Post a reply

Image
Aug 24, 2020 4:02 PM CST
Central Florida (Zone 10a)
Adeniums Bookworm Cactus and Succulents Composter Master Gardener: Florida Orchids
I grow outside in sunny, humid central Florida where three day rains in winter are common enough to make cactus and succulent growing difficult. As you might guess, a dormant plant in a soggy mix is a recipe for disaster. The mix I use for most succulents is 20% finished compost, 20% coconut coir and 60% perlite (pumice is difficult to find here and too expensive for the volume of plants). I add a balanced time release with minors and top dress twice annually between re-potting. Because perlite migrates I top dress plants with crushed granite from a terrazzo installer. I used to use chicken grit until I found the terrazzo was less expensive. This mix works well for most other plants as well as its only drawback is the extra time I spend watering due to how fast it drains. (I actually like watering because it makes me look at each plant which helps with early detection of cultural issues) For cactus and other particularly dry growers I increase the perlite to as much as 80%.
Be kind, we all struggle sometimes.
Image
Aug 24, 2020 6:26 PM CST
Name: William Groth
Houston, TX zone 9a
Adeniums Cactus and Succulents Garden Photography Cat Lover Ferns Peppers
Roses Sedums Sempervivums
Well my main concern for this next winter is to find nice hardy succulents so that when I put them in the greenhouse to keep them relatively dry
I won't have to worry about freezing temperatures. The greenhouse is a small one and it is not heated so I will have to deal with whatever the
temperature is??
Don't judge each day by the harvest you reap, but by the seeds that you plant.
Robert Louis Stevenson
Image
Aug 24, 2020 9:02 PM CST
Moderator
Name: Thijs van Soest
Tempe, AZ (Zone 9b)
Region: Arizona Enjoys or suffers hot summers Cactus and Succulents Xeriscape Adeniums Hybridizer
Plant Identifier Plant and/or Seed Trader Cat Lover Dog Lover Lover of wildlife (Black bear badge) Lover of wildlife (Raccoon badge)
If your green house is small, but pretty tight, and you have space for a bucket or tub of water you can get a setup going described here:

https://homeguides.sfgate.com/...

either get black tubs or use black plastic to cover whatever you are using. Make sure they are in the sun during the day and then near the plants that need it most at night. If your green house is not too crazy large this is not that hard to accomplish...
It is what it is!
Avatar for roesmill
Aug 29, 2020 1:46 PM CST
David, Panama, Central America
I have heard that rice hulls are a suitable substitute for perlite, which I can no longer find. Is this true, and what is the general opinion of the group on rice hulls? (The beige ones that are removed from rice in the mills and are readily available here in Panama.)
Image
Sep 3, 2020 9:39 AM CST
Name: Daisy I
Reno, Nv (Zone 6b)
Not all who wander are lost
Garden Sages Plant Identifier
We use rice hulls mixed into the garden to help retain moisture in our sandy soil. I don't think it would make a good perlite substitute because of the moisture retentiveness but also because it will decompose. If you can't find pumice, you would be better off with coarse sand (aquarium gravel size), chicken grit (not the one made from ground oyster shells), small gravel (like pea gravel)... The whole idea is to add some air space within the soil.
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and proclaiming...."WOW What a Ride!!" -Mark Frost

President: Orchid Society of Northern Nevada
Webmaster: osnnv.org
Image
Sep 3, 2020 10:40 AM CST
Name: tarev
San Joaquin County, CA (Zone 9b)
Give PEACE a chance!
Adeniums Cat Lover Garden Photography Region: California Houseplants Plays in the sandbox
Orchids Plant Lover: Loves 'em all! Composter Cactus and Succulents Dragonflies Hummingbirder
roesmill said:I have heard that rice hulls are a suitable substitute for perlite, which I can no longer find. Is this true, and what is the general opinion of the group on rice hulls? (The beige ones that are removed from rice in the mills and are readily available here in Panama.)


Yes that is often used in my homeland. But it is more appropriate for tropical plant use, since it helps retain moisture in the media. So it may not be appropriate to use for more desert-like succulents. Better to use perlite or pumice for your succulents.
Avatar for Charlinex
Sep 3, 2020 11:56 AM CST
Name: Charline
Toronto (Zone 5b)
I read that sand is beneficial to root growth, but at what size? Does anyone have experience?
Image
Sep 3, 2020 1:03 PM CST
Name: Daisy I
Reno, Nv (Zone 6b)
Not all who wander are lost
Garden Sages Plant Identifier
The idea of adding any grit to potting mix is to cause little air pockets in the soil. Its not the sand that's beneficial to root growth, its the air pockets. If the 'sand' is too fine, it clogs the air spaces. I wouldn't use anything that wasn't good and course.
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and proclaiming...."WOW What a Ride!!" -Mark Frost

President: Orchid Society of Northern Nevada
Webmaster: osnnv.org
Avatar for Charlinex
Sep 3, 2020 3:47 PM CST
Name: Charline
Toronto (Zone 5b)
Thank you, Daisy. What is the minimal size of the sand?
Image
Sep 3, 2020 4:20 PM CST
Moderator
Name: Baja
Baja California (Zone 11b)
Cactus and Succulents Seed Starter Xeriscape Container Gardener Hummingbirder Native Plants and Wildflowers
Garden Photography Region: Mexico Plant Identifier Forum moderator Plant Database Moderator Garden Ideas: Level 2
I would pass it over a 1/10" filter (approx window screen) and discard the fines.
Avatar for Charlinex
Sep 3, 2020 4:48 PM CST
Name: Charline
Toronto (Zone 5b)
Baja, I'd give it a try some day. Thanks! Thank You!
Image
Sep 3, 2020 4:52 PM CST
Moderator
Name: Baja
Baja California (Zone 11b)
Cactus and Succulents Seed Starter Xeriscape Container Gardener Hummingbirder Native Plants and Wildflowers
Garden Photography Region: Mexico Plant Identifier Forum moderator Plant Database Moderator Garden Ideas: Level 2
Coarse sand for construction should work great if you screen it. Thumbs up
Avatar for FATPLANT1NY
Sep 19, 2020 7:50 AM CST
Name: Frank [email protected]
Bronx, NYC (Zone 7b)
New to the forum, and first posting.

Not unfamiliar with problems associated with growing succulents, caudex plants, cactus, etc. with inappropriate mixes. I've had many failures, and killed off some of the best plants money can buy. Now, I mainly grow plants that form a water-storing caudex, aka "Fat-Plants". I'm too old and impatient to wet-nurse finicky plants, like orchids, or, attention-craving bonsai, etc.

I live in NYC, Zone-7b. The growing season here, is very short, usually rainy, and can be dark, steamy and cloudy. It sucks. It's not like any desert, so culture must be spot on, or stressed plants will die. My substitute "desert" is my back deck, that's exposed to full-sun. It can become broiling hot, and containers can cook roots, quickly. All my plastic containers are painted white to help reflect some heat. Effective? Who knows? Just read thru all the discussions about everyone's favorite growing mixes, but not one mention about eliminating "Perched Water Table".... Interesting. My triumphs began when I read and understood the concept behind eliminating the dreaded perched water table in containerized plants.

Al's famous quick-draining, gritty mix.... eliminates the possibility of roots soaking in stagnant, fetid, moisture. I have used it for years. The requisite Pine Bark Fines can be a PITA to find, so I use "Repti-Bark" purchased at the major pet supply stores. It's expensive, but so are some of my plants. I also use Aquarium grit, and use either TURFACE-MVP of NAPA AUTO, Oil Dry/Sweeping Compound PN 8822 in place of TURFACE. Mix equal parts, and stick your plants into this stuff. I also use a handful of either crushed oyster shells, or, some ground egg shells + some activated bone-charcoal pellets. Done. I water infrequently with "Foliage Pro 9-3-6". My plants thrive. The best part about the gritty mix: when the time comes, you can easily unplug your plants from this always-crumbly gritty mix, for necessary re-potting into larger containers, with very little set-back. Caudex plants seem to love it. Adeniums will grow well in this medium, but my too-quick-to-come, cooler night temps, will easily throw these PITA plants into dormancy. Adenium are problematic, for me. Adeniums are NOT my favorite fat plants, not at all. Bursera, Operculicarya, Uncarina, Jatropha...all thrive. Uncarina is almost always in blossom, and, for weeks. Best successes for me: Bursera fagaroides, Uncarina peltata, and Operculicarya pachypus. Trunks on all, thickening nicely, and plenty of new growth. Adenium and Pachycormus discolor, (in my growing conditions), are the real losers. Both plants put out hardly any new growth, and Adenium will rot in a NY second. (Personally, I think Adeniums are imported into this country with undetected, mosaic virus which weakens these plants and only shows up when plants push out the tell-tale, mal-formed leaves). I view Adenium as a transient, very temporary plant, IN MY GROWING CLIMATE. Their blossoms are nice, anyway.

Back to the gritty mix....so water just pours thru Al's mix, and there's no annoying Perlite kernels floating to the top of the mix. Fungus Gnats are usually no longer a problem either....and the slimy moss, that can cover overly wet mediums, is gone too. The pebbly mix stays clean and fresh.

I'm in my 8th year of growing my caudex-forming plants in Al's mix, and I've had no real problems. During the winter months, the Bursera, Operculicarya, Uncarina, and Adenium all lose their leaves, and get only an occasional misting. The dormant plants and the surface of the growing medium get an occasional sprinkle -just to keep the plants hydrated. Dormancy period lasts longer than my growing season. By late-March the Bursera gets ready for pushing out a new set of leaves, followed by the Operc. I take my cues from the plants, and I start lightly watering when plants start to break buds. When the back deck gets hot, the plants go out. When the Uncarina starts pushing new growth.... it grows very fast, even to the point of cutting it back just to keep it in shape.

I try to give my plants as much sunlight as possible during dormancy. All these plants have photosynthetic branches and mainstems, including the greenish caudex. They continue to use nutrients and make food- even when there are no leaves on their branches. Amazing.

New York City might be a lot of things, and it sure ain't a hot, dry desert. But, I enjoy the challenges and growing caudex-forming plants, which can be very forgiving. I only wish I new that these fat plants existed years ago, back when I first started growing plants. I certainly would've had more triumphs, rather than expensive failures.

Thanks for the interest.
Image
Oct 6, 2020 3:39 AM CST
Name: Alicia
Ennis, TX (Zone 8a)
Region: Texas Dog Lover
VERY informative thread......I love it! I've been an avid houseplant parent for a couple years now, and am wanting to really try my hand at finding my perfect potting medium. I have quite a few cacti/succulents that actually seem to be doing fine for me, so until I need to repot them due to other reasons I will more than likely keep them as they are. I ADORE hoyas and most of mine actually do pretty well in the typical bagged succulent "soil" mixed with some perlite. What do you guys find to be the best DIY mix for hoyas? Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated! Thank You!
Image
Oct 6, 2020 2:00 PM CST
Name: Daisy I
Reno, Nv (Zone 6b)
Not all who wander are lost
Garden Sages Plant Identifier
Hi Alicia,

Please join us over in the Hoya Forum.

https://garden.org/forums/view...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and proclaiming...."WOW What a Ride!!" -Mark Frost

President: Orchid Society of Northern Nevada
Webmaster: osnnv.org
Avatar for abteck
Nov 10, 2020 2:49 PM CST

How come my perlite is turning orange? Any ideas? This is happening in my other pots as well
Thumb of 2020-11-10/abteck/c386ba
Last edited by abteck Nov 10, 2020 2:53 PM Icon for preview
Image
Nov 10, 2020 5:44 PM CST
Moderator
Name: Thijs van Soest
Tempe, AZ (Zone 9b)
Region: Arizona Enjoys or suffers hot summers Cactus and Succulents Xeriscape Adeniums Hybridizer
Plant Identifier Plant and/or Seed Trader Cat Lover Dog Lover Lover of wildlife (Black bear badge) Lover of wildlife (Raccoon badge)
Welcome!

Is it rather wet and humid where you are at at the moment? It could be a fungus growing on it.
It is what it is!
Image
Dec 13, 2020 10:35 AM CST
Name: Jen
The Dry Side of Oregon (Zone 6b)
Native Plants and Wildflowers Seed Starter Cactus and Succulents Cut Flowers Dahlias Bulbs
Birds Bee Lover Hummingbirder Greenhouse Region: Oregon
I have several packets of prickly pear cactus seeds that I bought a few years ago. I'd like to see if they're viable.

1) I live in a place where they grow outdoors - could I try and direct sow them, and if so, do they require stratification (so I could put them out now in December)?

2) Are they pretty finicky to grow, so I should start them indoors instead? TIA!
"Gardening is cheaper than therapy - plus you get cucumbers."
Low-Water/High Desert Seeds
My Website
Image
Dec 13, 2020 2:06 PM CST
Name: William Groth
Houston, TX zone 9a
Adeniums Cactus and Succulents Garden Photography Cat Lover Ferns Peppers
Roses Sedums Sempervivums
SassyBluejay said:I have several packets of prickly pear cactus seeds that I bought a few years ago. I'd like to see if they're viable.

1) I live in a place where they grow outdoors - could I try and direct sow them, and if so, do they require stratification (so I could put them out now in December)?

2) Are they pretty finicky to grow, so I should start them indoors instead? TIA!


Well @SassyBluejay one of the places we were considering for retirement was Bend, OR but we have been reading about the increase in housing prices and that Oregon is a high cost area!
So now my better half is looking at New Mexico.

Anyway good luck on the cactus growing, I have been more into succulents and down here in
Houston, TX we can grow a lot of different plants with the zone 9a weather. We are currently
wondering about what the month of January and February will hold regarding cold weather.
Don't judge each day by the harvest you reap, but by the seeds that you plant.
Robert Louis Stevenson
Image
Dec 13, 2020 7:10 PM CST
Name: Jen
The Dry Side of Oregon (Zone 6b)
Native Plants and Wildflowers Seed Starter Cactus and Succulents Cut Flowers Dahlias Bulbs
Birds Bee Lover Hummingbirder Greenhouse Region: Oregon
@willinator What you're seeing is correct. Central Oregon's housing market is through the roof, and there is a tremendous limitation of housing. We are in the not-so-distant neighboring Crook County and pay a fraction of the taxes and prices for land/housing. Deschutes County is next level!

However, you get what you pay for! If you're into the outdoors and close proximity to mountain playgrounds, it could be worth the price. I put this on level with Jackson Hold, Boulder, Durango, and Flagstaff. Bend is a college town with a small-town feel but big city prices! Grin

Have you visited here before!?
"Gardening is cheaper than therapy - plus you get cucumbers."
Low-Water/High Desert Seeds
My Website

Only the members of the Members group may reply to this thread.
Member Login:

( No account? Join now! )

Today's site banner is by woofie and is called "Mixed Morning Glories"

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.