This article talked about the 'Disease Cycle'. Hope it helps.. If anyone understands this then, please explain it to me.

http://www.apsnet.org/edcenter...

Being fairly new to daylilies, and a northern garden - I have had rust for the past two years during late fall. I have acquired a lot of daylilies over the past several years, so I am not surprised to have it. Interestingly enough, the bed that had rust this past fall, had been established for a year - I did not notice rust in any other beds, even those with new acquisitions.

I don;t worry about rust, because I know it will be killed with my winter. Last fall I trimmed all of the daylilies in that rusty bed and put the leaves in my trash in a sealed bag.

This thread has taught me that I should document which daylilies get rust and which ones in a bed don't if I ever have rust again. I never thought of doing that, so I am glad I have read it. I noticed that although some of mine were coated, some weren't even touched with rust.

I also agree with others, everyone's microclimate is different, so a daylily in one garden may be susceptible, whereas in another garden it might not have problems. ~Jan

Hi, everyone,

Shirlee, these are excellent questions, but I am *not* an expert on rust! All I have been doing is summarizing what those who are far more learned than I am have written on the Daylily Rust Forum. (They make it relatively easy, because all of them have excellent writing skills. It just takes me a while to grasp the concepts, since I don’t have a background in botany, plant pathology, genetics, etc.) Your post really should be placed on Sue’s Rust Forum, which does have participants who have the knowledge to address your questions. Go for it! : )

Susan, the article (published in 2012 by Buck and Ono) is really little more than an update on daylily rust in North America, and provides an explanation of the rust cycle, and a history of it since its introduction here in 2000. You may find this fact sheet easier to follow: http://www.omafra.gov.on.ca/en...

The one notable aspect about the 2012 article is that it caused a stir on the Daylily Rust Forum, because a participant mistakenly thought that the following sentence proved that there are several strains or ‘races’ of rust in the U.S: “Differences between isolates of P. hemerocallidis in the ability to cause lesions on some cultivars of daylily suggest that genetic subdivisions termed “races” of P. hemerocallidis are present in the U.S.” Maybe in the near future the authors will actually provide proof – which I’m sure will explain some things, but raise even more questions than we have now. : )

Jan, it really would be great if you documented which of your daylilies get rust, and which don’t, because it’s useful information for others. It could be posted here, or better yet added to the Rust Survey - http://www.daylilyrust.org/Sur... - whenever that is accessible again in the future. For what it’s worth, when rust was introduced into my garden in the late summer/early fall of 2009, not a single new daylily had any sign of rust on its leaves – and I searched very carefully, since one came from the deep south. (I didn't at the time realize that it was best to cut off all green growth.) Instead, two established daylilies – planted in a bed, some 50 feet away (but, downwind, alas) from the newly potted daylilies – became covered with rust spores within 6 weeks or so. It wasn’t until the next spring that one of the new daylilies showed rust pustules, and then it spread to other daylilies, both established ones and new purchases.

All the best - Elizabete

Thanks Elizabete, that was much better. It also confirms the environmental thing that got me upset to begin with. I do have a lot of humidity and rain.
I am focusing on prevention right now, got the Bayer 3 n 1 and I am disposing of the very susceptible daylilies which I have purchased. Lucky for me the real susceptible ones were also the cheap ones,.. hummm.

I am also confused about the mixed information on PANDORA'S BOX, it was listed as very susceptible and also listed as moderately susceptible.(in the article) But in the database it is only 2.8 and that is Low susceptibility. I decided not to worry about it if they were low susceptibility. But several of the rust articles mentioned that very daylily as an example of a rust prone plant? I guess I will toss it, better to be safe.

Thanks for posting all the information Elizabete and others. What ever is happening with rust here, or the lack off, has been a blessing for myself. I still spray the same amount, and do rotate the chemicals, to stop spraying is not an option as I sell and ship.

Susan, I used to have Pandor's Box and I never saw rust on it (before I used to spray) or if it did have any it was so little I never saw it.

This is where the rating system can get confusing. Don't get me wrong I appreciate it being here and as Dave said in another thread "It seems that there is unlikely to be a consensus on this issue for the time being, but I believe having what we have is better than having nothing. The scores are a good starting place to assist you, and you can satisfy yourself to the accuracy of the scores by checking various other sources out there."

The rating only conveys what the ONE person who added it feels it should get. Since I have never seen rust on PB would it be possible for me to go in and edit the rating to say 1.1 and have it approved and then that downgrades the suseptibilty rating? If so then that only reflects my observation of it and not the previous person who rated it to begin with. Or once it has the rating does it not get edited if someone else has a different rating? Just thoughts



ANOTHER THOUGHT is

and this thought would really only be applicable to the ones that are bought in "big box stores" or general nurseries who buy from the same places as BBS. I think part of the problem with some getting rust and others not with the same cultivar is that so many of the "big box store" or just general plant nursery bought ones are possibly tissue cultured and since that's not always a good thing for daylilies it may make some more susceptible than other of same cultivar. This wouldn't pertain to the newer ones, but there are a whole lot of different older ones that can be bought at the BBS such as Pandora's Box. And we don't always know that we have purchased a BBS daylily when we have bought from someone because they may have gotten from someone else before they decided to sell it. A lot of us started out buying big box store daylilies because we didn't know better as newbies.:rolleyes:

SUSAN: I'm not saying that PB that you have is tissue cultured so please don't take it that way

These are just my IMHO thoughts

You are fine Michele, I am lucky because I work too much, so I never seem to shop at the big box stores, I send my husband.

I do not know if someone on LA has shopped in a big box store.. Before I got on LA everything was coming from reputable nurseries. I guess the only thing to do is trim & dip them all in the bleach solution. Hoping for the best!

Glad to hear about PB, love those little white flowers. Also, Joan Senior has been listed as susceptible and it has been in my yard for three years with no care of any kind.. It was a gift from Greatgardenplants.com.

I too am thankful for the database! And like you say, any information is better than none. I only get confused in the two's. I saw 2.5 is susceptible and 2.4 shows resistance. That is why I decided to ignore the two's. If something is a 4 or 5 then certainly I should remove it right? Can't remember off hand if I do or not...

I was reading a great article and there MIGHT be something new that kills rust! Yippee!!

[quote]
Here is where there appears to be a SIGNIFICANT breakthrough in the treatment of rust. There is a systemic fungicide called Cabrio (powder form) that is also available in liquid form (Headline) that appear to actually kill the rust in the tissue of the plant.
Also:
I have found regular Dawn Dishwashing soap to be an effective contact spray for active rust even though it is not a fungicide.
[quote]

http://www.lilyfarm.com/rust.h...

I use Headline and Cabrio as my main spray chemicals and have had great success with both.

We use Headline (as main chemical) also and I use Cabrio when I run out of Headline.

Bill Maryott uses Cabrio (and other stuff) also (scroll down toward bottom)
https://daylilygarden.net/cgi-...

Thanks for the information. Is Headline and Cabrio expensive? Where do you get it?

Headline is about $700 for 2.5 gallons and is only available around here at chemical companies, probably the same elsewhere.

Cabrio is available online at various places. Just google Cabrio fungicide. I paid around $180 for the 5 lb jug but the prices do fluctuate so what may be one price this week may be lower next week or the week after. It will last forever for smaller gardens (3 Tbs to 15 gallons is what I was told to use- dissolve in warm water first).
Try Amazon or EBay also.

Good grief!.

Holy Moley Mamma! I had no idea. Makes the rose fungicides look down right cheap......Maryl

These are the professionl products so the chemicals are in stronger doses than the stuff sold in garden centers.

You can get other stuff that may work for smaller gardens such as Spectracide Immunox (myclobutanil) or Ferti-loam systemic fungicide (Propiconazole). These were also suggested as working against rust: Bayer advance disease control (tebuconazole) and Ortho Rose Pride (triforine). These would be more economical for smaller gardens or someone who only gets the occassional breakout. But for the larger growers these would cost far more than the $700 for Headline.

I did buy some Bayer advance disease control the other day. So, I can use the Rose Pride also on daylilies? Should I just spray when I see some rust or spray every so often? The Bayer advance disease control is in a hose in sprayer, they were out of the other kind. I could still mix it myself and put it into a Garden Sprayer. Some of my daylilies have foliage right now, should I spray them now or wait till spring?
All the others I found on Amazon at competitive prices. The most expensive was 'Propiconazole Broad Spectrum Fungicide' 1 pint on sale for $38.89. The Spectracide 51011 Immunox Plus Insect and Disease Multi-Purpose, 16-Ounce Concentrate was $13.25 and the Fertilome Liquid Systemic Fungicide II was $21.90, and Ortho 0295160 Rose Pride Rose & Shrub Disease Control - Pint size for $14.49, these are all do-able so, I just put them on my wish list.. Also the Cabrio Fungicide - 5 Pounds @ $209.95 just in case!. I need to save up for that one but I am broke right now from buying so many daylilies!!!

Susan check Lowes and Home Depot for the price of the Spectracide Immunox, that's where I have bought it.

When to spray is really up to you; we spray preventively before outbreaks. Now if you do wait until you have an outbreak you would want to add a contact fungicide such as Daconil (available at Lowes or Home Depot), I have bought the concentrate ( I think it's a 16oz bottle).

If you plan to do the "new arrival" cleaning then you should be ok to not spray until you see it because you may not get it.

Thanks Tink! There are quite a few with foliage and I would like to spray them now with something. I suppose I could mix-up a bottle of the Bayer. Just a little PM would make me feel better for now then the NA cleaning, I hope I do ok.
Yes, If I can find the Spectracide at Lowes or Home Depot then it would probably be cheaper.

I know what you mean Susan, so go ahead and spray I used to be sooooooo worried about just the tiniest speck of rust, I'd see one speck and I'd be out there chopping foliage and spraying like a mad woman

From experience, I will say Cabrio EG is one of the best fungicides for daylily rust. It is the powder form of Headline, and of the Group 11, 'statins' the cheapest to come by and the easiest to use. During the growing season, I used it in conjunction with Nickel Plus, which is listed as a fertilizer but also works as a systemic fungicide. It does contain 5% nitrogen, so you want to use it during the spring. The efficacy of the fungicides are improved if you condition your bath to neutral pH and add a spreader sticker. To alternate fungicides, I preferred Bayleton 50, from Group 3. Both the above fungicides are systemic and effective killings spores as well.

I'd like to add that the best surfactant out there, and one which does as Ed suggests, adjusts the ph, is Indicate 5. I've been using it for a very long time and have never had any spray burn with it, something I can't say I'd never had before using Indicate 5. A teaspoon per gallon is enough for my water to acidify which makes it very economical to use. Here's a link: http://rosemania.com/shopsite_...
Maryl