, but everything else gets all the sun it can (I have a tree that shades them for about 2-3 hours in the late morning to just after noon).

Finally, I find cold is my problem with VFTs, rather than hot. They go dormant in the ground but I seem to lose some.. The weather is not much different here than Wilmington so I suspect they get too dry in the winter. The potted ones have done fine coming in for the winter, though they too will often die back & re-emerge in spring.

Rain water is excellent - it is the only water I use for my CPs. I know some use revers osmosis, distilled, etc, because they can't get rainwater. In an emergency even tap water works for a single watering; continual use of it will build up minerals that will be harmful, but in an emergency it's better to keep them watered & then flush them well when proper is available, than to let them dry out.

Thanks so much Bob. I'll move it to a container and put a little water in it to keep it moist. Since it was growing indoors should I wait to put it in more sun? Also when it goes dormant in winter you said you bring the potted ones indoors, so they don't need the cold during dormancy? I've been collecting rainwater in a big tub since we've had a lot of rain this Spring, but in Summer we barely get rain so I may have to resort to distilled water. I'd love to grow Sarracenias but I got some Nepenthes sanguinea seedlings a couple of days ago. I have all of the CPs in a shallow tray of rainwater in a shady area.

Hi Cameron, Think of them like any houseplant you would put outdoors for the summer. You might need to acclimate them to more sun by starting with less and moving them to increase the light. They will certainly want all the light they can get for their best colors to come out. If they haven't had that then they can acclimate over a week or two with more light; it's not that much different than coming from a less sunny place and need to acclimate/ begin to tan so we don't sunburn.

My Sarracenia are planted in 2.5 gallon "ponds" I get from Lowes. These "ponds" are what folks use for cascades between ponds. Anyway, I fill them almost 1/4 with gravel then put in my mix of peat moss and Turface (that's a baked clay that looks about like cat litter; it's used for the infields of baseball diamonds); some folks use sand and perlite or gravel, anything like that to help give some spaces in the peat (I've read that some also add a bit of sphagnum moss); my ratio is about 1/2 to 2/3 peat and the rest Turface, sand, gravel, whatever to give space.

With any CP mix we want something with NO nutrient value (so no compost/topsoil), and something that holds water. Since they have adapted to using bugs for their nutritional needs they won't get much if anything from the soil. Peat is the perfect medium for that and it mimics natural habitat well; the gravel or other such material ensures plenty of water will soak into the peat. The crowns of the plants need to stay above the water line - they are bog plants not aquatic.

Regarding watering, I find I'm using about a quart to water each of my 2.5 gal ponds (I know there is plenty of water in the bottom so I don't usually water daily). That would come to about a pint or so a day per pond. Unlike the potted plants those don't evaporate as quickly (I have a layer of Turface & small gravel that works like mulch). I haven't kept track of how much water I use for the Nepenthes and potted ones - I just water when the trays begin to run low, which varies by how humid , windy, and hot it is; I water until the trays fill back up, and that usually lasts them several days.

As a side note: when I moved my 2.5 gal ponds to a sunnier location I noticed a slight anaerobic odor from one; that would be expected since air doesn't get into the saturated mix. Anyway I've begun to wonder if there might not be a symbiotic relationship with anaerobic microbes similar to the relationship "regular" plants have with fungi & microbes in regular soil. I'm not a biologist so I wouldn't begin to know how to investigate that but I would think it would be an interesting biology project for a student who is into such things.

Many people grow CPs for the uniqueness of their carnivore behavior. I enjoy their adaptation of leaves to such unusual shapes and functions. I especially like the colors they produce; most plants don't have the brilliant reds, yellows, oranges, browns, and golds of CPs. The "stained glass" effect of many Serracenias is outstanding. We expect whites and purples in flowers but not in their leaves.

Though many plants can move their leaves to follow the sun, few other plants have VFT's ability to move their leaves quickly, much less to be able to catch an insect; I'm not able to catch a housefly (maybe I should be embarrassed to admit a plant is faster than me?)

The more I learn about any plant the more in awe I am of the miracles of life, and the more in awe I stand in how perfectly interconnected living things are. I just wish we humans could catch up to the rest of the world.

Thanks again Bob for the wealth of information. I'm going to look for those 2.5 gal ponds at Lowe's, they sound perfect. I need to look for some Turface, I think they sell It at the Tractor Supply store a couple of towns away. I need to find a good local source for peat that doesn't have any fertilizer in it. The only peat I see for sale around here is Miracle Gro. I really like the stained glass look on the Sarrecenias. Thanks again Bob, I'm learning so much.

I would think any good nursery supply or landscaping supply should have peat moss. And yes you should stay away from MiracleGro peat because it has fertilizer added. MiracleGro's is fine for seedlings & "regular" plants, but fertilizer will easily burn CP roots.

If you want Turface but can't find it you might ask the sports faculty at a high school or town recreation center to see if they can direct you to whoever provides it for their baseball fields. Plain old gravel will work, but I like the size of Turface - as I mentioned it looks about like kitty litter in texture (I use it in lots of different mixes, not just CPs).

Like many gardeners I have things I like for my mixes. I often think discussions about what a mix should contain should be in "alt.religion" blogs since people can have very strong beliefs about it. Bottom line though is what we can get our hands on, what our particular habits are (i.e. do I over or under water? that helps determine what I should use in my mixes), and what we grow; so please don't feel you have to use what I use. All that CPs need is a "sterile" mix (no nutrients) like peat moss. Adding sand, Perlite, Turface, or gravel "thins" the peat making it less "heavy", allowing constant moisture without all of the roots sitting in water. I would love to be able to visit a natural VFT locale just to be able to see what the natural soil looks like, but because of poaching and destruction of habitat those areas are off limits and stiff penalties are levied on trespassers. And with my luck I'd find snakes rather than the plants even if I had an authorized guide, so I visit them in civilization.

If you are not familiar with Sarracenia Northwest,
( www.growcarnivorousplants.com ), Jeff Dallas & Jacob Farin in my opinion, are fantastic sources of CP info. They have a lot of videos especially with their free newsletters (I think some of them may be on YouTube but don't quote me). They learned as a hobby from scratch like so many of us, and have built a successful business from that knowledge. They love sharing tips and ideas with fellow CP lovers and are very encouraging! I learned so much from their videos and web site about CPs in general as well as specific issues I was having with particular types (VTFs being at the head of that list). There are many others out there who have built businesses from a hobby/fascination with CPs who also are a wealth of information. I would think anyone with a business dealing exclusively in CPs would be a great source of help, and they have run into the same pitfalls we do, so see what information they have on their web sites, and don't be afraid to ask them... it's a passion with them!

There's a few local nurseries that I could check out. I saw some coarse sand at Lowe's thar I usually buy for otbsr plants. I wonder if it would work along with the peat? It's sad that there's poaching and habitat destruction where VFTs naturally grow.
I'll definitely check out Sarracenia Northwest. I usually look at orchids videos online on YouTube. Thanks again Bob for the information. If I manage to keep my CP alive, that will be a major accomplishment for me.

My first CP mixes were peat, sand & Perlite. That worked well until I got Nepenthes which I put in hanging baskets. The mix was so heavy it literally tore the plastic baskets off the hangers (I think wind swinging them every which way added to the failure). I have since changed from sand to the Turface (I probably could have added a lot of Perlite I suppose), and moved my Nepenthes to stands rather than in the air and they had been happy.

Try the sand & peat if that's what's available - it won't hurt them, and that's a good mix. They need constant moisture and plenty of sun (acclimate them to sun if needed like any other plant). Nurseries should have peat - at least in small bags; lots of people and nurseries use peat in mixes for starting seeds because it holds moisture very well. I took me a while to find a place that sold it in larger quantities (mine doesn't quite all fit in a large plastic trash can!) but if you don't need much it should be fairly easy to find.

Hopefully others will help with suggestions with fly traps. I find them challenging over the winter but don't seem to have much problem when they are not dormant. In spring through autumn they sit out happily doing their VFT thing.

Ok I'll try the peat and sand mixture first. Right now I have my Nepenthes in a mix of sphagnum moss and orchid bark with coarse perlite. Once they grow larger I'd like to put them in hanging baskets. I may move everything to a brighter location since the VFT and Sundew have been in dappled shade for over a week.

I'm a bit worried about the VFTs during their dormancy in winter.

If you enjoy reading, find a copy of The Savage Garden by Peter D'Amato. He owns California Carnivores and his book is a great resource.

I grow Nepenthes in my greenhouse and Sarracenia outside in a man-made bog full of peat and perlite (mixed half and half). The only way to buy peat that hasn't been fortified is in a bale. Lowes should have it - its always the cheap stuff.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Fafar...

Make sure the peat is completely rehydrated. If you leave any dry spots, it will burn your plants' little roots right off.

The Nepenthes are potted in sphagnum moss and chunky perlite.

I have never been successful with VFT's so have stopped bothering. The Drosera, on the other hand, have become my newest greenhouse weed.

I think I've heard of that book on another forum.

I'll check Lowe's again to see if they have bales of peat. I didn't know the dry spotd in peat would burn the roots, thanks for telling me that. I have all of my little carnivorous plants in a shallow saucer with a little rainwater added.

I'm worried about keeping my VFT alive. That's good to know Drosera grows like a weed.

How to care for Venus Flytraps By T. Randall

Flytraps are NOT houseplants. They are perennials and have special needs that must be met or they will weaken and die if grown indoors.

Grow them in FULL ALL DAY SUN OUTDOORS. If your plant is new acclimate it slowly to full all day Sunlight OUTDOORS. Look up (Google) "Hardening off". Sit it in a shallow tray of rain water, distilled water or reverse osmosis water ONLY during the growing season. NO TAP WATER unless the TDS reading is below 50ppm. TDS meters are cheap and can be found on Amazon.com or eBay.

In the fall when night time temperatures approach freezing they going into their dormancy period. THEY MUST have 3-4 months of winter dormancy. Drain off excess water from their pots and place somewhere where the temps. can be maintained between 35F and 45F for the next 3-4 months. 3 month minimum. Keep them moist only, not waterlogged.

In late winter after 3 months or more of sleep they will be ready to wake up. Acclimate them once again to full Sun if they wintered over in a dark spot. Keep them from freezing solid. They can take a brief freeze but not repeated freeze/thaws.

These plants multiply and will fill their pot in a year or 2. Repot in a 50/50 mix of peat moss and perlite. DO NOT USE MIRACLE GROW products for them. They contain fertilizers and will kill the plants! The plant gets it's fertilizer from insects. There is no need to feed them.

In spring they will send up a tall flower stalk. Healthy plants can be allowed to flower if you want seeds. Seeds will be shiny black and tear shaped when ready to harvest. If your plant is sickly looking or you don't want seeds cut the stalk as soon as you notice it starting to grow in early spring.

Seeds do not come true to their parent. Example: If the seeds are from DCXL they will not produce DCXL plants.

Thanks Daisy! I forgot about the peat being dry - it's lighter weight, easier to ship & store, but useless to us until it's hydrated.
The peat will take some time to hydrate. Some let it soak overnight though I've found 15-20 minutes works if I "mix" it with a hand fork and my hands to make sure everything is wet. I put it in a plastic trash can with a lid (that's the only thing that holds it all when I buy bales) and it stays moist. It goes in the trash can moist but not soggy and is ready the next time (it might need water but it soaks it up easily once it's moist).

Also, when I wet it I use rain water to keep unwanted chemicals out. If it were an emergency I suppose I would wet enough for what I had to have, use it, and flood it when there was enough water to flush it well.

Thanks Tommy for posting that. I copied and pasted the info. I'm wondering if I could leave mine out for winter and bring it indoors temporarily on really cold days. I'm slowly introducing all of my carnivorous plants to more sun. They're in a slightly sunnier spot.

tommyr said:How to care for Venus Flytraps By T. Randall

Flytraps are NOT houseplants. They are perennials and have special needs that must be met or they will weaken and die if grown indoors.

Grow them in FULL ALL DAY SUN OUTDOORS. If your plant is new acclimate it slowly to full all day Sunlight OUTDOORS. Look up (Google) "Hardening off". Sit it in a shallow tray of rain water, distilled water or reverse osmosis water ONLY during the growing season. NO TAP WATER unless the TDS reading is below 50ppm. TDS meters are cheap and can be found on Amazon.com or eBay.

In the fall when night time temperatures approach freezing they going into their dormancy period. THEY MUST have 3-4 months of winter dormancy. Drain off excess water from their pots and place somewhere where the temps. can be maintained between 35F and 45F for the next 3-4 months. 3 month minimum. Keep them moist only, not waterlogged.

In late winter after 3 months or more of sleep they will be ready to wake up. Acclimate them once again to full Sun if they wintered over in a dark spot. Keep them from freezing solid. They can take a brief freeze but not repeated freeze/thaws.

These plants multiply and will fill their pot in a year or 2. Repot in a 50/50 mix of peat moss and perlite. DO NOT USE MIRACLE GROW products for them. They contain fertilizers and will kill the plants! The plant gets it's fertilizer from insects. There is no need to feed them.

In spring they will send up a tall flower stalk. Healthy plants can be allowed to flower if you want seeds. Seeds will be shiny black and tear shaped when ready to harvest. If your plant is sickly looking or you don't want seeds cut the stalk as soon as you notice it starting to grow in early spring.

Seeds do not come true to their parent. Example: If the seeds are from DCXL they will not produce DCXL plants.

A very useful post, this. I copied to keep as I have been wanting to try a VFT. Please tell me, do these things ever get big enough to take on wasps? We're plagued with them at our getaway cabin. Wormwood Artemisia 'Powis Castle' is repelling them pretty well on the porch. But the non-stinging black ones find a way into the cabin (not sure how) and I'd like to be rid of them. I find them dead on the inside floor regularly. would love to try a VFT under the roof at the corner of the house I think they are getting in at.

A VFT would never be big enough to eat a wasp. The bigger problem is even if the VFT was big enough, it would only take care of a wasp about once every other month. Have you thought about using wasp traps?

I have considered it, but decided to try a wormwood plant (Artemisia 'Powis Castle') instead. I dont' want to kill them really, just get them to build their nests farther from where I move around. In just one month it has repelled the wasps from building any nests (and they were really bad about it) up under the porch roof eaves down at our Central Texas cabin property. I'm going to be rooting some more of that stuff to put at all 4 corners of the cabin! I read on the internet it would repel wasps and the dang thing really does!

That's interesting. Is it all kinds of Artemisia? Or just that one?

The only place I ever have wasps/hornets is in my Choke Cherry Tree.