This is a bulb of Blossom Peacock that I received today. Houston, we have some issues! There's a big gash, which evidently had caused rot, before the bulb was peeled back and allowed to dry out. You can still see the dry rot, and the entire outer layer is loose.

I potted it up, making sure to plan it really high, and sprinkled the area liberally with ground cinnamon. I'm worried though if it's going to make it. My experience with bulbs like this is not encouraging.

What a bummer! Blossom Peacock is one of my favorites.

We you able to contact the retailer?

That looks like damage from when it was harvested. If the rot hasn't reached the embryo scapes, you will get the first blooming, but that looks like a 50/50 chance of surviving a year. It is always a good idea to offer to return the bulb to the "retailer". It depends on the level of customer service. Some will replace the bulb or give credit without even seeing a photo. White Flower Farm is good about this. Some demand you grow out the bulb. Their attitude is, "As long as you get a first bloom, why are you complaining?" I have, in the past, actually peeled and cut out the rotted area completely down to healthy tissue, and literally dusted with cinnamon or sulfur. Flame the knife, before and after, you operate. You can sometimes get away with that if it's not more than 30% into the bulb. The bulb will scar over the cut. That is all based on how far in the rot has penetrated and whether it has gotten into the basal plate.

similar to what i had with my bulb

https://garden.org/thread/go/9...

since then, there are 2 leaves for now, growing very slowly

here bloom is very unpredictable, you cannot force it to bloom, it usually will bloom at February -March , if bloom at all. It is depending at all on the winter condition, how cold it is , how many days in Dec-Jan there is enough heat and sun, and 2000 other criteria. This year winter is very cold (in local standard) and a lot of rain. Everything is grow very slow, if at all. A lot of bulbs lost a lot of leaves, they will come back at summer.
Also all local amaryllis cannot bloom from bulb, what ever size it is. They first release a lot of leaves, grow them , grow a lot of roots as well and maybe !! later it will bloom.

I think I would contact the seller and send them a photo. If they are reputable, they will probably send you a replacement, and probable also let you keep the damaged bulb.
If it were me, I would try to to pull off the outer layer of the bulb and see if the next layer is good. If that layer is too bad, I would take a sterile knife and cut out the bad part - maybe dab the area with a water/peroxide mix. Then let the bulb dry out out for few days. Then coat it with cinnamon and replant it. Is that a bulbette I see? If so, it will probably continue to grow. Keep us updated - will be very interested in seeing how it does - I would not give up on it yet.

I emailed the seller with a picture of the bulb and asked for a replacement bulb either immediately or next year, if the bulb failed. I probably should've just asked for a replacement or refund out right! If they are difficult or not understanding, then I will stop being their customer.

I will assess it again today and may peel away that outer layer. But I've never been successful with bulb operations, and so am hesitant to cut away at anything. We'll see. Meanwhile, I'm crossing my fingers that it'll survive.

Ron, I love hearing about the experience of growers in other places. It's interesting that amaryllises (hippeastra?!) perform like that for you. For me the bud always comes first. I actually prefer to see some leaves along with the incredible blooms. It makes for a nicer presentation I think.

Tienito, I believe we a local strains here for a lot of bulb flowers, due to the local climate. E.g. I have a local Narcissus , and Narcissus that I bought in Europe. I planed both of them this winter in similar soil. Local one has already 6-7 inches leaves, Europe one has barely a inch long. Same all other plants. Only Pancratium maritimum will bloom first (before the rain ,in the end of the summer without any leaves) , and then in winter it will grow green leaves.

At least amaryllis grows all year around, and increase size of the bulb very quickly. It can grow from miniature bulb of about an inch in diameter to big bulb , 2 inches in diameter in one summer year (even less, mine grown from April to September). I heard that Beladona blooming here in the end of the summer, I will check it out,

Ron, that's pretty amazing. From one to two inches diameter in one growing season is far better than what is possible here. Our growing season is so short that I'm always trying to eke out growing time before and after cold temps. It's hard to think that nice weather is still a good four months away. That's why I love amaryllises - they keep me occupied this time of the year, and after they've finished blooming, spring is just about on the way.

Thank you for your insight. I agree that its chances are slim. And as mentioned, I've had pretty bad luck with ailing bulbs. Great idea, offering to return the bulb to the seller.

Update: The company was super nice and understanding. They're sending me a replacement. I will definitely do business with them again, as they have varieties that I'm looking for and their service is prompt.

bsharf said:That looks like damage from when it was harvested. If the rot hasn't reached the embryo scapes, you will get the first blooming, but that looks like a 50/50 chance of surviving a year. It is always a good idea to offer to return the bulb to the "retailer".

Plant your damage bulb as shallow as possible in the ground. also do not watering from the top, only from the bottom plate, and after 1h please remove the water excess.