Hi everyone,

Novice gardener here I planted a variety of pepper plants (anaheim, habanero, serrano etc), and they all have this issue of leaves curling inward or sometimes outward. On top of that, it looks like more leaves are falling off. The pictures show some seedlings I planted as well as 2 mature plants

I've looked for pests and seen some whiteflies and tiny spider looking things. I have tried neem and a soap spray and fertilize every 2 weeks.

I think I was overwatering for a while (everyday). I bought a device which shows moisture levels - Should I not water unless this indicates dry towards the bottom of the pot?

Any ideas on what could be wrong? Thanks so much!

El Capitolio, EC Sport and EC Sport of Sport


Hibiscus storckii and Hibiscus Albo Lacinatus


Button Bush


Peacock Ginger


Crepe Myrtle


Ruellia nudiflora

I had the similar issue last year. Peppers kept loosing its flowers and fruits so I did not get much out of it. I suspected some kind of soil pathogens such as fungus since nothing else helped. I have treated the soil with fungicide this spring. Peppers are doing a lot better but occasionally I see leaves curl but I had lot of peppers so far this summer. Our texas climate hot and humid, perfect for fungus development. Some plants are very resistant to these pathogens some are not. Soil needs constant application to deter away pathogens.I will need to keep continue using organic bacteria based fungicides such as serenade, garden friendly fungicides.

I hate the notion of treating soil with fungicides if a fungus problem hasn't been verified. They certainly have their place in a gardener's arsenal of tools. I just always want to start with the least aggressive treatment available that proves effective...so start small and go big if necessary. Not preachy - everybody gets to choose how they garden!

I am making huge assumptions here because we haven't a full picture of the problem (either figuratively or literally) as the photos are too cropped - but it appears you are growing multiple peppers in something like a window box? Not much soil for roots to develop...and if they were filled with store-bought soil also less likely to have a soil-borne pathogen in year one.

They also appear possibly to be something like dark plastic? In Houston, in the sun, you could easily be frying the plants roots...if you suspect this might be the case insulate the 'pot' by wrapping it with something as simple as a few layers of canvas sacking.

Soil looks to be super saturated - but it also looks like you had just watered as there are droplets on the pot edge or support - are you checking to see if the plants need water before applying more? And of course watering deeply but less often is great...but only if you also have adequate drainage so I am assuming there is drainage?

Also, helpful if we knew more about their orientation; sun, etc...more info means better suggestions.

Consider taking pictures and a freshly removed leaf or two to your county extension office for help - they do great work (check online for schedule of when they offer ID and pest and disease assistance).

Just food for thought - good luck.

I think the problem is watering. Your plant needs more water.

JBarstool said:I hate the notion of treating soil with fungicides if a fungus problem hasn't been verified. They certainly have their place in a gardener's arsenal of tools. I just always want to start with the least aggressive treatment available that proves effective...so start small and go big if necessary. Not preachy - everybody gets to choose how they garden!

I am making huge assumptions here because we haven't a full picture of the problem (either figuratively or literally) as the photos are too cropped - but it appears you are growing multiple peppers in something like a window box? Not much soil for roots to develop...and if they were filled with store-bought soil also less likely to have a soil-borne pathogen in year one.

They also appear possibly to be something like dark plastic? In Houston, in the sun, you could easily be frying the plants roots...if you suspect this might be the case insulate the 'pot' by wrapping it with something as simple as a few layers of canvas sacking.

Soil looks to be super saturated - but it also looks like you had just watered as there are droplets on the pot edge or support - are you checking to see if the plants need water before applying more? And of course watering deeply but less often is great...but only if you also have adequate drainage so I am assuming there is drainage?

Also, helpful if we knew more about their orientation; sun, etc...more info means better suggestions.

Consider taking pictures and a freshly removed leaf or two to your county extension office for help - they do great work (check online for schedule of when they offer ID and pest and disease assistance).

Just food for thought - good luck.

Hi Jbar, I have attached some more pictures. I plan to leave 2 plants in the railing planter that you see attached to the balcony. The window planter on the ground has an oregano plant and the single pepper plant. I plan to move the pepper plant in its own small pot to a 2 gallon pot.

I am so confused on how often to water. I bought a water measuring device..but should I be measuring the top, middle or bottom of the pot for moisture levels?

Thanks!

amith_ram_22 said:


Hi Jbar, I have attached some more pictures. I plan to leave 2 plants in the railing planter that you see attached to the balcony. The window planter on the ground has an oregano plant and the single pepper plant. I plan to move the pepper plant in its own small pot to a 2 gallon pot.

I am so confused on how often to water. I bought a water measuring device..but should I be measuring the top, middle or bottom of the pot for moisture levels?

Thanks!

Thank you for the clarifications - and the helpful pictures.
Personally - I think you should use your index finger stuck in to the soil to your second digit...if it is damp at your fingertip don't water if it is dry(ish) do. There is no way to say water every 1.87 days...you'll get used to what properly moist soil feels like. Time between waterings will vary based on heat, light, wind (big time!) but I think it has become my mantra here; water deeply but less frequently.

The potted plant - is it also outdoors? Peppers want a lot of light. ...and its pot is pretty darn small - but I assume that that is the one you mean to transplant to a larger pot (good plan). These 'aint african violets for goodness sake.

Regardless, you'll have a good time learning and may get a few peppers thrown in for the experience!

Sorry, one more question since you all mentioned fungus infection. I started noticing that some of the leaves on my pepper plants (in both planters) have a dark discoloration and eventually fall off. I know I have overwatered + possibly over fertilized and am in the process of letting the soil dry out.

Fertilizer is just the usual Miracle-Gro cheapo stuff. I am shopping for something organic and better.

What are you all's thoughts? Thank you again!!

Late to the party. Sorry. 5 gallon buckets minimum for peppers in Houston. Bagged so called soil from HD and L's isn't dirt, it is sawdust in varying stages of shred. Don't use potting soil for containers down here either, humidity and moisture retention isn't plant friendly. Curled leaves is 'normally' insects nibbling before leaves are leaves and won't be an issue for the fruits. Those leaves look horrible. Miracle Gro is mostly epsom salts, I like GardenTone, but treat soil with before transplant and LOOK at the leaves. Peppers don't like N nitrogen and dark green leaves is nitrogen. You CAN use a bloom booster (Scotts or MG) if bloom set is failing- 2 weeks apart. I know I have made a note 'to self' my peppers go in soil 24" deep if I want them to avoid our heat.
I am researching our bagged soil resources for my raised beds, have a mix of a bunch of bagged soils starting to finally age properly. Cannot grow in ground at all in my fine silt sand- nematodes destroy what the moles don't.

Kat,
I had problems with nematodes in the past and found a organic solution last year. I had been growing large amount of thyme in pots last a few years. I collected all the leaves of thyme and grind them all using blender. I diluted with water, and spread over the soil and throw all grinds in the soil. No more nematodes this year however moles are still a problem and no solutions yet.

My raised beds are built atop metal fabric. I have the oregano in ground, but dug a pit 12" down and lined it with metal fabric also. For moles you need to block them 8" deep, and at least 4" up. The raised beds are basically sleeves and halfway through they have a side to side bar to keep sides from bowing out. I can't get enough compost into this silt sand to do any good- it is gone in 6 mo.

@Kittriana. What type of metal fabric do you use for the base of your raised beds?

Rabbit cage type stuff, 3/8" to 1/2" I think- comes in rolls at HD that can be 25' or 10' length, 48" or 36" and sometimes 24" width. Then I get my tinsnips out and go snip, snip, snip to fit what I need.