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Avatar for Gkrauss517
Aug 13, 2020 11:38 PM CST
Thread OP
Mount Vernon, New York (Zone 7
Hello All,

I would like to build a proper floor for my greenhouse. It is an 8x12 Grandio Ascent that I have built directly into the earth and it currently only has topsoil as a floor. It has a steel foundation with 12 concrete footers buried in the ground. The best way to visualize this is for me to post the instructions. Here is the link:

https://grandiogreenhouses.com...

Attached is also one photo of the interior and one photo of the exterior of the base (Sorry it is dark):
The photo with the ruler is the exterior side of the base. The other photo is the interior.

I would like to add a floor that is aesthetic, has good drainage, is stable (my benches keep sinking into the ground and become tilted), and pleasant to walk on (even barefoot). I also want something that would minimize dust as the topsoil becomes very dusty on hot days and gets sucked into my space heater. It also tends to erode and leave gaps between the base and the ground. Ideally, I would also like something that keeps weeds out.

I have thought about using brick pavers but was told I would need to build a retaining wall under the metal base which would be difficult as the anchors are in the way. My budget is $600 max. What is my best choice of floor?

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Last edited by Gkrauss517 Aug 13, 2020 11:50 PM Icon for preview
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Aug 14, 2020 7:43 AM CST
Name: GERALD
Lockhart, Texas (Zone 8b)
Greenhouse Hydroponics Region: Texas
I don't understand the need for a retaining wall. I'm about to add a floor to mine (as soon as it's less than 101F every day). I'm putting down leveling sand and using attractive 12" concrete block.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Pa...

I've done this in another outbuilding, and it's never admitted weeds and grass and drains fine. They will just be carried to the edge of the floor area. I wouldn't worry about going under the wall. You may well have a gap between the last whole block and the wall, but you can either break blocks to fit or just pour dry concrete into the space and soak it thoroughly to set it. The main thing is being meticulous from the start of leveling with sand.

I also once did a very attractive stone look floor at almost no cost using broken concrete sidewalk slab. Found a project where they were breaking up the sidewalk, and they were very happy for me to take the pieces away. Good bit of labor, of course, but it really looked good with dry concrete poured and set in the gaps.

It is surprising how you can almost always reach to the pile and find a piece that fits closely into any next space. There was actually only small gaps to fill. It looks like a floor of irregular limestone slabs.
Avatar for BruceM2
Aug 15, 2020 10:30 AM CST

Pavers over tamped wet sand, over (cheapest) geotextile cloth seems suitable. The cloth will allow drainage but reduce soil dust creep and will stop weeds. You only need enough sand to level accurately. Like every other job, outcome quality is directly proportional to prep work. As in tile setting, running bond is preferred, as paver size variation is averaged out and thus setting is much faster. Running bond is especially helpful if setting the pavers tight.

Just tamping and filling the outer wall border should be sufficient, adding bricks or pavers around the sill will help deter rodents and erosion.
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Aug 15, 2020 10:56 AM CST
Name: Karen
New Mexico (Zone 8a)
Region: New Mexico Region: Arizona Region: Ukraine Cactus and Succulents Plant Identifier Plays in the sandbox
Greenhouse Bromeliad Adeniums Morning Glories Avid Green Pages Reviewer Brugmansias
I have pavers in mine, and they drain fine and are easy to walk on, even barefoot! In summer I can cool it down a tiny bit by wetting the floor. Even with 3 vents, a solar fan and an electric fan, I still get a lot of summer heat build up. I can keep it down to 103 with everything open including a screen on the door window.
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Last edited by plantmanager Aug 15, 2020 5:51 PM Icon for preview
Avatar for albertvadas
Aug 31, 2021 1:14 PM CST

Should we all do this?
Avatar for karmahappytoes
Aug 31, 2021 1:31 PM CST
PNW/SW WA State (Zone 8b)
We put our kit greenhouse on 4 X 6 ' treated lumber and then we put down a layer of
sand and put in small gravel, which will make it easy is I have electrical issues as the
line that is just 4" onside the base.
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Aug 31, 2021 7:25 PM CST
Name: Karen
New Mexico (Zone 8a)
Region: New Mexico Region: Arizona Region: Ukraine Cactus and Succulents Plant Identifier Plays in the sandbox
Greenhouse Bromeliad Adeniums Morning Glories Avid Green Pages Reviewer Brugmansias
@albertvadas, Welcome! There are many different types of greenhouse flooring. They all work. It's just up to the owner to decide what is good for him.
Handcrafted Coastal Inspired Art SeaMosaics!
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Sep 1, 2021 11:30 AM CST
Name: Daisy I
Reno, Nv (Zone 6b)
Not all who wander are lost
Garden Sages Plant Identifier
The floor in my old greenhouse had a sand base, a layer of weed guard and pavers laid in an interesting pattern. It drained well and looked great.

My current greenhouse has a roughened concrete floor. To make this one work, I had to add drains. Personally, I liked the paver floor better.
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and proclaiming...."WOW What a Ride!!" -Mark Frost

President: Orchid Society of Northern Nevada
Webmaster: osnnv.org
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