I planted my plumeria stick in mid April. I'm worried about overwatering it. I've attached a couple of pictures to help see the growth. The "claws" look like they are drying up and dying. I have sprized it a few tines to see if that helps.

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That beautiful crown on top is a flower stalk (inflo). It is putting most of its energy into that at the moment. Just keep taking good care of it and it'll start putting out leaves for you. Since it has limited roots and its still trying to "be a tree", it can only really focus on 1 thing at a time. Don't over-water and slowly acclimate it to sunshine. Can't wait to see those blooms!

James, thank you. I have been reading other sites and blogs and I'm getting conflicting information,,, water... don't water, fertilize..... don't.... I'll follow your advise and read additional information recommended. I have 2 "claw" leaves that appear to be doing okay and are growing. Our weather here in eastern washington is warming up but still not consistent enough for me to risk putting it outside. Can I put it in direct sunlight outside? we've been in the mid 60s to 70s. Once we start warming up we will be in 80 and as hot as high 90s and a period of over 100 in the Columbia Basin. Thank you

You will hear and read a bunch of different things. Most of it is dependent upon experience, region, and personal preference. Like most things, there is no guarantee in gardening. As far as the watering (this is where experience is going to come into play), as long as it is in well draining soil and in warm temps, you can slightly water very occasionally. Since it doesn't have many roots established, you don't want to water too much--make sure it is fully drying out between "moistenings". As far as the sun, since it has been indoors, you can start putting it out when the weather is nice, but start it in a shaded or dappled shade area and slowly ramp it up to full sun over a week and a half or two.

Help... I think my plumeria is dying! I don't know if I should cut it off and replant it, repot it in different medium (I planted it in regular potting soil), fertilize it, water it! I have watered it very little after I called a place in Florida to get some advise and now wonder if I should not have done that. My plant has not behaved anything like what I read about what others have experienced! I have searched the internet and websites and can't find anything that addresses this. I don't want to loose it. Here are some pictures.

Is this a cutting or is it rooted? If it's a cutting you are trying to root you may have to cut off the bloom stalk, some have a harder time rooting when you leave the bloom stalk on.

I'm planted it hoping it would root. I don't know if it has.I didn't want to disturb it by digging it up. Should be pulled it up, cut where it's still firm, let it sit for a few days, dip it in hormone powder then plant it in cactus medium? What about the bloom head? There probably 4 inches of firm stem and the new growth above that.

Don't recut it - it would need to callous again and with it being so dehydrated it would not be beneficial.
It is unlikely to have roots; usually once the cutting is rooted the leaves start growing, so that is the sign you are waiting for. Meanwhile, as a wise friend who is no longer with us used to say, 'go and bother something else for a while'.....
I again recommend cutting off the bloom stalk, although I know that is hard to do....

okay. I will cut the bloom stalk off. Do I cut it just above the leaves? Do I water it?

Should I repot it in a cactus type soil medium as well?

Hi! If it's in regular potting soil without any amendment (perlite, etc) for quicker draining, then yes. Plumeria need quick draining soil and do not like having 'wet feet'.

No watering until you seen active leaf growth.

with Hetty and James. I have encountered similar issue years ago and took me the hard way and eventually a dead cutting to understand it. If it has no roots, and it has a bloom stalk, as painful as it is to cut off the bloomstalk, better do it, if you want to save the plant.

Feel the entire stem, it should be firm and inspect below soil line to truly see if your plant has no rotting issues. No fertilizers or watering yet at this point, got to be very, very patient. I position my plant in part sun and part shade outdoors, if it is in too much direct sun right away it is also too stressful. If your area will suddenly have a rain forecast and it still has no leaves, protect it from rain.

This is how you learn to grow plumerias. Through trial and error. Unfortunately I don't think it will survive. Cutting off the inflo, should of been the very first thing done before planting. Sorry you had to learn the hard way. Honestly there are several things you need to do in order to successfully root a plumeria cutting. I've had several rot over the years. I never root Reds or Purples. Only graft them because they are very hard to root. Only root in straight perlite. I use a clear plastic bottle so I can see when the roots have formed. I soak the perlite with water and let drain for 10 minutes or so. Then I put the cutting in the bottle 3 inches deep. I don't water until new leaves start to grow and I can see plenty of roots. So it takes anywhere from 6 - 9 weeks. Watering again to soon is what will kill them. Good luck

I was able to root a red (Scott Pratt) last year. Definitely took longer than the others. Used Cactus mix in a 1/2 gallon pot. Started in early May but it took. Here it is now, today, 1 year later.

I have a rooted Scott Pratt, a Malaysian red, and a Rose Red. They're not any more challenging, in my opinion, just gotta have more patience.

Brenorangecountyca said:This is how you learn to grow plumerias. Through trial and error. Unfortunately I don't think it will survive. Cutting off the inflo, should of been the very first thing done before planting. Sorry you had to learn the hard way. Honestly there are several things you need to do in order to successfully root a plumeria cutting. I've had several rot over the years. I never root Reds or Purples. Only graft them because they are very hard to root. Only root in straight perlite. I use a clear plastic bottle so I can see when the roots have formed. I soak the perlite with water and let drain for 10 minutes or so. Then I put the cutting in the bottle 3 inches deep. I don't water until new leaves start to grow and I can see plenty of roots. So it takes anywhere from 6 - 9 weeks. Watering again to soon is what will kill them. Good luck

Do you cut the top off the bottle or make drainage holes in the bottom?

Thanks to everyone for sharing your experiences. I am going to try again. I like the idea of the clear bottle. I think that was the most anxiety provoking issue... is it rooting or not! definitively will go with the perlite. I have already purchased some. Should I wait to order a new plant or can they be started anytime? Our weather here in Eastern Washington as been very odd - 92 degrees then low 60s. I want to be able to move the plant outside for the heat and sunshine but worry that our weather isn't consistent enough yet. In the house I had a grow light but no extra heat on the plant - maybe I'll get some sort of heat lamp type to increase the heat, any suggestions on what works best and is safe in the house?
again. thank you!