When I first starting collecting Amaryllis in 2003, the information I read said to provide no water during the dormancy period, until just before you want them to break dormancy.

I would force the bulbs during the holiday season when I first obtained the bulbs, than keep them going during the warm season, reenter dormancy than bring them out in the spring, which in MN can be anywhere from early April to early June, typically early May and have them bloom in late spring to early summer

I noticed that there was always a lot of shrinkage and flower production seemed to decrease.
Surly in their natural habitat they must get some moisture, though very little during the dormant period, so I would provide just a very small amount of water to the containers, approx every 4-6 weeks during the dormant period, the flower production seemed to be much better and the bulbs appeared much more robust when I put them out the previous spring after I had withheld moisture during the dormant period.
Additionally I traveled to Amsterdam a lot, I asked one of the plantsman in the floating market where I got most of my Amaryllis about supplying moisture during the dormant period, he said "of course"

This past fall, I was gone a lot and did not supply the supplemental moisture during the dormancy period. The bulbs were much smaller, flower production was way down from my past years, this was on all of the 32 plants.

Going back to giving moisture during dormancy.

You make a good point. Mine are planted outside and of course they get a periodic sprinkling when it rains in the winter. But the soil is not staying wet constantly. In forced dormancy, indoors, the bulbs will shrink if they are too dry. On the reverse side, if the bulb is kept too wet during dormancy, especially if there is not good air circulation, the bulb will rot. So it's a balancing act between shrinking and rotting. I guess that everyone has to find the right conditions for their own bulbs.

Mine are outside as welll, most years there is no dormancy at all, they stay green all year round.only last winter i had 2 weeks dormancy on some plants,but i continued watering as usual.

But here maybe we have a special local strain

I still water those outside, dormant or not. And in winter it is all in the hands of Mother Nature.
I have one experiment grown in a glass container, so it will hold the moisture even in dormancy, but I really delay adding water till I see the gel beads much more deflated, so pretty much it still gets some moisture.

Double Dream Comparison, top photo 2018 where it received small amount of water during dormancy.
bottom photo 2019 where it received no water during dormancy





Gervase Comparison top photo 2018 where it received small amounts of water during dormancy.
bottom photo 2019 where it received no water during dormancy

sangel said:Mine are outside as welll, most years there is no dormancy at all, they stay green all year round.only last winter i had 2 weeks dormancy on some plants,but i continued watering as usual.

But here maybe we have a special local strain

That was my thought of...... if they were planted out door they would be moist. I have never did the dormant dark process. They usually bloom Feb - May depending on age. I take them out in the summer and give them lots of sun and fertilizer.

When I bring them in for the winter one or two leaves may die down but they are never leafless,

If plants do not want to go dormant, there is no need to force it to do it. I believe that it is depending were original mother bulb is coming from (if it come from a cold country, it will be dormant in winter, if it come from a tropic country/state, it will stay green all winter, as long as you bring it indoors, kep temperature above 50 F and water it as needed.

I also found that repotting into a new soil every 3-4 years keep bulbs healthy, with good growth and no rotting. It is also not a good idea to grow bulb in overcrowded pot. If you grow them in a plastic pot, and see that pot start to deform, it is a good time for repot.

https://www.hortmag.com/weekly...


Q&A: What's the best way to care for the amaryllis bulb I received as a gift?

Categories: Q&A, Weekly Tips | Tags: Q&A
December 11, 2009 | mgodfrey
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Few plants can equal these bulbs for the splash of color they produce, or are as easy to rebloom. Interestingly, the standard technique of allowing the bulbs to grow on through the summer and then drying them off until winter does not usually produce the best floral display. Much better results can be obtained by potting on the bulb as the roots grow and keeping the plants in active growth as long as possible.

Pot up the dormant bulbs in a light, humus-rich potting mix in a pot about two inches wider than the diameter of the bulb. Be careful not to bury the "neck" of the bulb; the top third of the bulb should remain above the soil. Keep the soil moist but not wet, and don't let the temperature fall much below 65 degrees F. When growth has begun and the pot has filled with roots, transfer the bulb to a pot four inches wider than the diameter of the bulb. (Do not transplant the bulb while it is flowering, however.) Feed every two weeks with a liquid fertilizer at one-half the recommended strength. When the new pot is filled with roots, move the bulb to yet a third container at least 11 to 12 inches in diameter. As soon as the weather has warmed, set the pot outside in full sun for the summer. Never allow the soil to dry out, and continue fertilizing until the middle or end of August. The plants may be left outside until frost threatens; at that point, move them to a sunny window. By this point, the plant will probably look a bit tattered; the leaves may die off by late December. NEVERTHELESS, DO NOT LET THE PLANTS DRY OUT.. In late January the flower spikes will begin to appear.

Vigorously growing bulbs will produce offshoots that can be detached and potted up; these will take at least two years to reach flowering size.

Remember: for the bulb to produce multiple flower stalks, it must be encouraged to produce as many leaves as possible. In order to put on a spectacular display, the bulb must produce an abundance of food—a process that requires full sun, regular feeding, ample root room and adequate moisture.

Thanks, RJ. Very timely because 'somehow' a few of mine fell and now need to be repotted. And while I have a gazillion clay and plastic pots, none seem to be the right size.

Have pots that are the right width but not deep enough for the roots.
Aargghh.

@tx_flower_child

I had grown amaryllis in shallow pots as well, it is not idealistic, but with enough nutrients it is growing

sangel said:

I had grown amaryllis in shallow pots as well, it is not idealistic, but with enough nutrients it is growing

Good to know. Here's my concern about doing that — having roots wrapping around inside the pot rather than growing downwards like they would if planted either in a deeper container or in the ground. I always think I'm suffocating a plant, whatever kind of plant. Maybe I worry too much.

I spent much of yesterday afternoon attempting to repot plants. Haven't finished but at least got some done. But I was mostly working with plants other than amaryllis. The amaryllis are on my schedule for today.

tx_flower_child said:

Good to know. Here's my concern about doing that — having roots wrapping around inside the pot rather than growing downwards like they would if planted either in a deeper container or in the ground. I always think I'm suffocating a plant, whatever kind of plant. Maybe I worry too much.

I spent much of yesterday afternoon attempting to repot plants. Haven't finished but at least got some done. But I was mostly working with plants other than amaryllis. The amaryllis are on my schedule for today.

do not worry, I did it already. Anyway if some roots got broken, they will grow back again, amaryllis do it very fast.

Is it good, bad or doesn't matter whether to remove all or some of the dried 'skin' (like on an onion)?

@tx_flower_child

as long as it not rotten, it does not mater

I peal off the outermost dried layer. Primarily to check for soft, possibly early rot issues, that may need treatment. Within a few weeks, in soil, the outermost layer is dried out and brown again. Otherwise, it is a matter of preference about pealing off the dried layer.

@tx_flower_child -- if the dried skin is loose, I peel it off - to eliminate possible safe harbor for bugs. Also to check to be sure there is no fungus. If the dried skin is still firmly attached, I leave it be - to help protect the bulb.