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Sep 21, 2020 9:44 AM CST
Thread OP

Hi all, I am a new member. I recently purchased a Japanese Maple Katsura from my local nursery... it is roughly 6.5' tall and was planted in a 16" wood square planter. When removing from planter, the roots were all growing straight down the sides, which I assume is better than encircling roots. The bottom of the container was rotted and the roots were pushing through. I tried loosening the roots a bit before planting, but the root ball was pretty firm. The tree is planted on a bit of a slope... I have the back of the root ball about 1.5" above the grade and then had to build up a berm of about 3.5" in the front. I used all existing soil, and a bit of local topsoil/compost when re-planting. I dug the hole about 15 inches deep and nearly 32" wide. Drainage test showed that the hole emptied between 1 and 1.5" per hour. The issue I am seeing is that the top of the crown and some internal branching seems to be suffering a bit. Early color on the leaves, some dead leaves and also some twig dieback. Some of these symptoms were evident when planting, but they have progressed further in the last few days. Basically the top of the tree just looks a bit sickly compared to the rest of the tree. Should I be concerned? Transplant shock? I believe Katsura is a dense branching variety, maybe the internal branching issues are from crowding? I watered the tree in pretty well at planting and have watered consistently every day since then (though not to the same degree). I am in Zone 6a, St. Louis MO. The tree is planted on north facing wall of house... direct sun most of day, dappled shade for 3-4 hours at least. Sorry for the photo quality... morning sunlight was not helping. Thanks!

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Sep 21, 2020 10:53 AM CST
Name: Daisy I
Reno, Nv (Zone 6b)
Not all who wander are lost
Garden Sages Plant Identifier
Welcome!

I'm amazed its still green! That's a lot of root disturbance for a JM still in leaf. I would never have attempted it. If the soil drains that slowly, be careful of overwatering. The top of the rootball should be at least 2 - 3 inches above grade so pull the mulch back and expose the top of the rootball. Get rid of the little berm you built in front - JMs are happiest sitting above grade. Don't let any mulch touch the trunk.
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and proclaiming...."WOW What a Ride!!" -Mark Frost

President: Orchid Society of Northern Nevada
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Avatar for SSGWJL
Sep 21, 2020 11:44 AM CST
Thread OP

DaisyI said: Welcome!

I'm amazed its still green! That's a lot of root disturbance for a JM still in leaf. I would never have attempted it. If the soil drains that slowly, be careful of overwatering. The top of the rootball should be at least 2 - 3 inches above grade so pull the mulch back and expose the top of the rootball. Get rid of the little berm you built in front - JMs are happiest sitting above grade. Don't let any mulch touch the trunk.


Thanks for the reply. Admittedly I probably should have waited to plant it but at this point I don't want to disturb the tree further. At least the weather has been cool and is forecast to stay that way. Should I prune off the dead twig growth or just leave it for now? Thanks.
Avatar for CPPgardener
Sep 26, 2020 5:50 PM CST
Name: John
Pomona/Riverside CA (Zone 9a)
Just leave it for now. In the spring you can start trimming off the dead twigs and thinning it out a little, not lots just a little.
“That which is, is.That which happens, happens.” Douglas Adams
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